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Needed to change out front panel from Black to SSteel
Open door fully. Remove all screws that hold inside panel to Front panel. Carefully remove Inside panel being VERY CAREFULL not to pull wiring out of door switch [top of door] and operator switch panel [also top of door]. Remove door switch, next remove 3 screws holding switch panel in place. Remove the top plastic section where switch panel mounts and set aside. Carefully remove green ground wire from bottem hinge for door. [right side] Next CAREFULLY remove front panel from hinges using EXTREME CARE not to let hinges "free fall" to the open position. Remove old panel. Install new panel in the reverse order as the old one was removed. DO NOT PANIC if you happen to pull the "ribbon cable' out of panel switch. It will plug back in very quickly and only one way. Just make sure it is "seated" in plug. The "key word" for this panel replacement is CAREFULLY.
Very simple! First, free the wheel from the rail - should come right out if the wheel is broken. Then click the wheel base off the small shelf rod by rotating the wheel bse. Then, click the rail end cap off the rail by pressing it through the small square hole in the flat side of the rail. Insert the wheel into the rail, then click the wheel base back onto the shelf rail rod where you took the old one off. Click the rail end cap back on, and you're done!
Removed the bottom tray. Removed the two clips in the top tray guides and removed the top tray. Removed the top spray arm and transfer tube by unclipping it from the top and at the back and then rotated it down and out. Removed the six screws around the upper pump housing and removed it along with the bottom spray arm. Removed the three screws holding the filter protector plate and removed it. Removed the two screws holding the accumulator / flow plate and removed it. Put it back together in reverse order careful to not over tighten the screws.
I noticed that the dishes on the top rack were not getting clean. While the dishwasher was running, I opened the door to see if the arms were moving/spraying and they were not. I cleaned the filter and checked the impeller and both were clean and not damaged. After looking how the top rack slides into the "flapper" I took it off to inspect it. It was missing the rubber to make the seal with the tube from the top rack. After replacing this part, the dishwasher is cleaning like new. Here is the part PS2340934 Docking Station with Flappers
spring on one side of door broke, door became heavy and wouldn't stay up
Unscrewed dishwasher from counter and pulled it out from under the counter a few inches. Looked at the side of the dishwasher with the remaining good spring and saw how it was attached: One end was hooked to a little tether strung around a pulley, the other to one of a few steel slots. Copied that side for the new spring and works fine now.
Very easy to replace the roller. First I removed the stop on the top slide. Then I unsnapped the old roller. The new roller just snapped right in place. Then I put the drawer slide back on.... Took less than 5 minutes.
Dishwasher was leaking do to heating element decay.
1.Disconnected the electricty 2. pulled the dishwasher from under the cabinet 3. tilted the washer on it's face (water supply was long enough and did not need to disconnected.)4. unscrerwed the 2 plastic nuts that hold the heating eliment in place. 5. tilted the dishwasher back upright and removed the old heating element. 6.put the new part in place had a helper tilt the washer forward while i tightened up the two plastic nuts to hold the part in place.7 reattached the elecrtic conectors to the heating element. 8. pushed the dishwasher back in place. 9 hook the electricity back up. During step 4 i had to remove the electric connectors from the old heating element.
from inside the door remove torx screws down each side and top , pull panel back , removed 6 screws from back of dispenser ,unplug 1 wire connection ,reverse procedure , real easy repair.
The original piece is 100% plastic (with metal shields only to prevent burning). The bushing of the arm was badly worn out in one side. The arm was no turning properly or at the end no turning at all. I decide to drill the new part in order to fit a brass bushing inside (1/4" ID, 5/16" OD, about 2" long). I expect it will last considerable longer. I would say this is a typical "defective by design" problem.
Wanted to change our dishwasher to a stainless steel appearance. When the panel was delivered in 1 day I might add it was flawless. I removed the old panel and the new panel attached to the dishwasher perfectly with the screw holes exactly lining up. The most inexpensive way to turn a kitchen into a stainless steel appliance look.
The repair was much simpler than I had anticipated. I just started removing screws, remembering what screws went where, and carefully removed the parts I needed to until I could get to and remove the filter unit. Installing the new unit was a snap, then it was just a matter of putting everything back together.
First I watched the repair video provided at your site. Once I got the right part, it went like a breeze. Just a phillips head screw driver and 5 minutes of my time. Speaking if the right part.... I would suggest that you remove the 'LATCH-DOOR-NO Handle' from your parts list.It only cause confusion in ordering the part I needed, and a loss of several days time in the repair cycle. All in all, a good repair experience. I would reccommend you to my " Do It Yourself" friends. Thanks, Harold L.
By reading online about some similar problems, I discovered that the accumulator did, in fact, have some holes worn through the screen and was leaking sediment back into the rinse water. After waiting for 2-3 months because the apart was on back-order at the factory, it took me less that 1 hour to remember how the unit went together (reviewed the parts diagram online) and connect everything up. On the first rinse, the dishes were really clean - well worth the wait. Doing dished by hand reminded me of the old days....