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Broken door glass
I removed the screws holding the door together,removed the broken panel and replaced it with the new glass The part fit correctly and the re-assembly was easy.
I removed the four phillips screws to seperate the oven door sections (that lets the door handle drop off too.) and then took out four hex head screws that hold the glass bracket in place. I had to lift out the front glass to reach the broken back glass. After that, I just slipped the new glass into position and reversed the procedure. It took about 25 minutes. It took just about 25 minutes counting the time it took me to find a hex head nut driver. I'm willing to bet it saved me a bundle, too.
All visible screws on sides & top of door, including screws for the door handle have to be removed. Fairly uncomplicated job, but as the glass that needed to be replaced, was 4th of 4 layers of glass, all needed to be removed from the outside in, in sequence, to get to the broken piece. Then as long as everything was apart, cleaned all pieces, before reassembling. Job much easier with two people, as one can hold & align all layers together, as the other tightens all the screws.
I used the tutorial as a guide, and went ahead with the repair. Because of the older model I was working on there were many more screws to remove, not a problem the repair was simple.
The how-to video was helpful, though my old range has an extra spacer panel between the glass-top and oven, requiring an extra couple of screws to be removed, with different-sized Philips head.
1. Replacement part was not exactly like the original. * Inner and outer elements lacked an insulating spacer. * The two wiring terminals/docks were swapped. * So had to attend to where the wires were going. * Worked, just needed some observation & thought.
2. MOUNTING HOLES a. Old element had clips mounted at holes 9 & 45. b. Old element had the four-terminal wiring dock attached by screws at 71 & 72 (also where 0 would be), “ahead” of the small three-terminal port by about 5 number positions. c. Corresponding holes in replacement were not the ones with pre-drilled insulating material. But it's really soft and easily drilled by hand. Probably could have just screwed directly into it. d. Replacement four-terminal dock is “behind” the smaller one by a few number spots.
3. WIRING IS REVERSED As noted, the two terminal docks are swapped, so watch the wiring.
Old terminal docks/ports were directly connected by a wire shunt that tied those terminals to the inner ring element.
The new element also has inner/outer burners, with no separation, but we can trace the wiring. Instead of a shunt, the docks are connected via the element. The right port on the small dock is connected to the inside burner, and that inside burner element exits into the large dock. That’s the inside-burner circuit.
older range required no tools to repair, pulled old gasket out of notches at bottom of door, popped clips out of pre-drilled holes, folded new gasket ends {2 inches} and pushed into door, pushed clips into place.
Second replacement of switch that disintegrated with minimum normal usage.
Removed old switch, moved the one wire to the same pin on new very cheaply made but expensive made in Mexico switch, replaced switch, pugged range back in too AC, operated new switch, created sparks and smoke. Element now glows to max immediately when turned on. Replaced stove problem gone!
I saw a chart of the oven door at site after I finally got the model number. I actually thought I had ordered the wrong part, third door in was last pane I thought, but actually this is inner most oven door, glass panel four. I had to find a correct screw diver which took awhile. I thought I didn't have the strength to turn the necessary screws, but easily could with correct screw driver. I followed other stories about removing handle, spring loaded door, so be careful it pops apart. A bit tricky to put back together, cause you have to hold door together against spring when you put cap on and door handle. Remove handle, remove top plastic cap. Will see screws holding glass and aluminum shield in place. Remove shield, need to remove screws holding glass two panes with holder. Shield pulls back and this glass just drops in. Reassemble door.
my dad and i did it together and it was easy. just had to remove the screws on the outside oven door pull the door apart, remove the old glass and put in the new and put the screws back in. hardest part was to get some of the screws out because they had been in so long.
First I took the door off. Then I removed about a dozen screws. Than my wife insisited on cleaning the other two windows! Since the inside window was broken ;a lot of grease had gotten on the other two windows.She said she would never have another chance. After that I put everything back together. It took about an hour all together.
First I removed the oven door screws, then I removed the outer handle and then there were 2 more sets of screws that actually held 2 panes of glass onto the door.
The repair shop wanted 150 dollars to fix it. I ordered the glass and replaced it myself. It was really easy and all I need was a screwdriver. It took me about 30 minutes total.
