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The evaporator coil in the freezer would cake up with ice, choking off the cold air flow into the lower refridgerator compartment. A repair man had previously replaced the defrost heater element, but this did not fix the problem.
First, unplug the refrigerator since you're working with live wires.
Remove the 4 Philips sheet metal screws holding the plastic housing that holds the temperature control to the top of the refrigerator compartment. Pull the housing down then out since there is a tube on the housing where the water flows out the back of the refrigerator during the defrost cycle.
Remove the 2 Philips screws holding the defrost timer on the plastic housing. Pull the connectors off the old timer and attach them in exactly the same positions on the new defrost timer.
Attach the new defrost timer to the plastic housing with the 2 screws.
Reinstall the plastic housing, making sure the water tube is inserted into the back of the refrigerator wall.
top freezer working properly, but lower fridge not cooling.
since I had my fridge since 2003 it seems that I've gotten my moneys worth but it has worked flawlessly with no issues. I did not want to part with it so I troubled shoot the system and realized that it could have been number of things so I just decided after reading some reviews here on this site I decided to just purchase the items that would be effecting the fridge not working properly which was the evaporator fan, defrost thermostat, defrost timer, temperature cold control thermostat, I also cleaned the condenser coils in the back of the unit so they can be able to withdraw heat from the unit. my repair and installation took about 4 hours due to the cleaning of the coils but now the fridge is working like brand new. thanks to this sitt and it's comprehensive video tutorials on installations and repair it my job a lot easier to do.this is not my first time ordering from this site and will not be my last. anyone considering ordering from this site do not hesitate there are great with parts and customer service.
Removed (unsnapped) plastic cover from back of refrigerator ( inside freezer compartment), determined that the fan was not turning, removed 4 screws from the aluminum back plate in freezer and tilted it down. Removed 2 screws with a nut driver, this allowed the fan to be removed, unpluged fan motor from the bace of the freezer and removed fan. Installed new motor and spent $38.00 to repair the refrigerator that would have cost me severial hundred dollars to replace. Thanks for the help
The bottom of Refrigerator would not get below 48 degress. Freeezer was working fine.
First I unplugged fridge. I then removed cover that keeps fan protected. I then removed 2 screws that hold the evaporator motor in place. I then removed 3 wires running to motor. Very easy to remove, just pulled connections apart. I then replace the old motor with new.
The Sears repairman wanted to charge me $359 to repair. I did repair for under $40! Amazing what you can save if you have the time and knowlege to do it yourself.
Snap out fan cover, remove four 1/4" screws, remove back cover, remove defective fan motor, remove fan blade, install new motor and blade, strip wires and hook up with wire nuts, reinstall back cover, snap in fan cover, and plug in fridge.
- Unsnapped old light socket from top of Frig - Disconnected elect wires - Reconnected elect wires to new light socket - Snapped new socket in place - Done in less than 2 min.
Removed the cover inside the freezer. Found out that the motor/fan was not working. Ordered through PartSelect. Got the parts in 3 days. Installed it for less than 30 minutes. Very easy. It saved me hundreds of dollars. We considered buying a new fridge but not anymore. , it only cost me $70 including shipment charges. (Make sure you unplug the appliance first before opening the cover. Remember safety first.)
This fridge is less than 2 years old really disappointed with frigidaire quality. Had a appliance repair guy diagnose the problem and paid $45 for the service call but decline for him to do the repair for $320. Remove the cover 4 screws holding it on top of fridge the defrost timer is inside 2 screws and you just unplug and replace with a new one. The defrost thermostat is in the freezer compartment, remove the ice maker if equiped then remove back cover, cut out the old thermostat n crimp in the new one. So far the fridge is working but still not getting as cold as before but good enough to keep things safe. Thanks to partselect.com i saved a bunch of money doing it myself.
This was a simple job. Raised the flap in the back that houses the compressor, removed the wire that holds the relay, pulled out the old relay and pushed the new one on. Replaced wire holder and that was it. Plugged it frig and freezer is at zero and lower compartment at 35. As easy as brushing your teeth!
Popped off the front plastic cover on the bottom of the fridge, under the doors. Two screws held the defrost timer on under the front side of fridge (below freezer door). You can't really see the timer except for the adjustment knob that is accessible through a hole. Once the screws are removed, disconnect the wire plug and remove and replaced unit. Works fine ever since.
I located the part that was the culprit as it had buzzed very much before quitting. This is an easy removal as the part is in a two prong jack and just needs to be carefully removed with the new part inserted back in the jack provided. The refrigerator works fine now, but the run capacitor will still buzz on start up of the compressor. I do hope this is normal in this model? anyway it runs fine mow. Thank you.
Food compartment not cooling, freezer working well.
Fantastic! Sent in a brief description of problem and model number. Reply and description of other customers experiences guided us to the exact problem. We ordered the part on Friday and it was here on Tuesday. I prepared the freezer compartment for the removal of the old motor and on Sunday husband installed new Evaporator Fan Motor.
It works and is cooling like it did when it was new.
This has been a great experience as all repairmen wanted at least 60.00 to just come out and determine what the problem was. I can only imagine what the final bill would have been.
The site offers a video for this part which worked perfectly. In addition to replacing the part, since the cardboard panel was off, we also cleaned all the dust off of the coils which someone recommended to do annually.