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water fill overflows at times
thought it could be due to the overfill control switch,so ordered one and replaced one in the washer. However, it did not solve the problem. Having a repair company coming to look at the dishwasher. Tipped the washer on its back and switch was readily accessable. Only had to open plastic covering over the switch, disconnect the wires and install new switch and reconnect the wires.
I turned off the power to the dishwasher, removed the kick plate, raised the front levelers, disconnected the electric to the appliance, turned off the water supply to the appliance, disconnected the water supply, disconnected the drain system from the garbage disposal, unscrew the appliance from the countertop, then I remove the appliance from underneath the counter. I then tilted the appliance back and then in screwed the plastic retainers that held the heater element in place, removed the old one, replaced it with the new one in reversed the whole process
A plastic retainer pin for the bottom kick panel was missing.
simply line up the new pin with the rectangular slot in the kick panel and metal panel behind, slide the pin in and turn it with a flat blade screw driver. NOTE: the original pin was black. A black replacement part cost $29 plus shipping! A knock-off pin was only $6 plus shipping. I got the cheap one and colored it with a black Sharpee marker before installation.
Replacement parts from factory installed using u tube support video
Also replaced stop ends for top rack by removing old clip in to push down and lined up to secure in slots at end of rack, notice new plastic parts are installed by pushing hardware into slots downward until they clip into place
Thanks to everyone for posting their experiences on changing the heater element. The most difficult part of the repair was getting the dishwasher out of the cabinet. I didn't know that I should disconnect the water line underneath the sink and this would make the removal easier. Also, because the copper water line going to the dishwasher was kinked, I ended up changing it with a flexible steel braided line.....much easier to install.
Once the dishwasher was out of the cabinet, I turned it over and easily removed the clips that held the heater element in.
I would definetly recommend people doing this repair themselves, it will save you a lot of money!!!!!
A wheel on the upper rack had fallen off. The wheel mount had worn.
Because the dishwasher is 15 years old I decided to replace all 4 wheel mounts. They were all worn and not clipping to the rack firmly. The repair is obvious. No tools required. Remove the stops on the end of the rack slides (manually squeeze the top of the stop and pull up, or you could use needle nose pliers) and slide the rack out. Just remove the old wheel mounts and clip the new ones in place. Slide the rack back in and snap in the stops.
A mouse was chewed through the hose and ate part of it. Di
Disconnected the damaged hose extension from the dishwasher outlet drain hose and the connection to the sink drain. Removed two clamps. One a spring clamp and the other a screw clamps. Connected the new extension hose with a spring clamp to the dishwasher outlet drain hose. Connected the other end to the sink drain with a screw clamp. Checked for leaks. Good to go!
Friction sleeve came apart ....would not hold door in place
Pull dishwasher out a few inches. Disconnect spring from plastic connector with long nose pliers. Remove connector. Replace friction sleeve. Replace connector.Reconnect spring to plastic connector. This completes repair.
transfer wheel racks, rack height adjuster and upper wash arm to new rack
The repair was similar to the very good video provided by PartSelect. However, I did make a few changes. The new rack was slightly different in the front side compared to the old rusted rack. After I removed the old rack from the dishwasher, I placed the two racks side-by -side to make sure they were compatible. They were identical in the rear structure and overall size, so I proceeded to change out the wheel racks, rack height adjusters and upper wash arm to the new rack. I suggest transferring each part one at a time so you can get the spacing correct. Also, in my case, many of the items needed to be washed with water to remove soap buildup in these parts before moving to the new rack. I would also suggest putting the upper wash arm (needed in this case) on the new rack last. The total job took me about an hour including washing or rinsing all parts and reassembly. This is an easy job, just take your time and do one item at a time so nothing gets mixed up. I used a drill driver to remove a total of 4 Phillip head screws for the rack height adjusters but a regular Phillip head screw driver would work as well.
Only one friction sleeve was broken. So I pulled out the dishwasher to see how the one on the other side went on. It was very easy to replace and I replaced both. Unit works fine now.
Wheel on upper dishwasher tray broke from other part holding tray up on one side
I ordered part # PS11745459 - Upper Dishrack Wheel Mount. The hardest part for me at first was to remove the Rack Trap Stop. My husband was able to remove it with a screwdriver and also put it back on by hand after. He said I didn't pull it hard enough. Well once that was done, I slid off the wheel that had broke off the part I bought as replacement. The second hardest part for us both was to wedge in the piece. You have to put it in from the bottom up without the wheel slid in yet and position the two notch grooves sideways to the basket and twist in. A little tricky but easy once it's done. Part also arrived quickly.
