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Bulb Replacement
I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.
First I tested the oven thermostat after removing the two screws attaching it to the back of the oven and pulling the thermostat out far enough to unplug it. I tested the thermostat using a multi tester set for testing OHMS. The test meter read 1080 ohms indicating that the thermostat was OK. I reinstalled the thermostat after plugging the wires back in and carefully feeding them back into the rear of the oven then replacing the two screws previously removed.
I then removed four screws holding the oven in place (Located inside on both sides of the oven - easier to remove oven door first) I slid the oven out being careful not to damage the pigtail providing power to the oven. I had studied the schematic and found a fan control located on the right top of the oven under an access cover. Remove the screws holding this cover in place (about 10 or 12 screws)slide cover off and this exposes the fan control. It has one red and one blue wire attached to it. This fan control should not have continuity when at room temp. I checked continuity with the multi tester and the fan control was on at room temperature. This fan control should not have continuity unless the temperature is around 200 deg f. I replaced the fan control by removing two screws holding it in place and unplugging the two wires connected to it. (BE SURE POWER IS TURNED OFF!!!) Reconnect the two wires to the new fan control and reattach the two screws holding it in place. Replace the access cover, slide oven back into cabinet and reattach using the four screws. Replace oven door and re-energize power to the oven. It takes a few minutes for the oven to get hot enough to turn on the cooling fan. (The cooling fan IS NOT the same fan that you can see when the oven door is open-that is the convection fan the cooling fan is visible through the top vents over the oven door)
Ordered a left & right hinge. Paid considerably more for the left hinge but both hinges were identical when received. Bolt holes in both hinges were not tapped for the bolts which were sent with the hinges. This required a trip to the hardstore to get a tap set. After the bolt holds were tapped there was no problem removing the old hinges and installing the new ones.
Switch was intermittently bad . Had to replace . Cleaing the old grease was more trouble than replacing the switch
Most difficult problem was locating and getting to the two screws one at each end of the cowling under the upper facias for the griddle and burner sections respectively . Once out , all knobs removed , the switch was accessed by pulling the cowling forward and up a couple inches . Noting the 3 small color coded wires locations and the two color coded power input wires for install of new switch . Balck sharpie touched up normal wear on cowl and facia panels .
I had a power serge and it burned the Plug at the termial block and melted a few wire.
After we got the part in the mail my husband put it on and shortened the wires and put new plugs on the ends of the wires and we had to get a new plug put it on and it was fixed.
Take top cover off take gear box cover off. check all gears for wear and clean all of above. Be sure you identify all parts needed before you order plus assembly grease!
The heating element (bottom coil) went out in my oven.
Cut off power to my range at the circuit breaker. Removed the 2 screws from the original element, pulled the element out about 4 inches to expose the wires to see the connections. (I put clothes pins on the wires to keep the wires from possibly sliding back into the holes in the oven.). Pulled the connections apart carefully, removed the old element, plugged in the new one, slid the wires back in the holes, replaced the 2 screws & was done! I did this by myself before my husband got home ... very easy! And I was thrilled to have my oven back!