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broken hinge
The repair was quite easy. Remove the two screws and put in the new part. The only problem I had was the hinge sent was the wrong side (but it still worked) and the new hinge had no threads for the screws. I had to tap the holes so that the screws could be used.
Terminal block arc'ed because a wire had become loose.
Ordered and received the terminal block. Installed it along with a new 220V power cord and the appropriate insulator . Ensured the terminals were tight with a nut driver. Reinstalled cover. Then, using the control panel, I did a function check on all the heating elements, clock, oven light, to satisfy all operational requirements. All checked good! And, I was relieved that the control panel had not been shorted out as the terminal block was due to a loose connection. Easy fix.
I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.
I raised the stove top, read the instructions to my son while he did the work, then I lowered the stove top, installed the burner, and it worked like magic.
First I removed the one screw that held the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and cut the two wires...) Assembled the block parts. Installed shrink sleve and applied wire nuts to electrical connection to 2 wires then shrunk the sleve. Did the above procedure for 2 heating elements. They work very well now.
First I lifted the cooktop out of the countertop & removed the screws so I could access under the burners.Then I cut the wires for the old plug-in block & then stripped the wires.Next I connected the new wires with the wire nuts & then used a lighter to shrink wrap the wire nuts.Then I screwed in the new block & re-installed the screws for the cooktop.I put in the new burner & it worked just like new.
Turned off the power to the stove. Removed the 'burners' and 'burner' trays. Removed the screw that secured the bad block. Lifted the top of the stove. Cut the two wires to the bad block., stripped the wires about 1/2", slipped the shrink tube over the wires. Connected the new block with two porcelan wire nuts. slipped the shrink tube over the wirenuts and heated it with a lighter. Closed the top and secured the terminal block clip with a screw. Turned the power back on: voila!
All the necessary parts came in the repair kit, delivery was timely. Very easy project.
Removed burner and tray. Removed burner connector from stove top using screw driver. Removed existing heat shrink and wirenuts. Installed new connector - wire nuts and heat shrink. Used lighter to shrink. Took 20 minutes.
I had bought the 1st set of plug-in blocks at lowes, They were the only type they had the univeral ones! They did not hold the elements plug tight enough and half the time they would have to be punshed in more then they would snap and sizzle- I ordere the newer style and they have done great they are better made and heavier metal parts- they elements fit in snuggly and do not sizzle or nor do I have to push the element in. This stove is 35 years old and I have replaced most everything on it. But it's still cooking...