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No water to dish washer
After figuring out the problem wasn't the water inlet switch, I replaced the switch assembly for the water level float. Cut off supply water to dishwasher, removed the 2 screws holding switch assembly, and installed new switch. 15 minutes, very easy job.
Dishwasher was growing mold on inside lid door. Also the glasses were not looking clean. Appeared as if they were not getting rinsed well enough.
First I removed the two screws that hold the lower front cover of the dishwasher to get under the dishwasher. Then I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I then opened the dishwasher door and removed the old element and replaced it with the new element. I closed the dishwasher door and reconnected the two wires making sure that I put the proper wire on the proper post. I then put the two screws back on the element to hold it in place Next I replaed the cover on the front and tested the dishwasher for heat by running it empty.
Removed eight screws holding front panel to door; placed blanket below it beforehand based on tip read in another person’s post. Removed two screws holding switch in place and then transferred four wire connectors one at a time. Replaced latch assembly with two screws. Replaced front door panel by reinstalling eight previously removed screws then did a load of dishes.
I was impressed with the user friendly format of your web site. I was able to quickly look up the part I needed. It arrived much faster than I expected after my order was placed.
I have already recommended the site to a friend needing parts for a Gibson dishwasher.
Dishwasher was leaking at the lower left side of the door.
Probably the easiest repair job that you could encounter. I removed the old gasket from the door frame. Cut the new gasket to length and pushed it into the door frame.
With an explosive bang, the spring on one side of the dishwasher door broke. The door weighed like a million pounds and was difficult to open and close.
I found the parts needed on Part Select and read comments by users. I took the suggestion to buy both springs at the same time and the door linkages too. Although they were pricey, the parts arrived in a few days and were absolutely perfect. To my suprise and delight, the entire fix for the broken spring and link and the opposite spring and link were easily accomplished in less than 10 minutes. The links just hook directly onto a small hook on the door and the springs have specially bent ends that fid the linkage and then the adjustable length holes on the door. It made me feel quite manly for about fifteen minutes as I made everyone in the house open and close the dishwasher door several times.
Dishwasher would not start; no control lights illuminated.
Replaced door switch as follows: (1) turned off circuit breaker powering unit; (2)removed six screws holding front control panel cover to chasis and pulled cover out slightly to expose switch; (3) labelled four connectors on wires to switch with marking pen; (4) disconnected the four wires: (5) removed two screws holding switch to chasis; (6)installed new switch with the two screws; (7) reconnected the four wires; (8)replaced cover panel and (9) turned circuit breaker back on.
Fully open dishwasher door to horizontal position, remove lower dishwasher rack and relocate to another temp location, grab old lower door seal from right or left corner and pull completely out of door, lay the old bottom seal aside facing the same direction as once installed (seal has a notched side which faces the right side of door), match direction of the new seal with the old seal (match the notched side of seal to the right side of door), gently push the seal into the door starting on the right side (notched side of seal fits tightly into a receiving area inside the door), and finally push the remaining portion of the seal into door (aligning with the right side already properly seated inside dishwasher door). Close dishwasher and run water cycle to confirm leak.
I had to remove the dishwasher from under the counter. I then had to unscrew (from the bottom) the bolts that held the heater in place. After that I ran into a problem of disconnecting the wires that ran to the heater. I did not want to "force" the wires off and I was unsure how exactly to remove them. I figured out that they are really hard to pull off but there are no clips holding them on, so you won't break anything off. Once I got the wires off, I was able to screw the nuts onto the new heater and put it back into place.
Removed the dishwasher from under the counter, and ran to diagnose the problem. Drain pump ran, but circulating motor did not. Ordered the replacement circ pump / motor assy, and slid the washer back in its hole. When the new motor arrived, I slid it back out, disconnected everything, and drained the water from the bottom. Then I tipped the washer on its side, removed the old motor and installed the new one following included instructions. I did have to use the new wiring harness, and found the new one had only two leads where the original had three. I connected the blue and white leads, and left the original green loose. All in all, it was an easy repair that could be done by anyone with a basic set of skills.
Place spray arm into receptacle. Take nut and screw on being careful not to over tighten. This will strip the spray arm and the same problem will occur. Easy fix!
The Parts finder was the big help. After that all that was needed was to loosen the clamps and replace the old hose with the new one A piece of cake. Slide the washer back into place and replace the screws that hold it to the counter. Out and back in, 30min. top end to complet the job
Turned off power to dishwasher.Used a screw driver to rermoved the outer top of door.Used star wrench to remove door latch.Repalced wire for wire on door latch.Reinstalled door latch with star wrench.Reinstalled outer top of door with screw driver.Turned power on.Tryed door lath.Operation is Ok.Ran dish washer.No leaks.Operation is OK.