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Burner no longer worked.
First I removed a screw that held the element in place then disconnected the two wires . Then I just reattached the two wires put the screw back in place and was done in about 10 minutes. Fairly easy fix, I had this go out a few years ago and had a repairman fix it, and saw how easy it was, so this time I did it myself. Easy job!!
I started by removing the door, then trying to remove all of the screws in the oven casing. Of course the very middle screw in the bottom of the oven was rusted and dammged by use. I had to use a drill bit and remove the old screw. After dissasembly of the oven casing, I found that the lip that supports the gasket was rusted and burnt away about 3/4 in. I placed the new gasket in and found that when closed it covered this defect and sealed. I reassembled and cheked for operation.Ok! Imortant--remove the elements before removing oven casing.
The burners were old and did not fit well on the stove
I just had to pull out the old burner and straighten the prongs for the new burner and insert, The prongs of the new burner were slightly bent in shipment, but were easy to straighten with the pliers. The burners were sent in a bag and not a box -- therefore the prongs were easily bent. I was very pleased that I (73 year old lady) was able to fix my stove without a repairman. Saved $$$
1. Shut the breaker off; Jenn-Air's design will have you working around hot leads if you don't. 2. Raise the control panel 3. Remove burner and unscrew the burner connector; trace the wires back to the control panel bottom and remove them 4. On the replacement connector, add the electrical for the control panel. These are not included and can be found at any hardware store; they are a standard size. 5. Connect the new wires and put everything back together. 6. Reset the break and test.
I first removed the back panel that covers the switches from back of stove; then I removed the wires and put them on the same numbered wires on the new switch; put the new switch in place with the wires connected to it; installed the 2 front screws and put the back cover on again & it took about 10 min and saved about $300.
The Broiler element split after oven self-cleaning
We at first thought the replacement could be done by just removing 2 screws. When in fact it was necessary to pull the oven from the cabinet, remove the rear metal shield in order to unplug the element. The job went rather smoothly at a considerably less cost than if I had contacted a repair service which would have upped the price of the element plus the cost for the service call.
Turned off oven power.Removed oven heat shield, element support clips and element mounting plate screws. Disconnected three element power wires and ground wire. Removed old element. Reversed removal procedure for new element install. Piece of cake.
Of course, power off first, then I removed the old one and inserted the new one, make sure everything in right place, then turn on power, simple as 1-2-3.
Repair went fine, insert helped, just take your time and remember the way you took out. Started without takeing door off, I am to short and door comes off easy, unscrew the two screws holding element leaving one not quite off then the back two screws then go back to upper screw remove and element will pull out, remove 3 wires remembering the order, Wiring is a little tricky (in the stove-just 3 plugins), just pay attention and will go smooth. Then remove element and go backwards and presto your done.
remove two bracket screws, and remove bracket, the remove two mount screws for element. then remove the element. installed the element in reverse order that it was removed.
All went well except for error on instruction sheet. Ground wire used on earlier Models attached to the ground lug is no longer used?? and should be removed!!! Guess what the ground wire has to be used or the element will not heat up.Soooo someone at the mfg. has no ideal what they are talking about,You have to ground the element or it will not come on.