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Gas valve would not open to let the gas flow to burner.
Simple install - 6 -7 screws one nut. Once replaced oven worked good as new. Part shipped from PartSelect actually better than one installed by repairman 4 years ago - fit like an original part.
Removed screws on edges of door. Romove front panel. Remove several screws around glass. Replace inner glass and replace screws. A little tricky reinstalling trim around door front.
looked at and saw that ignitor was cracked,saw simple repair ahead. just needed the right part . Without part , select simple ,and easy selection, i might not have ever found the right part. as i said before finding the right part is 90 percent of the job and they made that an easy task .
of course if you want me to describe in detail, took out the pan saw the bad ignitor, removed 2 serews, disconnected 2 wire, the reassembled in the opposite direction. 30 minutes tops. I am sure this saved me at least 150 bucks for some "so called reparman" to do the same job, Most people do not realise that they have more education than most of these "repairmen". The only advantage these "repair people" have is acess to schematics and part numbers. Part select is a good start on putting this information in the hands of us average "idiots" as I am sure the repair folks call us when we pay 200 bucks for a 30 dollar job.
I had done this before, but a while back, so it took a little longer to disassemble and find the igniter. Once there, easy to troubleshoot with a meter. Reassembly was only a few minutes and part of that was finding a new nut, since I lost one. I had to remove the storage drawer, then remove a metal cover to get at the connections. I tested the power to the igniter and found it to be OK. I tested continuity and had some but very low. Pulled the diffuser and cover off burner to locate igniter. Ordered part,put it on and reassembled everything. Working fine.
Installed new igniter - easy job. Remove burner deflector, remove screws holding igniter bracket, remove panels below oven (accessible via removal of drawer), disconnect igniter and remove. Remove igniter from bracket, slide new one into bracket and reverse the steps to install it. Unfortunately, it didn't work. Igniter not glowing. I checked continuity on the igniter and it showed 90ohms resistance, so seems to be OK. Put multimeter on range plug end, turned on oven and multimeter did show cycling voltage at the plug (although I'm not certain what it should read). Relay in the control board does 'click' when oven turned on, so it also seems to work. Think I may be down to the gas control safety valve for the oven, but it is no longer available. Anyone have any other ideas? Hate to buy another igniter and have it still not work. Thanks!!
Followed Instructions with part. Easy Install. However the problem not solved. I believe Oven Control defective (Worn Out). Replacement May not be available. Still looking. Thank You. RJC
Researched through this site to find part numbers and names. Youtubed it to see how to install the part. Ordered the exact part via this site and received it in only a day or two. Installed it in less than 15 minutes and the oven works amazing. It gets up to temp quickly and holds temp better than it has in years. Very satisfied!
I raised the top of my Whirlpool Continuous Cleaning Canning Oven, then had to unscrew 3 screws and a lock nut, then raise top about 4 inches, so I could put my hand inside to unplug the wires to the switch, and push it through the hole in front, of oven. Then put the new switch through hole and plug in new switch. Then screw down top; and close lid. Part #866294
I removed the cartridge from the range and used a screw driver to remove the screws holding the burners assembly in the housing. (Some prefer to remove the burner from the top by removing the two screws, but I've had trouble realigning the parts that way.) I removed the ignition wire and the screw holding the bad electrode in the burner. I then installed the new electrode, attached the ignition wire, put the burners assembly back into the housing, and put the housing back into the range.
Removed the oven racks for room to work. Removed a protective cover (slide forward, lift up). Remove winged cover plate. See igniter assembly. Remove 2 or 3 holding screws (I don't want to go in and count them - it's obvious - they are clearly in view - get a good screw-driver seating - they come out easily). The igniter assembly is then loose and ready to com out. Remove the stove drawer to get at the access plate at the rear - comes off easily(the wires to the igniter were then clearly identifiable). Release the wire plug - I marked one side with a sharpy - polarity of fit, not voltage. Gently feed the igniter assembly out the bottom using the wires. Remove the igniter from the shroud (may have to pul it apart a little - it's tight - it does come out easily after prying the shroud a little - mark a side with a sharpy - for mechanical orientation. The part number should be on the igniter. I did not bother matching the part number. Just matched the stove brand and model. The parts diagram provided by PartSelect was invaluable. I put an ac meter up the holes of the plug (stove side, of course) turned on the stove to see the meter measure 115vac - assurance that the igniter was bad and not anything else. Just reverse the removal process. Just takes a little time and patience. Very very doable. Good luck.
We removed the oven protective shield, took out the broken glass (very carefully) and replaced it with the part shipped. Then, we replaced the protective shield and it was done.
