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The burner didn't heat to full temperature.
First turn off the power to the stove/oven. Next I removed the 4 screws located on the bottom surface of the control panel. You need to open the oven door to see/access them. The control panel can then be removed by rotating the bottom outward which allows the flange on the top to disengage. Next remove the two screws that hold the switch to the control panel. Note which wire goes to which spade connector. A quick photo can help. Undo the wires. Remove the old switch. Reinstall the wires. Mount the new switch to the control panel. Mount the control panel back into the stove/oven. Turn on the power and test. The burner now works as new!
I found that the one of the burner Cartridge terminal blocks wiring was too short for my Jenn-Air JED8130. The original ones I removed had wiring that was 4" longer than the replacements. As a result, I could only replace 1 terminal block and had to re-use one of the old ones for the front 6" burner. The surface elements and drop bowls were easy and accurate.
Burner receptacle had malfunctioned and been removed
10 Minutes for a stove my landlord thought was not fixable (repairman had already cut the wires to the element and capped them)! The delivery person handed me the package, I got out the single tool needed, installed the part, put away the tool, cleaned my hands, and put a pot of water on the stove to boil for pasta. 10 minutes!
Well, I had to search a bit deeper in the internet to find out that the problem was not with the surface burner (which did look a bit burned out anyway) but rather with the surface burner switch (Part Number: PS336885) which must have ben damaged by the heat of the closest burner. If this problem would have been better documented (or if I would have searched more carefully) I would have saved over $40 with parts (Surface Burner Receptacle Kit) that I didn't quite need. Repairing the switch was very easy, thanks also to the available video , even though the stove used on this video (front panel) didn't quite match mine (top-back panel).
Turned off power to the range. Fan switch shaft had broken from the switch itself (rust) so I could not turn on or off the exhaust fan. Had to remove all the burner control knobs from the control panel. Then I removed all the screws holding the burner switches in place which totaled 8 screws in all (T20 star bit). Be careful removing the glass cover as it may be stuck in place from grease buildup. There were two screws holding the fan switch in place - removed them and switch comes loose. Then there are two wires attached to the bottom of the fan switch (remember where they go L & R). Unplug one at at time and place on new switch before removing the second one so you keep them straight where they go. If you are sure all is good, screw everything back together and turn on power and test. And Voila! You are done.
In response to your question.......everything went perfectly!! The reason?? I read the directions that were very easy to follow. It was a quick, easy repair, and the stove burner is working like new.
Removed 4 screws, tilted cover up and lifted out, removed wires from switch, removed 2 screws holding switch, lifted switch out. Replaced with new switch, connected wires, secured cover with the 4 screws. It worked!
Shut off breaker, removed the top by unscrewing the retaining screws and removing all knobs and grommets. Removed control from top panel by unscrewing, removed 5 wires and placed on new control. I then remounted the control, placed the top in its well, fastened. Replaced the retaining screws in the hold down strip and replaced grommets and knobs. Returned power to panel by turning the breaker on and tested. Used later that evening to grill 2 panini.
The old grease filter was removed and the entire downdraft was cleaned. The new filter was slipped in. It is so nice to have the old one out. I am so appreciative of finding this part. :-)
The repair itself is really quite easy. Cut the wires, strip the ends and attach the new receptacle with wire nuts. The hard part was getting to it. My cooktop is about 30 years old, so I had to wade through piles of nasty built up grease. Some of the sheet metal screws were unworkable, so I had to cut them off with a Dremel tool. Not a pretty picture, but that's how repair work is on old stuff.
The video on your website showed me how to take out 1 screw, cut the existing wires and strip the ends. The kit came with 2 porcelan wire nuts to re-connect the wires and it was done. Less than 10 minutes. It saved me $100.00 to get it repaired.I bought 2 in case I need another one in the future.They only cost $11.00 each. Awesome website.
