Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Top cools bottom is weak
Unplug, remove 2 screws off back panel inside the freezer. Cut wires on old one and crimped in new one. Light to melt the shrink wrap that came with it. Pretty easy.
I had a broken fan blade due to ice build up from a leaking ice maker.
1. I took out one screw on the ice maker and loosened the other two screws and unplugged and removed the ice maker. 2. Next I took out 2 screws from the bottom of the auger drive box and unplugged the wiring harness and removed the box. The wiring harness was a little tricky. The lock on the plug pushes in to unlock even though it looks like it pulls out,. 3.next you must remove 2 screws from the left side bracket that holds the auger box and remove the bracket. 4.Now take out 8 screws that hold the back panel in place and remove the back panel. 5. now your looking at the evaporator fan blade and motor. The simple way to replace the fan blade is to unplug the motor and remove it from the freezer. It just sits in with nothing holding it. The fan requires a little pressure but should pull right off. Install new fan blade and put everything back in the same order it was removed.
Turned off fridge circuit breaker Removed all food from freezer and put in cooler. Removed shelves from freezer Removed ice maker Removed 2 hex head screws Tilted back evaporator cover and tried to unplug connection. Found connection was iced over with a huge block of ice coming from water inlet to ice maker Spent several hours trying to melt and chip away ice without damaging fridge. Finally was able to break up ice with long flat head screwdriver and hammer. Unplugged connector and was able to remove evaporator cover. Cut wires near thermostat and removed Stripped wire as needed and crimped new thermostat in place. Used heat gun and lighter to melt heat shrink. This took a long time and required a lot more heat than expected. Reconnected evaporator cover connection and reattached cover. Reinstalled ice maker Reinstalled shelves. Put food back in Turned circuit breaker back on.
Fan was off kilter and began rubbing the frame which is caused it to slow down and make an disturbing audible noise.
Before buying the part, I watched your video and realized it was extremely simple to remove and replace. Item was to take 7-10 days and I received it in 4. Took longer than 15 minutes because I had to move the fridge forward, get my tools and a vacuum, get a cup of coffee and get to it. Very easy and the video was exactly step by step. It took longer to vacuum all of the dust bunnies than to replace the part.
Honestly, I was in the market to buy a new refrigerator but now I believe I'll wait several more years. Thank you for your support.
The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.
Fridge would not cool at all, because the compressor was not running. Fan running, lights working, just no cool.
Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.
After unplugging the fridge, I took a small flat headed screwdriver and carefully pried off the light switch from the inside, right side of the refrigerator. I disconnected the 2 wires from the switch and replaced it with the new switch and pushed it back into the frame of the fridge. Done !! Very very easy !! Thank you
freezer cold and frosting up but refrigerator warm
inside the freezer compartment, remove four hex head screws from rear panel,lift panel forward and unplug wire assembly from panel. find old defrost thermostat attached to copper tube by clip on back of thermostat, unclip, snip two wires to thermostat, take new thermostat, strip 1/4"of wire from wires in freezer (thermostat is prestripped),insert light blue wire from thermostat and light blue wire from freezer into opposite ends of crimp connector and crimp securely. repeat with dark blue wires. set panel back in freezer,connect plug to back of panel, refasten screws and you are go to go! save yourself the price of a new refrigerator or $300 repair by repairman!
Light Switch too loose so no longer triggered by the door.
Googled it on Youtube - unplugged the fridge, used a paint scraper to loosen the old light switch, unplugged it from the electrical source, connected the new switch, replaced the whole unit into the proper location and pushed it firmly into place.
I had to cut the replacement bars to the correct length. But everything else was easy. The quality of the repacement bars is much better than the originals. Thanks!
From most posts I've read, the defrost timer was the culprit so I blindly ordered one. Easy install but did not fix the problem so I broke out the ohm meter. The only other 2 items it could be all tested good with my meter so I bypassed the defrost thermostat (per forum help...actually quite easy)and it defrosted fine, which told me I needed a new defrost thermostat. Installed fairly easy and problem gone.
Based on the website I decided it was most probably the defrost timer, and that was correct. I ordered it, watched the video, and two days later the part was at my door. Took the nut driver, removed 4 screws, then removed the old defrost timer, installed the new one, re-installed the whole plastic assembly with the four screws, and done!!! Couldn't have been easier.
