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Bulb Replacement
I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.
Terminal block arc'ed because a wire had become loose.
Ordered and received the terminal block. Installed it along with a new 220V power cord and the appropriate insulator . Ensured the terminals were tight with a nut driver. Reinstalled cover. Then, using the control panel, I did a function check on all the heating elements, clock, oven light, to satisfy all operational requirements. All checked good! And, I was relieved that the control panel had not been shorted out as the terminal block was due to a loose connection. Easy fix.
removed back plate screw, removed two broiler screws. Disconnected wires in back plate by sliding them off of connectors. removed broiler coil and assembly. Using pliers, bent retaining hooks off of old coil, removed it and replaced it with the new coil. Reversed process.
The repair was very easy. It took me less than ten minutes. There were only five screws including two to hold heat element that I have to unscrew and transferred the old clip the screw onto new heat element.
Take top cover off take gear box cover off. check all gears for wear and clean all of above. Be sure you identify all parts needed before you order plus assembly grease!
Insert one end of the railing into the slot in the back of the stove. Align the front end of the railing with the hole at the front of the stove. Align the roller with the hole. Secure the front end of the railing, roller ,and hole with the shoulder bolt using a 10mm wrench. Tighten just enough but don't over tighten.
Unscrewed the oven from the opening. Removed the metal housing on the oven. Found the control panel. Hard to remove with the type of plastic anchors holding the panel on. Wasn't bad after that. Just had to keep track of the wires as you disconnected them. Reconnect to new board as you disconnect was the simplest. Worked just fine after that. nice new oven again.
I went to the source of power on the stove and noticed one of the terminals had come loose from the terminal block and had shorted out against the cover of the terminal junction. After prying the loose terminal off cover I ordered new terminal block and received it the 2nd day. I removed the old terminal block and replaced the part in about 10 minutes..Thank you Parts Select for your easy to find diagrams and quick delivery.
F3 = Sensor failure. After reading other stories here it seemed like a quick DIY fix. It was fairly easy, except tham my Amana Model had very short leads to the sensor that made me have to pull the oven out to get at the back. It was still easy, however it did not fix the problem. Ultimately I hired a repair person and they found that the underlying problem was a door hinge that had prevented the top of the door from sealing well and letting heat escape up near the control board. Over the years this had damaged the board, which is old and no longer made and the whole unit was totalled. Bummer for me but it was good that I tried and I will use PartSelect again (hopefully not soon, though).