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Water Inlet Valve
The reason it took as long as it did was because the job is not in line as the work I normally do. It would be a fairly easy job for an experienced repairman. (Taking the back off the washer was time consuming for me) The rest of the job was easy as the part was a perfect fit. I remember having a problem blending hot/cold water for some time. Most recently, while washing a load the water did not want to shut off. I can't remember how I diagnosed the water not shuting off as a problem along with the water temp control, but it is now repaired. With the new valve installed, water temp select is now OK and the water now shuts off as normal.
After taking the entire washer apart one time, we learned that we could take the top and front of the machine off only to repair it. I found Part-select online and with the model number locating the part was easy. It arrived within 3 days and with instructions I could easily replace the old part with a few tools. I spent dollars instead of hundreds for a new machine.
First I removed the softener bin by pulling it up and off, then I removed the plastic seal by pulling it up and out, then I removed the 1/2 inch bolt with a ratchet and extension, then I removed the upper and lower agitator assembly from the machine and seperated the two by putting my feet on the lower agitator to hold it to the floor and pulling the upper agitator fast and firmly. Sitting on top of the lower agitator I found the dog ear assembly. I pulled the dog ear assembly off and removed the yellow cap and existing dog ears. Assembly was reverse.
Wash machine, wouldn't spin dry the close. The pump still worked to drain the water.
Unplug power from wall. Disconnected water lines Tip Unit on it's side. (Recommend turning so motor is to the top side) Disconnect Electrical connector and Hoses from the pump and motor. Disconnect metal straps used to retain the motor to the transmission. (screwdriver to pry) Remove old coupling pieces from transmission/motor(used a long screw driver, rock back and forth) used air compressor to clean up electric motor replace new coupling on motor and transmisison (may need hammer to tap into place) set rubber bushing on transmission side (transmission shaft should be facing up at this point) replace electric motor into place, making sure to line up bushing and motor mounts. replace metal strap connectors between transmission / motor (this can be tricky, as the one in the back is hard to get at.) replace electrical connectors and hoses connect washing machine power and water and test
Tilt machine on its side,snap off the two retaining straps and remove the pump and sanded the shaft on the electric drive motor to remove rust ,Install new pump and retaining straps and unit now running great.
Removed screws on top of machine to remove the control unit out of the way. Then used large regular screw driver to pry out the two clips that hold the back of the washer tight to the top frame. This allows the back to come away from the machine enough to get the water inlet valve free. Didn't have to remove the bolts at the bottom of the back of the machine (they were pretty rusty) Just removed the single screw holding the water inlet valve in place, slid it down and away from the back cover and could fish it out to the side and disconnect the hose (with plyers) and slide off electrical clips (make a note of which clip goes to which valve.) I removed the part first so I could make sure I was ordering the right one. When the part came (very promptly by the way) it went back together easy. Only question was regarding reinstalling the wires since I didn't mark which way they went. I knew which one went on the Hot and Cold but didn't know if it mattered which clips went on each terminal. Figuring it was AC guessed it didn't matter so put it together the way the connectors seemed to want to lie naturally. Put it together making sure no hoses or wires where pinched or rubbing against sharp edges. Replaced the rubber washers in the hoses and made sure the hose connectors turned freely (they had been rusted a bit and didn't turn on the hose freely and I think this was the start of the cross threading problem) This time the hoses went back on very easily, screwed them hand tight not forcing anything at any time (DIDN"T USE PLIERS!). Tried water and no more leaks. Washer filled faster also, think this was because the screens on the water valve were plugged. I'll have to remember to take the hoses off and make sure the screens are clear every couple years or so. If you are having slow fills, suggest you check this first before tearing in to the machine.
Replaced ring that broke and washer that was bent on the edge.
Took the agitator out and gearbox off unhook wires from motor and take off water pump, replaced the parts and put back together. Pretty easy to fix. However, I still haven't got my problem fixed. Originally the washer wouldn't spin after the rinse. I put on a new coupler and it worked for a few loads, then something smelled hot and started stinkin the house up so I opened the washer lid and smoke rolled out. Turned it off. Took the moter off and checked it and it would barely turn at all. Replaced the motor with a new one. Still wouldn't spin. Put on a new clutch assembly. Still wouldn't spin. Bought a new capacitor thinking that would do it. Still don't SPIN!!! (The ring and washer I replaced was just a casualty, not any of the problem).
Washing machine shakes violently during spin cycle
Removed four screws that hold the top control panel to the base and hung over the back panel in order to remove the main wrap-around body of the machine. Took off top plastic ring fastened to side of tub then removed old Balance ring. Installed new balance ring. Unfortunately, this did NOT fix the problem. This was a suggestion from Justanswer.com and failed miserably. Does anybody know how to fix this problem? And it's not the springs or the little plastic shims around the base OR the cross coupling to the motor...
3 online people recommended tilting the machine on the side and replacing the 3 suspension springs. Someone else recommended changing the tub pads. That is the wrong approach. It is actually easier to remove the case than turn the machine on the side. Once you do it once or twice it takes less than 2 minutes and it doesn't distort the suspension. You don't even have to disconnect the hoses. When I originally examined the machine lying on it's side I saw that the tub balance spring was still attached to the tub but the other end had detached. I looked for the place to reattach it. I found a place on the glide plate. Unfortunately this was the wrong place and the machine continued to bang away. When I realized that the spring had to be attached to the lower frame rather than the glide plate (one week of looking). I even wrote to the Repair guru. Once I found my mistake the repair took 5 minutes and no tools other than the phillips screwdriver to take out the 2 screws for the case. I replaced the tub balancing spring for good measure. The machine works great.
Once I finally found the part I needed, the repair was very simple and took only a few minutes. Thanks to the very helpful operator to walk me through the diagram to find the corresponding number for the part. I really appreciate your help!
The repair was fairly simple and while it made the spin operation quieter and and a bit more stable, it still gets out of balance. Disconnected power, shutoff supply lines and disconnected them from the unit.
Laid washer on its front and replaced the two more visible springs fairly easily from underneath using a little leverage with a 2 x 4 to take any residual tension off the springs.
Then I turned the washer over on its back (gently and with a little support (board or old thick towel) so the weight of the unit didn't rest entirely on the water intake connectors
Again, lifted the tub with 2 x 4 and disconnected the power and control connector to the motor to make a little more room to get to the spring.
If you do this, be sure to re-connect that connector before you put the washer back and test, otherwise it will fill and then sit.... I had to siphon the tank out, disconnect everything, flip it over and re-connect that power connector!! After that the unit ran better than before, especially on the spin cycle. Over all this washer is 15 years old and worn a bit so we are still careful not to overload it and balance the loading as much as possible. Large bedspreads and king size sheets or mattress covers will always spin out of balance but for 90% of regular washing it was an improvement.
Washer basket off-center and wobbling during spin cycle
Remove the washer case/enclosure to expose all the internal parts. Lie on the floor and with pliers and a strong arm. Remove and replace each spring one at a time. Pretty straightforward.
After removing the 2 phillips screws at the base of the control panel, I flipped the panel toward the back. Using a screwdriver, I popped off the spring clips, releasing the cabinet. I removed the 1/4" hex head screw on the spring mount and removed the old spring and replaced with the new. I repeated this with the other 2 springs. The spring bracket in the rear also holds the tub balancing spring. It is easily replaced while replacing the suspension spring. If this didn't fix the problem, we were going shopping for a new washer. After this repair, it operates like new!