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Water valve was leaking
The u tube instructions were exactly what is needed. I had to cut off the old plastic pipes. My pipe had threaded connectors. Pex push on connection is super easy. You don't really need a block of wood to cut it if you have a sharp utility blade. If if you are sure this is the problem this is a really easy fix. Steps 1 turn off water at wall unplug electric also 2. Disc line at valve on refrigerator 3. Remove 2 screws holding valve 4. Pull valve out and remove plastic hoses and electric connections pay attention to color of pipe and electric connection. Mine were color coded. Had to cut off thread connectors. Reattach in reverse order or do one at a time. Check for leaks.
Refrigerator wasn't "winterized" ..This is a summer home, the cold winter cracked the water valve
I put the new unit up to the old one to see exactly how it goes, took the 2 screws holding the unt off...Took the 3 water lines off with adjustable wrench, put back exactly the same way and it worked with no leaks
Repair was easy. Unplug refrigerator, turn off water to ice maker, remove back panel, disconnect water inlet valve, disconnect water supplies and electrical connections. Cut ends off tubing to modify to new part connections, connect tubing, connect electrical supplies, reinstall back panel, plug refrigerator in, turn water supply back on. We made sure that there was no ice build up in the supply tube into the ice maker and made sure that everything worked correctly before putting it all back together. It was an easy repair.
i only ordered 1, so i replaced each 1 then moved to the next. still no light, so it must be someting else. will try to check the wires with a volt meter to see if i have power next. something wierd happen, when i accidently touch the back of the led board, it lit up, small but still light up. hoping that means the led board is goo, must be in the wiring. i saw it had a main led board so will check the power to that.
We replaced the damper, but it didn't fix the problem. We then purchased and replaced the thermistor. (We had previously replaced the defrost thermostat). The refrigerator side is now cooling better, but not enough. The damper doesn't seem to be opening. So we have now unplugged the damper and left the opening between the refrigerator propped open and the refrigerator side is now cool enough. (We had previously tried keeping the damper open before we replaced the thermistor and the refrigerator didn't cool off. So the thermistor did fix something, but the damper doesn't seem to have been the problem).
removal of the old valve to identify the problem took the most time. Once the new valve came it it was easy. NOTE: the old one had threaded connectors, and the new one is press/fit so the ends of the tubing need to be cut. The color coding and size matching are great.
Simple, I had a repair man come over and diagnose the problem. After confirming, I ordered the part and replaced it. Need to make sure you get the ice build up out of the fitting tnat goes from the back of the fridge connection at the top and the filler tube inside the unit, mine was iced over. Repair man wanted to charge me $250.00... with his service call and buying the part, it cost $120
Removed lower cardboard cover, shut off water supply valve, unpluged frig. Used wrench to remove 3/8 water line from water valve, removed electrical connectors from solenoids, used fingers to unscrew water connections from valve.