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No heat in the dryer
Initially I incorrectly diagnosed the problem... Make sure to test the continuity in all thermostats and heating element to identify which part is not working. Easiest way is to use a meter with an audible ohm continuity setting. Test the continuity on all thermostats/fuses, and element. If there is no continuity chances are that is it. Good luck!
Disconnected the power ,removed back.Removed the upper thermostat in the heat chamber and replaced. This is the last item to replace as per your recommended list on the trouble shooting page..Very happy to say that the dryer is heating again.See my previous posts,for the parts that I heve replaced.Thanks.
This was so easy with the Partselect video. I removed the back of the dryer (9 screws) with a pair of pliers. Took a picture of the cycling thermostat with a digital camara, just in case I mixed up the wires. I removed 4 wires and two screws, screwed in the new cycling thermostat and reattached the wires. NOTE: wires can be pretty tight, a pair of needle nose pliers would have helped.
Unfortunately, my wife did not mention that the dryer was not getting hot, only that the timer did not advance. I hopped back online, ordered the heating element and the thermal fuse, debated about paying for a next day delivery and decided against it. I placed the order on a Thursday night at 10:00 p.m. It shipped Friday and arrived on Saturday evening. I was not expecting it until Wednesday!!
The Dryer is working like new, my wife thinks that I'm a genious and I'm just happy I did not have to help lug clothes to the laundromat Sunday!!! LT
The video was the key. I don't know if it is your site, but some site had step by step video instructions making a relatively easy job out of a complicated one.
Replaced 2 thermostats, flame sensor, gas vale and solenoids. After each part was replaced, I started the dryer to see if the replaced part solved the problem. It did not, or so it seemed. Now, and this is important evidently: all the time I ran the tests post part replacement, the dryer was without the tumbler or any front end ducting in place. Out of frustration and a tickle of intuition, I reassembled the dryer, ran the test, and intuition proved itself as the dryer is working properly. My conclusion: You cannot run an accurate test result without the tumbler and ducting in place. I don't know why, but this seems to be necessary. new gas valve gave the dryer a much healthier flame.
PartSelect website was hugely helpful. The diagram of the dryer was great. I determined my thermal cut-off switch was bad. The part was ordered and arrived in a couple days. It was very easy to change. If your thermal cut off is tripped, don't forget to clean your entire duct work, it is most likely blocked or restricted.
pulled of back and exposed heat element. Made up jumper for themostat and cutout from little sliver of beer can to bypass thermal switches.unit worked so ordered kit to replace non functioning thermostat. Quick delivery and quick instal. I had left back panel off after test . All is well
My original problem was due to a blocked/ broken vent tube, which lead to the failure of the thermal cutoff switch. It was super easy to diagnose using the instructions provided on this site (found an open circuit where it was supposed to be closed). The site helped my identify the correct part and the install was super easy.
I unhooked dryer and removed the back panel. then followed the directions for installation of the repair parts I ordered. It was pretty easy ,only two small thermostat type parts and about five or six wires.
After disconnecting the wires I tested thermal switch with ohm meter. It tested bad. Found the part number for the replacement kit and ordered from partselect.com. New thermal switch fixed the problem.
After diagnosing the fuse associated with this part as being the problem and ordering it from Sears I came across this web site and compared prices. I found the repair stories and discovered that Whirlpool which is the manufacturer for Kenmore, recommends replacing the thermostat along with the fuse as the thermostat is the likely cause for blowing the fuse. I ordered the thermostat from PartSelect and had it the next day while Sears was like 5 days. If I need repair parts in the future I'll order from PartSelect.
I started by removing the back of the dryer thinking that was the proper procedure. That is where I found the broken belt. After purchasing the belt I found belt replacement instructions on-line. The instructions guide you through simple steps to remove the two screws in the area where the lint filter is on top of the dryer. The top then simply lifts back exposing the drum. Two more screws just inside the top of the front panel and two screws to remove the door switch assembly and your in. That is where I found the bent idler pulley assembly that pops free when the belt breaks. I purchased the part and followed the directions and then re-assembled the dryer. Dryer works like new. The most important thing I learned through this is that I believe I can now fix anything that breaks on my dryer. With the all the information that is available on-line and the easy access to replacement parts dryer repair is really cheap and simple. Makes me wish I had done some troubleshooting on my previous dryer before I replaced it. Also going through the back of the dryer was a waste of time.
