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F2 error code when oven was set at a higher temperature.
I pretty much followed the youtube video posted under the part that I needed. Turned off electricity to that area of the house. Unplugged stove. Took out the old sensor, pushed new sensor cord through the back hole. I did put a small amount of tape,so I could pull it through from the back better. It was impossible to get the clip disconnected in the back and the new clip didn't match up correctly anyway. Ended up having to cut the wires and strip them. I twisted them together and put on the ceramic wire nuts on. Reversed ever thing I did and F3 appeared. Looked that code up on internet. It was from an open or shorted oven. Suggested I check the connections. Pulled stove out again, unscrewed caps on wires and noticed the sensor's wire had another cloth type coating on it. I gentle cut that off, twisted and capped wires again. Plugged in oven, turn on electricity, and tried out stove. Everything is working just fine. Everything took a little longer because this was first time doing this type of repair.
Remove the door. Just open a little and pull up. Removed racks. Removed 3 screws with nutdriver. Pulled out housing. Disconnected 2 wires. Assembled new housing with with bulb receptacle and gasket. Reconnected wires and crimped a little to make them snug. Pushed housing back into hole. Put 3 screws back in, inserted bulb and cover. Slid door back on and done. 30 minutes at most.
Deflector oven/gas flame deflector replaced due to hole melted from glowbar igniter
Removed oven convection fan cover for more room to remove/replace lower oven bottom. Deflector is attached underneath oven bottom and you will need new self tapping sheet metal screws to replace old ones. My deflector actually had hole melted in it from glowbar igniter directly underneath it. Glowbar remains white hot until selected oven temp is reached...poorly designed.
Wall oven: light flickered or did not work in a loose poreclain socket.
Shut off power at the panel to the electric oven. Removed 2 phillips screws holding bulb unit in place in the top of teh oven chamber. One wire was so frayed it came out of the push on connector. Stripped off insulation and reinstalled onto the connector, using pliers to snug the wires down. Installed the new porcelain socket from Parts Select, replaced the unit in the top of the oven unit. Installed a new bulb, then snapped the new glass housing into place with the existing retaining wire clip. Presto: works like it's brand new. Thanks to Parts Select for the right parts, and for such quick delivery. I will use them again!
Began by removing the front panel where the range handles are located. There were 7 screws located under the panel which required opening of the oven hood. All of this removal was a waste of time, because the range top was on hindges. The only thing holding ithe range top down was the accumulated grease and oil along the edges. I used a screwdriver to sperate the range panel. There were side supports to hold the the top up, like a car hood support. Replacing the electrode was a snap after that. Overall, it took less than 30 mins but it would have taken less than 10 if I hadn't removed the front panel.
Remove light bail, glass cover held by two nut screws. Pull socket, removed clips in back, replaced wire connectors, placed new socket in, then glass cover and bail. Wire connected in back, cover plate replaced.
The problem was the oven rack and broiler pan was missing when we bought the house,
I carefully opened the oven door and slid the rack into the groove taking great care not to dislodge the heating element nor to burn myself on the cold oven door. I then pulled open the drawer on the oven and, again, with great care placed the broiler pan into the drawer and slid the drawer closed, again taking great pains to make sure I did not burn myself on the cold over. The reason for the length of repair time is I did not open the box for 2 days. Thanks for the laugh!!!!!!!!!!
First diagnose where the smell of natural gas is coming from, mine was the range. On my model oven there is a small red shut off valve on the regulator. Turn that valve of and see if the smell goes away. If it does then the problem is with the Dual Oven Safety Valve. Order a new valve. First shut off gas to oven and disconnect gas line. I found it easier to replace the valve with the oven on its side. Once you find the valve location loosen the 3 gas lines and remove two mounting screws that hold the valve to the oven frame. Remove old valve and install new in reverse order. Be careful when reconnecting the 3 gas lines not to cross thread or over torque. Reconnect gas line and turn on gas.
Remove grates,pans and disk. Remove allen screws at each burner. Take a flat blade screwdriver and press in on tabs on each side of front of stove to depress keepers and lift top up. Remove wire, and keeper on bottom of electrode. Reverse for install.
The whole process was very easy! I just got the model number and bought a new rack and silverware holder on,one. There was no assembly needed so I just popped them in and replaced the old ones! Very easy to do!
placed them in propper position we had been to apliance stores and told they would need to order them and it may take up to two weeks to get them. we ordered them from you and they were here in a matter of days, and the price was the best we had been quoted. thank you so much