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Sparks emitted at burner connection and burner does not work.
1. Turn off circuit breaker, pull out element and remove reflector pan. 2. Unfasten terminal block mounting screw and remove terminal block from casing. 3. Cut wires as close to defective terminal block as possible (not as per instructions) since you will need the maximum possible length of wire. 4. Slip on heat shrink sleeves, strip stove wires and connect to new terminal block per instructions. 5. Heat shrink sleeves per instructions.
This wasn't a "repair", but I got an email asking for my story, so here it is. :-)
I followed the owner's manual instructions by pulling out the burner elements, lifting up the old drip bowls, setting in the new ones, replacing the elements.
Stove-top Burner intermittently shut off and on-wouldn't heat properly
removed old Plug-in block by removing 1 screw and cutting 2 wires. (Screw was so tight and rusty that I had to use vise grips to remove it). Installed new Plug-in block with wire nuts and heat shrink wraps. YOU just have to make sure the wires are seated in the block properly. This job was much easier than I anticipated. The burner works great now!
I unscrewed the 3 screws that held the element in place. My husband disconnected the back wired part of element .Then he reconnected new element wires and I rescrewed 3 screws in of new element. Very simple. I just wasn't sure about the back wired part, but like I said my husband seemed to know what he was doing so I let him do that part!
Instructions with parts are minimal. Looked at exploded drawing and read other installation descriptions on site. From the read I knew it was easier than it looked. Opened oven door. Unscrewed screws about 1/3 of the way up on both sides on inside face of door; these are the only thing attaching the hinges to the door. (Save all the screws you remove - they make work better than the ones with the parts.) The door can now be pulled off the range. I pulled the broken part out of the right side with pliers. Remove the screws below and about 8" up from the hinge on each side. When this is done you can pull the hinge out from the slot from the front. Open the new hinges up and they will slip through these same openings and position them as the ones you removed were positioned. Replace the screws. On the parts I received the lower screw holes on the hinge were not tapped. The original screws worked a bit like self-tapping ones. If you lose any parts or need to get to the hinge from the back you can take out the drawer.
Pulled stove out, unplugged it and took 4 screws out to get access to control board. Marked and removed all electrical wires and took 4 more screws out and took of oven knob.Replaced the control board and put everything back together.
The repair went real easy. Turned off power, unscrewed two screws at back of oven and disconnected the two wires. Reconnected two wires to new broiler element and remounted the new one with the two screws. Turned the breaker back on and had a steak cooking in no time.
took out screws on door side. Took out screws that held handle. Inserted glass and put handle back in and then put screws on side back in. There could have been better instructions with glass
I just ordered a new wire oven rack from you. When it came all I had to do was to remove it from the carton it came in and place it in the oven. It fit perfectly. Thanks
piece of cake. The pictures with the grid background on your website gave me ability to verify what I was purchasing.
This is the second use of Parts Select. First time was for another obscure part for an old microwave, which also worked out VERY well. Both appliances still in action.
Removed screws holding rear cover, removed cover. Male connector on Broil Element had rusted off and caused wire to fall onto the frame of the range, shorting it out.
Removed element by disconnecting other wire and removing the single Phillips head screw accessible from inside the oven. Released the element from the two hooks towards the front of the oven near the door and removed.
The wire to the element that burned off had a high temperature female push on connector that I did not have on hand. I had a high temp ring connector so I drilled one of the male connectors on the new element so I could use a small stainless screw and nut which I had to hold the ring terminal on.
After crimping the new connector on I fastened it to the element, connected the other wire and put the rear cover back.
Had to replace a rubber whee that was part of one of the drawer slides.
I was surprised when I was able to find that the (10 year old) parts for one of the drawer slides of my stove were still available. However, I was disappointed that the small bolt that I ordered did not come with a nut. I was lucky to find one in a collection of nuts in my workshop, and so was able to fix the slide. However, I suggest that if you supply someone with a bolt, that you include the nut that is necessary to make it work.
