Enter the code DIYDAD10 at checkout to apply your discount. Discount will be applied at checkout when the code is entered & applies to all parts. Cannot be combined with any other coupon or special offer & cannot be applied to a previously placed order. Not valid toward tax or shipping & handling. Discount has no cash value. Discount expires on June 17 at 11:59pm EST.
You've Got 10% Off Your First Order!Save 10% with code at checkout *click to copy coupon code
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Refrigerator light had a short in it and would randomly work
Unplugged the fridge. Used a screwdriver to loosen the switch. Easy to disconnect from fridge and just plugged the new switch in. Popped right back into the side of the fridge and worked perfectly.
I found a crack in the pex line from the valve up the back of the refrigerator to the water filter. I could not find the correct 5/16" size line locally to replace it. A guy in plumbing at Home Depot said he always repaired them by cutting out the crack and finding a piece of clear vinyl line that would fit tightly over the cracked pex to splice in a fix with hose clamps. I did that and it was a really bad idea. The line was obviously fatigued and failing because it just cracked further up and leaked again. I then looked up and ordered the correct line (actually both the supply and return since they were available). Installing the new lines was a breeze. The pex connectors are simple to disconnect and reconnect. Wish I had done that to start with. I looked for a youtube video for the proper replacement steps but all I found was a video of a guy who cut out a crack and stuck a pex connector in to replace the cracked section. By doing that he pulled slack from the valve end of the line which didn't exist and cracked the line again. I don't know why anyone would mess with patching one of these lines. The correct parts are available, cut to the right length, and removing and replacing them at the valve and the filter is dead simple.
light was not going on sometimes, or needed wiggling to work
purchased a new switch. The old switch just needed to be lightly pried out with a screw driver, then it was simple to unplug the old, and plug in the new. Voila! Light !
Remove door seal and cam shaft (one piece). Remove broken cam by removing Philips head screw. Replace broken cam with new cam and reassemble. The actual repair took about 15 minutes however the majority of time was spent figuring out that the door seal and cam shaft had to be removed, no tools required.
Uncoupled the old connector, replaced with new connector and attached supply line. Repair easy with right part, prior to ordering the right part I had tried a compression fitting and it still leaked. U-tube and others demonstrating repair assured me I was on the right path.
door mounted cold water tank was leaking at seam of polyethylene tank.
The part labeled as water tank was not pictured on web site, and when it arrived it was a large coil of plastic tubing wire-tied in an oval shape,not a blown p/e tank as original.The oval of tubing would not fit into the door compartment, because of the bulk of the actuating solenoid. No instructions were included. It was necessary to hacksaw the steel solenoid mounting bracket off the solenoid, then contort the solenoid into the compartment to get all parts inside the cover. new connectors had to be purchased, because the the tank/tubing coil was 1/4" od, while the original tank had 5/16"od connections.
I first took off a plastic trip strip which just popped off with a little pull. Then I pulled the gasket off slowly all around the perimeter of the door and snapped off the guide strip with the help of a screwdriver. I installed the gasket next first the guide strip then followed up with the pushing the gasket into the groove all around the door. Did the same procedure on the other door. The gaskets came very well packed and undamaged. It took approximately 2 weeks because one gasket was on back order. Thank you for your help with these parts. It would have cost me 3 times as much if the repairman performed this repair.
I removed the old lamp cover and case. Discovered that the last repair person had not re installed it correctly so the case had melted from the bulbs. I Removed the screws that was supposed to hold it up, assembled the case and cover, inserted the screws and anchored them in where they belong. Problem solved!
