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Bottom oven pan was warped and discolored
Unscrew the 2 screws at the back of the oven bottom pan in the range. Place new oven pan in and rescrew the 2 screws. I could not get the two screws screwed back in. Since the bottom pan cannot move from its position, I felt like the two screws were not necessary.
Surface element would stay on high no matter the position of selector knob
First, make sure power is off to range. Removed backing cover, pulled one wire off infinite switch at a time to put in right place on new switch. Easy fix.
Electric element would intermitantly go on high, even on low settings.
Slid stove out, disconnect power plug, removed top control panel with 4 screws. Unplugged two electrical connectors. removed knob and nut removing switch. Re-assembled in reverse order and test all functions.
Burners constantly overheating, and inconsistent heating.
With the stove pulled out and unplugged, There are 4 square head screws to pull a metal plate off the back of the range. Once that is off, the infinite switches are in line and can be removed with a philips head screw driver/bit. I placed each wire onto the new switch as I removed them from the old, to avoid any confusion. The entire repair took less than 10 minutes. Incredibly easy.
NEED A QUARTER INCH SOCKET FOR THE BOLTS. REMOVE THE BACK PANEL AND THEN YOU WILL SEE THE TWO ELECTRIC WIRES GOING TO THE TERMINALS OF THE ELEMENT. DISCONNECT AND THEN GO TO THE FRONT OF OVEN AND REMOVE THE FOUR BOLTS THAT HOLD IN THE TOP ELEMENT. SIMPLY, VERY SLOWLY PULL THE ELEMENT FORWARD UNTILL IT CLEARS THE BACK AND YOUR GOOD TO GO. DO NOT FORGET TO DISCONNECT THE POWER TO THE OVEN BEFORE YOU START!
Broiler element fried, found nothing in town, Part Select delivered in three days
Pulled oven out, took the screws out of back plate cover plate with socket wrench, pulled connectors out through the back, removed the door, pushed the element rods through the two holes, connected the two wires, screwed the element in, put the hangars on for the element, put the back plate on and turned the broiler on, worked great, put the range door back on and has been working great. Great company, hope not to use them again, but good to know they are there with my part. Gary H.
My oven door seal was worn and did not seat properly. It leaked heat.The infinite burner was not warming in the low heat positions
I followed two very good videos on how to do the repairs. It took longer to clean all the disassembled parts and the glass than it did to actually do the repair. A word of caution: Be sure to lock the door hinges in the open position before you lift out the door. They must be locked open to put the door back on. It's difficult to lock them open once the door is removed. Also when you replace the screws get them all aligned in the holes before you lock everything down. The infinite burner switch was pretty easy to replace but watch out for sheet metal cuts when you are removing the back of the stove. I recommend gloves. My stove has a 12 inch infinite burner, but the parts list only mentions a 10 inch burner. Before I ordered it, I had to call the company to verify that it could be used for the 12 inch burner as well.
I wanted the bracket for the oven heating element and received the bracket for the broiler.... part returned and now I am stumped about what my next move will be
Arcing could be heard (and later seen) inside the switch
Switch was easy to replace. Some hex head screws to remove the panel and two screws to remove the switch. Though the plug in positions were totally different, all the quick connect terminals were marked on both switches.
after pulling away from wall and unplugging remove 5 screws in upper back panel lift off being careful of sharp edges if part of lens is still in hole push it out towards the front insert lens from front of unit slide light assy over pin on back of lens replace back panel plug in range push back against wall check for level you're done
