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I removed the cartridge from the range and used a screw driver to remove the screws holding the burners assembly in the housing. (Some prefer to remove the burner from the top by removing the two screws, but I've had trouble realigning the parts that way.) I removed the ignition wire and the screw holding the bad electrode in the burner. I then installed the new electrode, attached the ignition wire, put the burners assembly back into the housing, and put the housing back into the range.
Rubber grate pads that protect the range top had worn and were flat.
It didn't. The grate pads (PN# PS389174) were too small for the grate (W10311216) and wouldn't work. (PN# recommended by Whirlpool parts department) The pads were smaller in diameter and shorter. Yes I could have glued them in, but because of the size the pads would be flat in no time. The only thing I could order from KitchenAid was the total grate. I ordered the pads late December, they were backordered. I got them the 1st week of February. I tried getting through to Whirlpool by calling to see if there was something I could reorder, but no luck, couldn't through. Am I unhappy? Oh some, but I handle it. Its not the first time I have been rode hard and put away wet.
We removed the oven protective shield, took out the broken glass (very carefully) and replaced it with the part shipped. Then, we replaced the protective shield and it was done.
Removed burner with attached igniter assembly by raising forward legs from slots and pulling unit from rear support. Note: this is contrary to instruction #1 on installation instructions. Then followed the remaining instuctions 2 - 7 as written. Everything worked as planned.
All four Spark did not ignite or only once and a while
Unplugged the stove, removed all 4 burner discs from the stove top (2 screws each- WATCH YOU DONT STRIP HEADS) and disconnecting electrode wires ( DONT HAVE TO- IF YOU HAVE ENOUGH ROOM TO SIDE TOP UNIT OVER), unscrewed the old module, removed each of the 6 wires,one at a time and connected wires to the new module. Plug in stove to test before you screwed it into place, reinstalled the top unit , put the stove top in place,. Done!
Removed the oven racks for room to work. Removed a protective cover (slide forward, lift up). Remove winged cover plate. See igniter assembly. Remove 2 or 3 holding screws (I don't want to go in and count them - it's obvious - they are clearly in view - get a good screw-driver seating - they come out easily). The igniter assembly is then loose and ready to com out. Remove the stove drawer to get at the access plate at the rear - comes off easily(the wires to the igniter were then clearly identifiable). Release the wire plug - I marked one side with a sharpy - polarity of fit, not voltage. Gently feed the igniter assembly out the bottom using the wires. Remove the igniter from the shroud (may have to pul it apart a little - it's tight - it does come out easily after prying the shroud a little - mark a side with a sharpy - for mechanical orientation. The part number should be on the igniter. I did not bother matching the part number. Just matched the stove brand and model. The parts diagram provided by PartSelect was invaluable. I put an ac meter up the holes of the plug (stove side, of course) turned on the stove to see the meter measure 115vac - assurance that the igniter was bad and not anything else. Just reverse the removal process. Just takes a little time and patience. Very very doable. Good luck.
Removed oven grills and top of burner pan. This exposed the igniter. Removed 3 phillips head screws from igniter bracket. Slid old igniter out the back end. Removed utility drawer. Removed two screws from back pan covering igniter plug-in. Unplugged igniter, removed from range. Handling of igniter is tricky..do not touch black end. Slide new igniter into the bracket, feed wire with connector through hole in back (where igniter was removed from), install the three screws for the bracket (your new igniter is now secure), from the bottom, plug in the new connector it only goes on one way. Re-install pan with two screws. Put utility drawer back in..job is complete!!
shut off gas at tank, pulled stove out from counter area to gain acess to back, removed oven door removed removed screws holding igniter unit in place, i then removed the stove rear panel to get at the wiring for ignitor,remoded old part returned to front and installed new part, checked voltage then re-connected new wires, turded gas back on and tested oven, oven came on less than a minute, put rear panel on stove put door back on and put stove back into counter area, stove works like new.
the oven would not heat. The ignitor would heat up, but not enough to allow the gas valve to open.
The repair was fairly straightforward. The drawer below the oven had to be pulled out and the panel in the rear (looking from the front through the opening where the drawer was) was removed. It was then a matter of removing two screws and unsnapping the wire connection. And then replacing the igniter.
Racks would fall off of the tracks when the broiler was used
I ordered new racks to see if they weere out of alignment. The new racks fell from its tracks after the broiler was heated. It seems the oven cabinet is expanding with the heat and the rack width does not compensate for that. The new racks did not solve the problem so I do not know what can be done next. Any shelf support would have to be heat resistent. Replacing the oven cabinet is not a good option and no gauantee it wouldn't continue with this stove.
removed the shield and removed the old tube. Replaced with the new tube and replaced the shield. The only place I could locate this tube was through the internet. This Co. had as good a price including shipping that I found.
