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Terminal block arc'ed because a wire had become loose.
Ordered and received the terminal block. Installed it along with a new 220V power cord and the appropriate insulator . Ensured the terminals were tight with a nut driver. Reinstalled cover. Then, using the control panel, I did a function check on all the heating elements, clock, oven light, to satisfy all operational requirements. All checked good! And, I was relieved that the control panel had not been shorted out as the terminal block was due to a loose connection. Easy fix.
I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.
removed back plate screw, removed two broiler screws. Disconnected wires in back plate by sliding them off of connectors. removed broiler coil and assembly. Using pliers, bent retaining hooks off of old coil, removed it and replaced it with the new coil. Reversed process.
I went to the source of power on the stove and noticed one of the terminals had come loose from the terminal block and had shorted out against the cover of the terminal junction. After prying the loose terminal off cover I ordered new terminal block and received it the 2nd day. I removed the old terminal block and replaced the part in about 10 minutes..Thank you Parts Select for your easy to find diagrams and quick delivery.
Discriptions provided by others in this section made it easy and there is little additional insight I can add. The part was delivered the next day. I don't reply to these requests for comments, as providing what I paid for is the expectation. But, this outfit did a good job.
bought used, oven light was damaged from previous repair attempt, without installation instructions removing the fixture was tricky, had to bend the housing tabs inward w/screwdriver to release fixture (more damage). once out the new fixture went in place quite easily, wires simply hook up, re install back panel, re-connect power, Have a nice Day!
Pulled cooktop up on Counter top and unscrewed the screws around around the cook top lifting the glass top off to get to bad burner.then disconnected wires from old burner lifting burner out and sitting new burner down in the cut outs. I have used parts select for my refrigerator,microwave and oven I can't say enough about how great there website is as well as there service.they have made a customer out of me for life and I have turned a lot of friends on to the site and they love it as we'll.
the burners were located underneath the glass top, but i had no instructions on how to remove the glass top, so i spent an hour taking every screw off. finally i realized the glass top lifts off from the front then the repair became super easy. hard part was replacing all the screws, lol
I had already removed the old hinges by removing the screws/bolts and removing the broken hinges from the back side through the drawer below the oven that I had already removed. Took the new hinges and screwed the two metal screws into the top hole on the new hinges after placing hinge in vise, one screw on each then removed them and placed them to the side. Determined the right tap from my tap set, and then tapped the bottom two holes on the new hinges, one on each. Placed the bolts that came with the new hinges into the holes I had just tapped, screw them in, then I removed them and placed to the side. Took hinges and bolts / screws to the oven, inserted hinges in through the drawer that I had removed up to each side where hinges would come back out to the front of the oven. Placed screws / bolts one at a time through oven door frame into the hinge on the back side, and then threaded them into the hinges and tightened. Replaced oven door onto new hinges and checked for correct operation. Door works like new.