Replaced the old bins with the new bins...The most important part of the story was finding this website and locating and ordering the necessary components...that was amazing - a few clicks of the mouse and my new parts were on their way.
The evaporator coil in the freezer would cake up with ice, choking off the cold air flow into the lower refridgerator compartment. A repair man had previously replaced the defrost heater element, but this did not fix the problem.
First, unplug the refrigerator since you're working with live wires.
Remove the 4 Philips sheet metal screws holding the plastic housing that holds the temperature control to the top of the refrigerator compartment. Pull the housing down then out since there is a tube on the housing where the water flows out the back of the refrigerator during the defrost cycle.
Remove the 2 Philips screws holding the defrost timer on the plastic housing. Pull the connectors off the old timer and attach them in exactly the same positions on the new defrost timer.
Attach the new defrost timer to the plastic housing with the 2 screws.
Reinstall the plastic housing, making sure the water tube is inserted into the back of the refrigerator wall.
Test the light socket first with a bulb that you know is good. If the light still does not come on, unplug the refrigerator, remove the switch by inserting a very small, thin, flathead screwdriver alongside it and pull the switch out slowly with your other hand. There are two wires there. Remove them gently with some needle nose pliers. If you want to test to see if the switch is defective, take a insulated jumper wire, and attach it between the two wires. Plug the refrigerator back in and see if the light comes on. If the light does come on, replace with a new switch by re-attaching the wires and placing it back in the hole firmly.
Removed (unsnapped) plastic cover from back of refrigerator ( inside freezer compartment), determined that the fan was not turning, removed 4 screws from the aluminum back plate in freezer and tilted it down. Removed 2 screws with a nut driver, this allowed the fan to be removed, unpluged fan motor from the bace of the freezer and removed fan. Installed new motor and spent $38.00 to repair the refrigerator that would have cost me severial hundred dollars to replace. Thanks for the help
The bottom of Refrigerator would not get below 48 degress. Freeezer was working fine.
First I unplugged fridge. I then removed cover that keeps fan protected. I then removed 2 screws that hold the evaporator motor in place. I then removed 3 wires running to motor. Very easy to remove, just pulled connections apart. I then replace the old motor with new.
The Sears repairman wanted to charge me $359 to repair. I did repair for under $40! Amazing what you can save if you have the time and knowlege to do it yourself.
Snap out fan cover, remove four 1/4" screws, remove back cover, remove defective fan motor, remove fan blade, install new motor and blade, strip wires and hook up with wire nuts, reinstall back cover, snap in fan cover, and plug in fridge.
- Unsnapped old light socket from top of Frig - Disconnected elect wires - Reconnected elect wires to new light socket - Snapped new socket in place - Done in less than 2 min.
first i removed the four screws that hold the shelve in place disconnected the wire replace both diffuser-air,reconnected the wire and replaced the screws
Removed the cover inside the freezer. Found out that the motor/fan was not working. Ordered through PartSelect. Got the parts in 3 days. Installed it for less than 30 minutes. Very easy. It saved me hundreds of dollars. We considered buying a new fridge but not anymore. , it only cost me $70 including shipment charges. (Make sure you unplug the appliance first before opening the cover. Remember safety first.)
It was fairly easy. Only had to remove the back cardboard. Remove 3 screws and the power plug. Replacing the screws took a little time the motor mount didn't seem to be tapped exactly for the screws supplied and it was in a tight area. Its working great now.