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Leveling leg sheared off
Put machine on dolly. Tilted it on its back. Put screw driver into sheared leg and unscrewed broken leveling leg. Then screwed new leg in and tilted machine back up.
Pry up top from front remove 2 phillip screws at lower front panel slip belt under tub pulley then around motor pulley push belt tensioner towards back of machine slide belt onto tensioner pulley. (Done)
I just popped up the top front using a large straight (slotted) screw driver, then removed the 2 screws at the bottom front, then the whole front panel popped down about a half inch to be lifted out of the way. I found the old drive belt way down under the motor (still attached as normal), very near the floor and removed the worn out belt by hand, and replaced it with the new belt by hand also. The spring loaded belt tightener- idler wheel makes this a very simple process to accomplish. Then, I replaced the front panel-- all done. Works like new.
Bottom "Screw", which is the front leg of the washer was broken.
Tilted the clothes washer back to provide easy access. Then after scrubbing the floor - which took most of the time of the repair, screwed out the broken leg and screwed in the new leg or SCREW. Easy peasey.
Washer would only let cold water in,then not fully cycle
Disconnect power,take water hoses off using pliers,they are really tight,remove 2 philips head screws,pull 2 wire connectors off and water fill hose squeezing wire clamp and sliding clamp back on hose.reverse to install.Works like a champ.
Replacing all springs. Able to replace 2 short springs and front spring. Can't get to ones in back of washer tub. Unable to use strenght in arms to remove old springs. Help videos were great. Saved money by doing repairs myself.
Washer pumps and drains but does not agitate or spin.
Purchased both the belt and idler pulley. Bought the idler pulley "to have it if it were needed" since it was only a $15 part.
Watched two videos provided on PartSelect for our model number with our symptoms. Both showed an easy access of idler pulley at the front of the washer. My emailed invoice also contained links to the video for each part.
Getting the panels off went exactly like the video. However, the idler pulley was nearly on the back side of the tub assembly/transmission and NOT easily accessed as shown in the video.
I replaced the belt and ran the washer without replacing the idler pulley. Since it performed very well agitated/spun I elected to avoid the daunting looking task of idler pulley replacement. Hung it up for "just in case" future use....again not hard to do at only $15.
I looked up the repair on You Tube and it looked easy! Take off the top of the machine (unplug and disconnect water first), 2 wire connections and 2 screws to mount. The only problem I had was screwing the mounting plate on the machine. It needed some help enlarging the hole a tad, I used an awl. Reconnect the water and plug in.This Granny rocks!
we took the hoses off then unscrewed the bracket that was connected to the part and then once out we put bracket onto the new part and screwed it back to the washer connected the hose back and WOW the water was flowing
We have a washer/dryer stack type. For a week or so, my wife mentioned that washer is louder than normally is, shortly, the washer stopped spinning and the clothes were finishing soaking wet.
I opened the front panel sheet and saw the broken belt, ordered the belt online. The belt arrived in 2 days, and the actual belt-replacement took 10 minutes. The washer functional like new.
Poped up top, removed front pannel (2 phillip head screws) observed failed belt. Replaced belt. Tensioner can be held back by hand so it was easy. Works great. Part Select Rocks! I put in the model number and bam, there was my needed part, 3 days later it was in my hands. This was after me wasting time driving around town trying to find it at home depot type stores to no avail. I'll never do that again. This website makes repairing appliances a snap. Gotta love on-line shopping! woo hoo