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Broiler element burned out
Very important first step: Turn off the circuit breaker for the range or disconnect the power cord. I removed the oven door to make it easier to access the back of the oven; remove two screws and the door lifts off of the brackets. Removed a screw from the top of the oven that secures one end of a wire that supports the broil element. Removed two screws that secure the broil element plate to the back of the oven. Pulled the element forward exposing the end terminals and wires. The wires are connected to the element by spade connectors. Used long nosed pliers to remove the connectors from the element. Pushed the connectors on to the new element and stuffed the ends of the element and wires back through the opening and the insulation. Reinstalled the two screws holding the element in place and the screw holding the wire in place across the top of the oven. Reinstalled the door. Took less than 30 minutes.
The temperature was irratic the entire time the stove was on. I would set it for 350 and it would go up to 425 then down to 275. It was all over the place.
It was great. We ordered the part, it was shipped the next day and I had it the day after that. It was easy to install and the stove has worked perfect since. Color us happy!
I removed the back panel, about 6 screws, then found the probe which was attached by 2 screws. Unscrewed them and unplugged it. Plugged the new one in and replaced all the screws. The oven works like a charm now! No more F3 errors!
First I unpluggd the range and removed the back cover using a nut driver. Then I removed the knob by pulling (using a little force),Not very hard to do. I uscrewed two screws that hold the switch from the front of the range. Then I pulled the switch out about three inches and used pliers to disconnect the wires one at a time and connect them to the new switch. finally I finished the installation by reversing all the steps. Total time to install the switch took approximately 5(five) minutes.
I looked up the error code on line and found it was likely a faulty oven temp sensor. I was able to find the part and diagram at partselect.com and placed an order. The probe was in stock and arrived within a couple days. The repair took only about 20 minutes and works fine now. Thanks for your help partselect.com! Jim
The latch for locking the oven during the self-cleaning cycle was broke and would not lock
I first lifted the top of the stove up where the burners are then removed 7 philips head screws plus the 2 screws that hold the latch in place, which is just above the oven door. I pulled the old latch off the rod that goes to the lock motor.I hen put the new latch in and replced all the screws. Turned the self-cleaning cycle on and it worked perfectly.Thanks to the help of repair guy at Parts Select and the pictures made the repair simple and fast. Thank You Patrs Select
Took upper back off ( 6 screws), chech to be sure was right switch, pulled spade clip wires of, put on new switch, checked to see that it worked, replace cover.
Both front burners began heating too fast and too high. One damaged the finish on the splash pan.
At the Frigidaire parts website, I found the parts and saw that there are videos that show how to replace the burner controls. In brief: 1) Slide the range/oven out so you can get to the back of the control hood. 2) There are three screws that hold the cover in place (the video showed four). 2a) The video also suggests using a #1 square bit. I found that there was indeed a square hole in the caps of the screws, but they also had a hex head that a 1/4" hex nut driver fits. So I used that. 2b) Be careful taking out the last (top center) screw. When it comes free, the cover can drop and bruise or cut your foot or the floor. Having a helper is worth it! 3) The switch for the larger elements has a red dot on front and back. Match it with the one in place that has a red dot. The switch for the small element doesn't have a dot. 3a) Holding a new switch in your hand, remove one wire at a time from the switch in the control hood and put it in the same place on the new switch. I found that for my stove, there was a fixture holding two wires and another holding three wires. This made it impossible to put the wires on wrong. 3b) When all wires have been transferred, pull off the control knob in front and unscrew the two screws that hold the old switch in place. Take out the old switch and replace it with the new switch. 3c) Use the two screws to attach the new switch in its place and replace the control knob. 4) Repeat for as many switches as you purchased. I did all four. 5) Replace the cover. 6) Slide the range back into place.
I found black deposits on all the switches, that must have come from a contactor inside, so I was glad I replaced them all.
Another tip: while the unit is out, clean off the sides and back that you couldn't get to while it was in place. For us, this took as long or longer than the steps above for replacing the switches.
The repair went relatively easy especially after reading that another homeowner found the door to be "spring loaded". I was prepared and made sure I held onto things tightly.I removed the screws as I came to them and carefully removed the other 3 pieces of glass, finally reaching the inner panel. Putting that in and holding it as I put the next piece back was the most difficult. Once that was in place, the rest was just a matter of redoing what I undid. Needless to say, I was a bit nervous the first time I used the oven. No problems though, works like a charm! Thanks!
