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Oven would not light or heat, Igniter WAS WORKING
Oven would not light upon setting for oven heat-up. Igniter would glow, but no gas flow. Gas Valve safety not sensing enough current draw from igniter to open gas valve. Original igniter measured 175 Ohms on Volt-Ohmmeter. New Igniter measured 74 Ohms before installation and use. Installed and spliced into existing wires using good quality wire nuts and tucked wiring into wire areas ensuring it was away from burner flue. Oven lit on first start-up! Problem fixed! Easiest to get to by removing broiler drawer, pressing catch tangs in from outside rails using a small screwdriver. 1 screw of 2 on igniter mount was stripped and difficult to remove, but working with pliers and nut driver was able to remove it with some difficulty. New Igniter hangs fine with 1 screw. .
The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.
since I cannot phone you and my email to you says "no recipient" this is my contact
I bought and paid for 4 drip pans for my Tappan stove. I received 4 metal ones. With your authorization I returned them, paying $18.00 postage. Since it was your mistake a believe you should reimburse me for that expense.
I followed Ryan's instructions and had no problem following them. HOWEVER, I ENCOUNTERED A MAJOR PROBLEM when I put it all back together: the control buttons wouldn't work. I took it apart again and examined the old one, which had plastic pins in the holes which the buttons were supposed to push. The new part didn't have the pins. I wanted to remove the pins from the old part and put them in the new one. This was difficult, and I broke the first one when I removed it. (I ended up super-gluing it together successfully.) In order to remove the other pins, I pried and pinched with needle-nose pliers to remove the plastic collar around the pin, then the pin came out easily and could be inserted in the new part, pushing hard until it clicked in place. Then when I put everything together it worked fine.
Replaced the ingintion module, still did not work, replaced the burner complete with new ingiter , it now works but another one quit . the front right one has 5 ohms resistance ,replaced with new one with 0 ohms, the back left has 2 ohms resistance and now it does not work , will need to replace that burner allso. too bad you can't buy just the spark module for the burner.
first I removed oven draw for access, then removed the two screws with a nut driver, next removed the two wire nuts and the old element was free. Replaced new element in reverse steps of removing old and the new part ignited the stove within 30 seconds, but now I have no excuse for not fixing dinner!! Thanks for promt shipping, it arrived early than anticipated.
use #1 square drive: remove screws from back, remove 2 top screws from top, remove 4 or 5 screws from front cover and remove front cover. remove 4 screws from old timer clock, tranfer wires. Now, I don't know why they don't include the push pins on the new part, but you have to disassemble the old clock to extract the old push pins that activate the micro switches (putty knife helped). These are one way pins so don't break them. I pulled the rubber covers off the glass front and started reassembly. I put the rubber covers on last and it was done. If I had not cleaned the stove and had noticed the push pins on the first attempt I would of been done in 30 minutes.
I removed the oven door using a phillips screwdriver. It was very easy because I didn't have to worry about the door hinges springing the door back. I'm not really handy and it went very easy.
Your website is great...easy and it literally took me no mote than 5 minutes to find what I needed and order...and received it VERY quickly. Must say I was dreading going to some parts house that we have in our town in bad area, and searching on dusty shelves for what I needed...am so glad I found you!!
First, I read about the experiences of others who did this repair.
Then I removed the oven door by removing the single screw at each hinge - visible when the door is open - using a #2 Phillips screwdriver (the only tool needed for this repair). I placed the door on the kitchen table and removed the two screws at the inside top of the door - they also hold the handle onto the door.
I placed the four screws removed from the inside corners of the door -- into one corner of a tray I used to hold the parts in order. Then I removed the eight screws from the perimeter of the door and placed them into another corner of the holding tray. Then I turned the door over and removed the outside part of the door from the inside - as in removing the cover from a box.
Then I removed four screws holding the middle and outside glass panels and placed them in another corner of the parts tray. Then I removed two screws holding the steel panel against the glass. Then I removed the broken glass from the bottom of the tray. That's when I discovered I had ordered the wrong glass panel.
I called the PartSelect number to return the glass, and while discussing how to return the part, I asked if I had to call another number to get the correct part. The lady assured me she could process my order for the correct part. She was very knowledgable about the system and quickly found the correct part from the schematic. I received the replacement part 24 hours later and installed it within 20 minutes.
Overall a success story. Excellent service and easy work.