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Washer not draining and door locked .. Loud buzzing
First, the repair manual is under the top cover. From the manual, I found that my problem E1 F0 (I think) was one of two possible issues, the drain pump or level switch. I bought both parts and replaced them and the issue is no more. The repair went very easy. You remove the rear cover and top. The pump is located in the bottom bay of the machine. The only issue I had was that the machine had the drawer unit, which blocked the access panel under the machine and made installation and removal a little more difficult. The best way is to tilt the machine forward to reach the bolts, a small ratchet set works nicely. The level switch is on the right side, toward the rear. This part slides out, and the wires are keyed, so they only go in one way.
So I was unable to get my model number so I took the hinge off the washer and was able to order the part. Before removing the hinge I used a marker and marked the hinge location on the washer. Once I got the part I removed the T15 screws on the inside part of the door and separate the pieces. I was able to remove the white tube for all 4 of the pins and put them on the hinge. I installed the hinge an then i put the front door pieces back together again while it was laying on the floor. I though I put it in wrong but I was correct. Once i had the hinge on the door and the door reassembled, I was able to attached the hinge to the washer. The hinge comes off the washer by pushing up on it and to reinstall you push down. I tighten the 4 T25 screws using the marks on the washer and the door is alligned correctly. I am able to close the washer door with one finger instead of my whole hand.
Disconnect electrical plug. Remove rear panel from washer. Remove drain hose. Open filter on pump unit to drain water from washer ( use a catch pan to catch water) remove drain hose from drain pump unit. Remove electrical connector. Remove 4 mounting bolts. Remove drain pump assembly. Install new pump in reverse order. Once washer is assembled. Pour about a quart of washer into the drum so as not to run the drain pump dry. Enjoy your repaired washer
Took sometime to figure out the problem. A little difficult to replace part partly due to the drain pump with filter’s location in the washer. Mine is on its lower right rear. It’s reachable and yet difficult. Good luck!
Kept getting drain error codes- drain pump was loud
An easy job- hardest part was moving the machine away from the wall - ours is stacked with dryer on top.
Once we pulled it away from the wall: 1) remove back cover with a screwdriver (I used a driver to make this easier) 2) unclamp the drain hose from drain pump and drain excess water into a shallow pan 3) unplug the electrical connection from drain pump 4) use a wrench to remove the 4 hex screws holding the drain pump to the drum 5) pull down the drain pump from drum 6) repeat above in reverse to install new pump
Desarme la puerta y coloque la nueva con mucha facilidad, nunca reparé un electrodoméstico antes de este, seguí el diagrama que encontré en el sitio para elegir la pieza que se rompio
The tub would fill with water from the detergent/softener/bleach dispenser
The repair was easier than the troubleshooting. Figured out the hot or cold water supply valve was failing which allowed water to enter the tub via the dispenser leaving several inches of water on clean clothes or the empty cylinder.
To replace the valve you need to first shut off the hot/cold water supply and remove the hoses. (I took this time to replace the several year old hot & cold water supply rubber hoses with metal braided hoses. I also took a wire brush to the threads of the copper spigot removing any built up corrosion or gunk.) Next you need to remove the 3 1/4" sheet metal screws which secure the top panel of the washing machine. I always take a few pictures of the old part, hose, and connectors just to make sure I replace them in the same locations.
After removing the cover you can use clamp removal/installation pliers, vice grips, or a similar tool to remove the clamps for the hot and cold water to the detergent/bleach/softener dispenser.
Then, remove the electrical connectors on the valve and if you want label them with their locations on the left or right facing the rear of the washer if you want but they are pretty much self-explanatory. They have little retention clips which need to be disengaged in order to be removed from the valve assembly.
Next, remove the hoses and then the three sheet metal screws attaching the valve to back panel of the washer. Install the new valve assembly and then attach the hot and cold water hoses using the clamps to the detergent/bleach/softener dispensers. Then, attach the electrical connectors to the new valve and listen for the clip to engage and gently pull back on the connector (not the wires) to ensure they are properly attached to the valve.
Reconnect the hot & cold water supply hoses from the building pipes and turn-on both spigots or ball valves. Check for leaks and then plug in the washing machine and run a load to test the normal operation. I would leave one piece of dry clothing in the tub after running a load and leave it for a few hours to ensure the new valve is working as advertised.
If there are no further leaks, you are done! Way to go!
I am still waiting for the correct part to arrive, I was sent a part but it was the wrong part, the wrong part number and it was nothing that would work on a washing machine. I think someone else ended up with my part and I got theirs.
I pulled out the filter and it was not pugged so I ordered a new pump and installed it, easy to do. That took care of the fault code and it was repaired. Being who I am I took apart the old pump and found that the pump had a build up around the armature of the pump motor. I cleaned it up and reinstalled it and the old pump worked fine. Now I have a spear pump for the next it fails. Easy repair that took less than 15 minuets to fix. Happy to deal with Parts Select they have great shipping.