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Dishwasher would not start & green "Clean" light was flashing
After reading customer notes regarding the same problem I was having I ordered A new Heater Element & a High Limit Thermostat. I also ordered a Heating Element Nut and Rubber Washer in case I needed them. It took me quite some time to remove the dishwasher from under my counter. Once the unit was out and prepared to service it actually took only a few minutes to install the new Heater Element. I did't need the washer or extra Nut. I also decided to try the unit without replacing the thermostat. I cleared the diagnostics by pressing the "HEATED DRY, "NORMAL", "HEATED DRY", "NORMAL" buttons. After the controller reset the dishwasher was ready to run.
My husband did this. He turned the dishwasher upside-down, disconnected the wires,and unbolted the heater.He put in the new heater (bolted,wired) and tested the current. Voila!
It is a small plastic piece which serves as a stop on the right side of the upper rack. It is the correct part because it is identical to the left one of the same type. I tried clamping down with a pair of pliers but I am afraid of breaking it. With shipping this two inch piece of plastic cost $20, so I do not want to crack it. I am at a loss as to how to sit in in place.
Top rack of dishwasher kept pulling all the way out
Our dishwasher's top rack would pull too far out which made it hard to stay in alignment. It had lost it's track stop. I easily ordered the part from PartSelect, and it came more quickly than I expected; I clicked it in place and it runs like new. It's wonderful to deal with a company that knows the frustration of not having your appliance in good working orfer. Thank you. Sue M Masdsachusetts
Could not take apart the upper rack on my whirlpool dishwasher to replace its wheels to transport its upper rack. The received parts did not match the old ones. Called parts and they suggested these new parts remanufactured and changed from the old ones but they had not been notified. Brought to professional mechanics and they figured it out. Bullshit parts company!!
First I got online to troubleshoot issue to save mysel from a service call. One of the first UTube videos, a young man said usually the main issue was the lever. He pushed down on the floater. If it didn't click, than the lever below needed to be replaced. Most important to turn off the circuit breaker before beginning the repair. I got on whirlpool.com, Part Select, ordered the lever, which was under $10. And once delivered, was able to switch out the old lever with the new replacement. Part Quote video took me through the process step by step. The lever package was marked that usually it was only 2% of the time that replacing the lever fixed the issue. Of course, I was thrilled, my dishwasher was up and running again. Thank you.
easy the sensor was on the right side, and easy to get to, I turn off the power, turned off the water, and pulled it out, the first thing I saw was the yellow wires and plug. took about 5 minutes, to replace it.
-Unplugged the dishwasher. -Removed dish racks, filters and spray arms. -removed drain pump and drain lines. -unplugged turbidity sensor and power connectors. -unlocked the 3 locking connectors, removed the pump and motor assembly. - cleaned every component with soap and water. - applied rinse aid to the motor and pump assembly gasket. -placed pump and motor assembly into the correct position and had a helper hold the assembly down while I locked in the connectors. -work backwards.
Pulled dishwasher out of compartment, removed all parts underneath. removed inner parts, removed pump assembly. Installed new pump assembly and grommet. Reassembled in reverse order, test ran and unit was operating normal and no leaks.
