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Dryer was making a lot of noise while running.
After identfying that the problem was due to a damaged drum support roller, I decided to replace the bad roller instead of replacing the dyer itself.
The first thing was to remove the front cover and the front panels to expose the drum. (Only a few screws hold them in place.) Next, the drum was removed by first releasing the belt from the motor pulley and tensioner, and then pulling the drum straight out.
At this point the two rollers would be exposed. The triangular plastic retaining locks were removed by slightly prying them off. The old rollers were then removed and replaced.
Before putting everything back, this was a good time to vacuum all the accumulated lint inside, especially the lint that had accumulated around the motor assembly and the fire box.
(A pleasant surprise: I found a lot of coins inside the unit, enough to recoup half of what I spent for the new rollers.)
The only thing I had to do was hammer the catch inside the square fitting and presto it was done. It took me less than 3 mins. I thought I might of needed instructions, but it was really simple. Even a guy can do it. (smile)
I took out the 2 screws that are located on the top of dryer under the lint filter door. Popped up the whole top of dryer. Opened the dryer door to unscrew the 2 door switch screws. Took off the old broken door switch through the open dryer top and before replacing the new door switch completely I tested it by turning the dryer on and pressing the new switch against the button activator 2 find out if it works. When it did, I carefully put the door switch back so the dryer door can activate it properly and screwed in the 2 screws. Finally, I put the dryer top back down & fastened the last 2 screws under the lint filter door.
Stepdaughter had over the years broke the 2 cables that supported the drop down door. So she let it hang by the hinges, which eventually broke them also.
Removed what was left of the old hinges, installed the new ones. Also added a length of jack chain (same size chain that’s on a toilet flapper) to one side to support the door while open. Tried to chain up both sides but it wouldn’t let the door completely close and depress the switch. Cables are no longer supplied by any parts dealers.
Order the part and put the new part on and put the washing machine cabinet back on and check the washer for the water filled up and then it's starting to go on the spin cycles.
I diagnosed the problem, as a broken arm on the actuator for the door shut switch. I jumped the switch, and dryer worked. I went to this site, found the part I needed, ordered it/received it quickly, and proceeded to do the repair. The video that THIS particular part goes for, isn't' like MY dryer. My dryer hinges in the rear. You just remove the 2 screws on either side of the control panel, (right and left), pull forward on the panel, to ease its attachment, let it lie. Then with a small plastic pry tool, pop the 2 attaching points in the front of the dryer. Front end lifts up, like a hood on a car. My roommate held hood up, while I R&R'd the switch actuator. Went back together, in reverse of my taking apart. Worked great. Thanks a bunch.
Removed old catch and strike with screwdriver and needle nose pliers. Installed new parts. My old catch did not have comparible numbers so I just used the yellow one. Worked fine.
removed two screws from lint screen raised top removed two nut screw from front disconnected lid wire lifted front up and off removed drum cleaned all dust out replaced pulley unit with new one (with a wheel) replaced tub held it up with a bungey cord put on new belt and reassembled unit tested out back in business
