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Broken Electrode, no spark
Remove 2 screws holding the top burner. Remove 1 screw holding the electrode. Remove electrode from wiring using plier. Install new electrode and top burner
The broiler would work but the stove would not lite. I saw the igniter getting to a glow on the broiler and lite but the stove it would not so I figured the igniter might be shot.
1st I opened door to stove and removed the wire racks. Then removed lower panel to get to igniter. Then I had to slide stove away from wall. Remove panel on back for accesss to wires. The new part had a plastic connector and the original just used wire nuts for the connection. So I cut off connector and stripped 1/2 inch of the end. Removed wire nuts from old igniter. Back into the oven removed 2 screws pulled out old igniter. Installed new igniter with 2 screws stuck wires through small hole to rear. Back around to back of stove. Connected wires with wire nuts.(I did not see any differnce in wires and dont think it matters) put everything back together and fires that baby up. I am gonna say 15-30 min job
Burner would not ignite when control in "light" position
Remove the two screws from the burner assembly (on top of the burner). Lift burner assembly from the cook top. Disconnect the electrode wire from the electrode. Remove the screw holding the electrode to the burner assembly (on bottom of burner). Install the new electrode and attach the electrode to the burner assembly. Attach the electrode wire to the electrode. drop the burner assembly back into position on the cooktop. Attach the burner assembly using two screws.
Unplug oven. Remove oven door. Two latches on hinges must be rotated towards the door to release and then remove. Remove two thumb screws that hold drip pan in place and remove from oven. The ignitor is then exposed. Remove the two screws that hold the ignitor onto the burner asymbley. Pull wires/connection plug through hole in back of oven. I used needle nose pliers to guide electrical plug through hole. Disconnect old ignitor and plug in new. Simply pull apart. There is a guide key that will ensure you install plug correctly. Reasymble in reverse order. Hardest part for me was getting the door back one.
Two of the four burners would not ignite when lighting the stove.
I thought the problem was with the ignitors/burners since they appeared to be worn. As it turned out, I needed the spark ignitor, which is a "brain box" located under the range cover. It connects all of the ignitor/burners and sends current to the ignitors to give it the "spark" to ignite the gas. It was really easy to replace.
replaced top burner - in theory simple, but severe rusting of two screws holding the burner required drilling and extracting with a screw extractor. The screws broke requiring that the entire burner pan assembly be taken apart to remove the broken nubs of screws from behind with vice grips. Recommend that you have proper sized pan head screws available when you start job so it can be finished in one sitting. Burner starts perfectly now.
I removed the two rear screws securing the bottom plate inside the oven. The ignitor visually was fine, however the wires internally must have frayed and was not connecting properly. I unscrewed the two screws securing the ignitor, disconnected the plug, then reconnected the new ignitor and things fired up immediately.
1. Flip "OFF" circuit breaker. 2. Pull out range unit from wall. 3. Unplug range unit. 4. On the back of the range unit, remove 4 screws holding lower rear cover using a phillips head screwdriver. 5. Remove lower rear cover. 6. Unplug temperature sensor connector (1 wire connector located upper right section behind oven). 7. From inside oven (upper left, back corner), remove 2 screws holding temperature sensor unit using a Phillips head screwdriver. 8. Remove old temperature sensor unit. 9. Insert new temperature sensor unit (wire connector end first) through opening and secure reusing old screws. 10. Re-connect temperature sensor connector. 11. Re-attach and secure lower rear cover reusing 4 old screws. 12. Plug in range unit. 13. Move range unit back to desired location. 14. Flip "ON" circuit breaker.
Ignitor couldn't be removed because the screws were ruined.
This is the second time I have had to call a repair person to GE the old screws off. It isn't the fault of the part. Better original screws would have helped. It was very frustrating an expensive. I would say check the screws before you order the part.
I unscrewed the ignitor from the gas supply. Unplugged the ignitor. Plugged the new ignitor in and screwed it back in place to the gas supply. It could not have been easier!
One of the burners would not autolight, had to be lit with match
This was VERY easy and I've never worked on this type of appliance before.
First, take off the grate, thermal plate, etc that are resting on top of the stove (this is all the stuff you take off to clean the stovetop).
Then, carefully unscrew the two screws holding the burner to the gas pipe. Grab the screws and set them aside so they don't fall back into the stove, then pick the burner up off the stove.
once you have the burner a few inches above the stove surface, wiggle off the single wire by grabbing it on the metal part (not by the wire) and gently wiggling it off.
Grab new burner, push on wire and sit it on stove, use a finger in the gas pipe to align it and put the two screws in. you're done.
INCREDIBLY easy! I removed the back panel, unplugged a few wires, switched out the control panels and put everything back. I'm not all that handy and was a little worried embarking in this project but it couldn't have been easier. Anyone, and I mean anyone, could do this and all you need is a screwdriver.
I was ready to pay a local repair shop an extra $200 to get this fixed but (luckily for me) they get the part in stock. I went to PartSelect, and they had it in stock! It was to my house in just a few days and I saved a bundle!