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Light didnt go on
The light rocker switch wasnt working. I found the part on the web site. It was so easy. I used a screw driver to pop out the old one and pop the new one in. It took 5 min. Thanks!!!
Took lower back board off, took part off to expose it so I could see where it was leaking, got part number, ordered it. Shut off water to frig at wall shut off, unhooked both hoses and plug, hooked new part up, turned water back on. Watched couple days to make sure it wasn't leaking. Vacuumed out back good, which I was amazed didn't really need it, hooked part back in place, replaced back with screws.
Evaporator Fan Motor quit working; top shelves of freezer got too warm
After viewing online videos of the repair process, it was very easy to replace the evaporator fan motor - just remove the back panel of the freezer compartment for EASY access to the evaporator motor. I received the new motor a day earlier than I thought I would. I took 15 to 20 minutes to replace the old motor. The only problem was the wiring on the new motor was on the opposite side of the motor as compared with the old motor. I was able to rotate the new motor enough for the new wiring to connect. VERY HAPPY with the results. A word of caution: the motor mounting brackets are plastic - go easy when trying to remove the brackets.
The lights were out in the part of the refrigerator and freezer section of refrigerator.
I ussed meter to check the voltage levels and they were fine. I refrence a you video on the refrigerator and foud out that the lights are setup in series like christmas tree lights. If the freezer light is out it will affect the rest of the lights in the refrigerator. I removed the freezer light module and test the light by swapping it with a know working light. the freezer light was the culprit that took the lights out in the side panels and the left side of the refrigerator section. I replaced the freezer light and all the lights now work without issue.
One light and they all go out. So i used one fo lights
It was straight forward enough--removed six screws from the metal cooling coil shield at the back of the freezer compartment and removed the shield. That left the motor and its mounting exposed atop the coil. Removed the electrical leads and popped out the motor and fan. Then I replaced the leads on the new motor, reset it in the mounting and pushed the fan propeller from the old motor on the spindle of the new. Twenty minutes tops.
Originally I took the module off and found that a small plastic part had broken. Both pieces were still there, so I super glued them together and reassembled the unit. It worked great for a couple months. I realized it needed a more permanent fix, so I found the model # and looked up the part. That was very easy on your website. I ordered the part expecting it to take 4-7 days. It was at my house in two days! 15 minutes later I was makin' ice, and makin' my wife happy. Thank you for an all around great experience. I'll definitely buy from you again.
The icemaker would not produce ice because the motor that pushed the cubes out had failed. The original icemaker failed in this way and we had the icemaker replaced by Sears Service for about $200. The second icemaker failed for the same reason after 18 months. I decided to do the repair myself t
Open the refirigerator door and push and hold the On/Off button at the top to turn off internal power. Open the freezer door and move the icemaker switch on the right side freezer wall to "off".
To get access to the icemaker, first remove a hinged plastic door that mounts to the ceiling of the freezer compartment by two hex screws. Remove the screws and the door so you can work with the icemaker without interference.
The icemaker assembly will slide out once the wireharness has been disconnected. To disconnet the wire harness, a while plastic shield has to be removed from the right side of the icemaker, just behind the water inlet. Locate a hex screw on the bottom right rear of the icemaker and remove it with a socket wrench. Then the plastic cover can be pulled off.
Slide the icemaker out enough so you can get your fingers on the plug connector. It takes some effort to pull the plug connectors apart. Once unplugged the whole icemaker assembly can be removed.
The motor module is located on the left side and is protected by a white cover. This cover is not attached so it can be pulled off to reveal the motor module.
Remove 3 screws from the outside of the motor module and the module can be pulled out of the housing. Insert the new motor module. The module turns the shaft of the ice srapper arm. the shaft has a D shape which mates with the hole in the motor module so you may have to roatate the scrapper arm until the shaft shape matches up with the hole shape in the motor module.
Once the motor module is seated, replace the 3 screws and push the white cover back on.
Position the icemaker so you can reconnect the wireharness plug connectors. Once connected you can push the icemaker asembly back into the grooves of shelf rail. Reattach the while protector shield which covers up the wire harness plugs.
Open the refirigerator door and push and hold the power button to turn internal power back on. Move the icemaker switch on the right wall of the freezer to the "on" position and close the door.
The icemaker should start making ice within 2 hours.
Emptied the ice holder, then removed the two screws located in the bottom of the ice holder. they were holding the metal cover in place, once removed I was able to remove the entire rotating ice prongs which moved the ice into the chute. I had to do this because the screw that held the coupling on could not be removed (too tight) Once the entire rotating device was removed I could easily remove the screw and replace the entire assembly.
I pulled the wiring harness off the bad motor, removed the fan blades (it was just a press fit and can be pulled off by hand), took out the three screws. The fan on the replacement motor had to be installed out of the fridge. I wiggled the new motor into place and installed the three screws. I cut the wiring harness off the fridge side and cut back the insulation. Using wire nuts I reconnected the wiring. I plugged the fridge back in and it worked like a champ. The repair went fairly easy. The motor was a bit difficult to get into tight space with my big hands. The wiring harness on the fridge side had to be cut and wire nuts used to reconnect the wiring to the new motor but it was pretty straight forward. Over all the repair was easy except for being in a tight spot. I recommend trying to fix it yourself, you may supprise yourself and save some serious bucks on labor cost to boot.
