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Started making loud screeching noise(bad Bearing)
Turned water off,tilted unit forward,removed lower rear cover,removed belt,laid towels around ,removed inlet hose and exit hose off pump,removed 3 screws holding pump,removed pump and installed new one,reversed order of disassemble, has been running great ever since.
Washer was shaking/thumping during the spin cycle for even the lightest loads. Previously changed the suspension springs, and the problem was not resolved.
I was able to locate the service manual for this washing machine online and download the PDF for free. Getting this will provide dis-assembly instructions and photos.
Sorta like requiring that you disassemble an engine in order to change the oil filter. Engineering suggestion here for any Maytag folks cruising the site. Mount the snubber ring with it's own clamping ring so that you can change it (snubber) without removing the agitator & spinner basket from the tub. Think something like this... Remove suspension springs, remove hoses, flip entire assy. upside down, then replace snubber ring without any further dis-assembly.
I followed the service manual's recommended approach, here are the basic steps:
1) Open the small back cover and detach the wash drum's drain hose at the waste pump, and while you've got back of the unit visible, tip forward and unhook the drive belt from the motor, pump and agitator.
2) Use a spatula or putty knife on the front seam between the lid and the lower body to unlock the spring latches which keep the top on. Flip the top up and back to get into the basket area. Take off the front cover so you can see the wash drum.
3) Remove the top cap/splash guard around the wash drum by pressing the cap/splash guard down while unhooking the little ears.
4) Remove the fabric softener cap from the center of the agitator and remove the bolt that's down the center of the agitator. This will require a socket. Remove agitator and plastic skirt that goes around the bottom of the agitator.
5) Remove the plastic sealing nut. This nut has a number of small plastic points on it and I broke a number of them off with the channel-locks while removing this. You may need to order a spare.
6) Remove the washing drum.
7) Use the spanner to remove the basket hub. I made a spanner out of some scrap steel parts I had and mounted using the screws I took out in step 5. If you have a spanner, you're set here.
8) Unhook the suspension springs and you should be able to lift the entire unit right out of the base.
9) Remove the cap on the bottom pulley and pull the E-clip that holds locks the pulley in place. Remove the pulley and plastic gears which mesh with the transmission shaft.
9) The snubber ring (the problem here) is located under the brake plate/ring on the very bottom. The brake assembly is preloaded with a spring inside, the manual says to use a special spring compressor while assembling. I didn't have any trouble holding it down while I had my 5 year-old daughter start the screws for me. Remove the 6 small screws around the brake ring and remove the shards of the worn out snubber. Replace with new snubber and start re-assembly.
Possible Shortcut:
After doing this, I see it may be possible to shortcut the factory directions. I can't guarantee that it will be successful, but after doing it I don't see any reason it wouldn't work. Following above numbers: 1) Do numbers 1-3 above.
2) Jump to step 8, remove the suspension springs and just get the entire drum removed and inverted. Don't mess with the legs, don't mess with the attachments or anything. You will only need to work on the pulley.
3) Remove the drive pulley and brake retaining plate. Shouldn't need to do anything with the inside of the washing drum here. No need to mess with the seals and/or plastic nuts.
discharge pulley assembly bearing going out on it.
Went to website, looked up make and model, looked at photo's discription, studied it, and then went in and removed front panel, turned off water, removed clamps holding hoses too dishcharge pump, mopped up water, and then just reinstalled new piece, the way the old came out, re attached belt to pulley assembly, turned water back on, and did a test for leakage and wala washer back in working order in less than an hour, and saved hundreds of dollars with out maytag repair man.
I followed the instructions that other posters suggested. The springs were the toughest part to remove and reinstall. Having my wife push the tub enabled me to use vice grips to get them back on. Read about the coins or washers to spread the springs too late... would have helped. Running a wash now and it's spinning great and no noise!
Washing machine began making a screeching noise but only during the spin cycle - when it was emptying the water from the tub. After a few uses the machine just stopped working.
The pump was easy enough to replace. Access panel in the back and 3 screws and it was off and back on in less than 20 minutes. It was putting the belt on that gave me the most trouble even though one of the pulleys moved to allow for easy replacement it did not move enough. It took me another 30 minutes just to get the belt on. I finally decided to place the belt on the two smaller pulleys and save the larger one for last and it went on with no trouble at all. Learn from my error =]
Reverse the process to install new pump Unplug the machine Place pad on floor to protect the machine from scratches Lay front of machine on floor Remove back cover (10 screws) Disconnect 2 hoses Remove 4 screws which secure pump to bottom frame Remove belt Remove pump
Reverse the process to install a new pump
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Removed front of washer following instructions on partselect.com (used putty knife to release catches). Removed hoses and belt from pump, then removed and replaced the pump. Reattaching the belt was the only awkward task.
I tilted the machine on it's back to remove the drive belt. You could feel the friction in the pump when you turned the pulley. I set the machine back down and removed the back cover (4 screws). I removed the two hoses with a pair of pliers. I used a small socket set to remove the three mounting screws. I ordered the pump. I reversed the process to put it back together. It took about 35 minutes to determine what the problem was and to remove the pump. It took about 20 minutes to put it back together.
Remove tub assembly per snubber replacement procedure. Place tub assembly on top of a milk crate open-side up. Support tub assembly on milk crate with 2x4's to protect pully from damage. Remove agitator from tub assembly. Press down on tub assembly cap, release tabs and remove tub assembly cap. Remove inner tub from tub assembly. Mark tub frame with location of outer tub air bell for ease of reassembly. Remove outer tub from transmission assembly. Replace inner tub gasket Replace outer tub gasket
Problem encountered was that the replacement tub had a defective air bell. The washer consequently did not detect fill level and subsequently overflowed flooding the laundry room. The bell looked ok visually. Blowing into the air tube while plugging the inside hole with a finger revealed a pinhole leak in one corner of the PP weld. PartSelect was prompt with replacement, but the job had to be redone in its entirety.
Always test the air bell before installing an outer tub.
Remove the metal plate in back of the washer that 3 screws. I use a vise-grips to remove the two clamps.One on other the tub side and the other the pump side. Pull the old hose off the tub side and the pump side.Use the old clamps to put the new hose on.
Removed back access cover and lift top cover looking for leak. Initially thought it may have been the pump housing. I filled some water into the tub and I flexed the hose between the tub and the pump and water sprayed out. It had cracked in about 3 small places (water is present in the hose anytime water is in the tub) Ordered and replaced hose. Also order drive belt and replaced as a preventive maintenance item.