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broken deli drawer and gasket distended and out of place at corner
My husband and I were online pricing new refrigerators ($1100 and up plus an otherwise okay frig to add to the landfill). I had a moment of clarity and tried a parts search and found this site. I decided we were NOT going to replace it, we would fix it.
I pulled out the entire shelf and unscrewed the rail. I manuevered in the new rail and screwed it down. I returned the shelf and now I no longer have the deli drawer drop out of the tracks.
To replace the gasket, the worse part was having to empty the contents of the door and removed all of the 30+ screws that hold it in place. I positioned the gasket over the edge of the door inset, pressed it back up against the door with the gasket in place, lined up the screw holes and started turning the screwdriver. I screwed in the top 2 corners first so they would hold the door inset in place from that point.
The instructions stated that silicon sealant should be applied between the gasket and the door, particularly at the corners, and I did this, particularly since the corner pulling out was why I was replacing the gasket in the first place.
However after I returned all the screws to the proper place and turn the refrigerator back on, I noticed condensation around the seal. I realized after a few days that I had silicon on the gasket itself and this was causing an imperfect seal. I cleaned all the little wisps of silicon off the gasket and the frig has been fine ever since.
Freezer starter acumulating lots of ice and the lower part of fridge was not cooling at all.
just took the back cover of the freezer of and then the fan. To do this, I just removed like four bolts at the corners and then four bolts that attached the fan to the cover. At the end, I just unplugged the cables. I got my new fan the very next day, which was like extremly fast, plug in the cables and attached the fan to the cover and then attached the cover to the original place. It's a pretty simple repair. My fridge is now working like it should be.
The end caps worked perfectly for both the Frigidaire and Westinghouse fridges. Just pulled out the old end caps and then literally just pushed in the new ones (remember to attach the shelf bar before attaching the second end cap!). The pieces arrived quicker than expected. Thanks Partselect!
The site offers a video for this part which worked perfectly. In addition to replacing the part, since the cardboard panel was off, we also cleaned all the dust off of the coils which someone recommended to do annually.
Simple switch repair: Unplug fridge, pull down to remove switch assembly, slip contacts off. Reverse with replacement switch. HOWEVER, check first to see if the bulb filament might be broken, as this could cause the same symptom. OR in my case, the light socket connection was the culprit. Check that too before ordering a replacement switch.
removed doors and took out screws from hinge and replaced hinge. works great, all costs under $20, applinance store said no parts available only wanted to sell a new appliance, no wonder they are all losing bussiness when they have custmor service like this!
Removed old gasket. tried to mount new gasket with a few screws, but weight of new gasket created a sag, so I removed door and laid on a table. Installed new gasket, as it layed flat and square on the table. Installation became a simple job.
Did the obvious. Removed the stick-out cover, then the back of the freezer wall, after taking the bad evaporator fan out. Replaced the old motor with the new one, stuck the fan blades back on, and put the replacement back in place. Checked to see that the new motor and fan, before final hook up, had no issues. That was a success. However, when I put the parts in place, I had some significant vibrations. By taking things apart and re-doing the install, the vibrations went away. However, the final install, even if quiet, did not work. Apparently the condenser was kaput. No cooling after all the adjustments. We gave up and are replacing the fridge.
I removed the plastic cowl in the rear of the freezer to gain access to the fan, took out two screws that secured the brackets holding the fan. Then I separated the coupling wires which had a sort of locking mechanism that was simple to undue. I took out the brackets along with the fan, separated the brackets and removed the screw for the ground wire. Then I simply reversed the process.
Removed the old and installed the new. Electrical plug/socket made connection easy. Biggest problem is working space in freezer side of a side by side with the fan in the back. If I can do it anyone can.
Wasn't sure if it was the derost timer or the heating element. Since the timer was much cheaper, I bought it and crossed my fingers. My story is like the others. Unplug the refrigerator, snip the old wires, strip back the wire insulation, use the supplied connectors to attach the new defrost timer to the existing wiring. Success! My coils no longer freeze up. Only difficulty is I am a large guy, and fitting my upper body into the freezer was challenging.
Freezer was getting a build up of frost on the condenser and wasn't cooling.
First I remove the back panel which had 4 screws. Then I removed the ice maker. The icemaker is held in place by the 2 screws that requires backing the screws out just a litter, than lift up and remove the electrical connector. Used a volt ohm meter to check the resisitant in the heater element and the defrost timing switch. Both tested good and that left only the thermostat. Removed and replaced the thermastat swich. I cut the ends of the old switch and crimp the ends of wire with the crimps that came with the swict i purchased from parts select. My refrigerator is working properly and making ice like normal.
