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35 year old water tube became brittle and cracked; leaking water
Unscrewed clamp holding water tube to refrigerator ice maker. Pulled water tube from ice maker and water valve inlet. Cut the new tubing to the exact same length and inserted one end to the water valve inlet and the other end to the ice maker then screwed clamp holding water tube back to the refrigerator ice maker.
Looking at the ice maker it is pretty cut & dried as to how to remove the unit. I took out the ice tray and just started removing all the mounting screws. The same for the mold ice tray & heating element. I was just sad that you did not have just the heating element separate from the mold ice tray.
The ice mold has a coating on it. Over time the coating deteriorates. If your ice maker leaks water into the ice reservoir inspect the mold to see if the coating is compromised. If so, replace with new.
Remove the ice maker assembly. 3 small hex screws. Unplug power cord. Disassemble ice maker assembly. Remove ice mold/heater. Replace with new. Reassemble.
I looked up the refrigerator on the internet and found this website. I got the diagram of the parts of the icemaker and found that the valve must be defective because no water was coming up to the icemaker. I ordered the part which came the next day. Took out the screws, conected the water line to the new part. moved the electrical connection to the new part and we had ice. Saved a lot of money that the plumber would have cost.
The lining of the ice mold (Whirlpool) started flecking off (black flecks in the ice cubes), so I decided to replace the mold. Loosen the two 1/4 inch upper nuts and remove the lower nut to remove the ice maker from the freezer. The hardest part was getting it unplugged. I used a small blade screwdriver to release the catch on the connector and pull it out. Remove the ice maker front cover. If you have a skinny enough phillips screw driver, there are two deep set screws through two holes on the lower portion of the control module (otherwise, remove the three screws on the controller, unlatch the shut-off arm from the control module, and separate the controller to access the mold screws). Unhook the shut-off wire from the end of the tray. Unscrew the two screws holding the mold and remove the mold. Remove the plastic hardware from the old mold and install on the new mold. Attach the new mold on to the control module. WARNING WARNING WARNING!!! The mold I bought already had the alumilastic on it for the contact point to the thermostat. When I installed it and tightened the screws, the alumilastic was dried out, didn't squash down, and dented the bi-metal thermostat on the controller, ruining it. I had to buy a new thermostat. Be sure to check that the alumilastic is pliable. If not, take it off and buy some fresh to put on there. Re-install the ice maker. It took a while to get the first batch of ice because the ice maker was at room temperature and I had the freezer door open for several minutes. So the freezer had to get cold and the ice maker had to chill down. Once everything got cold, it started making ice again.
old valve was not shutting off fully, flooding ice-maker, creating a glacier
Shut off water supply, removed old valve (two screws, 1/4' nut driver), disconnect electrical plug, remove water lines (adjustable wrench). Cut fitting off tube to ice-maker (new unit has a push-to-connect fitting). Replace water lines and electrical connector. Mount valve back on cabinet. Turn water back on.
The wiring harness was a straightfoward plug in replacement after depressing the securing tabs, and did provide power to the icemaker. However, the icemaker would continually cycle, with the mold heater on at all times. I suspect this is what caused the thermal fuse to blow in the first place. Rather than spend more time replacing individual components, I eneded up replacing the full ice maker assy. The new ice maker works properly.
Removed the two screws that hold flaping door. Removed the single screw that covers the connecting wires. Disconnected the wiring plug. I wiggled out the ice maker. Took off the motor cover. Swapped out one motor for the other. Reinstalled the icemaker in the resverse order of removal. Note the wiring plug in the freeze is very from. It makine s the reconnection differcult.
We have a side-by-side and the tutorial was different than what we have. Had trouble getting cover off, but finally repaired and WE HAVE ICE! Also took longer than expected. Saved a lot!
Followed the video on parts page. I was worried I would brake the cover but learned from the video the right way to remove the front plate. I found the video very informing. Thank you for saving me a service call and the part cost was minimal compared to a new refrigerator .
I pulled the refrigerator out from the wali slowly so not to damage the water line to the ice maker. Then with a nut driver I removed all the screws holding the back plate on. Being careful not to kink the water line, I used the adjustable wrench to losen the water line feed nut and the nut that goes to the line to the icemaker. Then I removed the screws holding the valve in place finished unhooking the water lines with my fingers. I then got the new valve and finger tightend the main water supply nut to the inlet side, then I pushed the plastic supply tube going to the icemaker into the valve. The new valve does not use a nut to attach the tubing it is a presure fit very easy.
1. Removed the icemaker door 2. Removed the two screws from the underside of the icemaker unit 3. Removed the slide-on plastic cover that protects the power cable connector 4. Removed the icemaker unit 5. Removed the two screws from the control unit 6. Pulled the control unit from the icemaker unit 7. Installed the new control unit and reinstalled the icemaker assembly
A repairman wanted to charge me $250 to do what I did in about 20 minutes for about $120.
The Ice maker unit had to be removed and the shaft had to also be removed, which required dis-assembling the motor drive. The thickness of the shaft and the bearing fill cup prevents it from simply pushing it in place. Other than that I have Ice.
After taking apart the ice maker, the only obvious replacement was the motor assembly. I check various Internet sites and found the best price at PartSelect.
I removed the ice maker from the freezer after turning off the ice make switch. Removal was easy with only one screw holding in the entire assembly. The ice maker has rails that allow it to slide in and out like a drawer.
After R/R the motor assembly and returning the ice make to the freezer all that remiand was to see if it worked.
Within 10 minutes I had the wonderful sound of water filling the ice maker tray. Within 30 minutes of that, ICE!!!
Shopping, ordering and shipping of the part was fast and efficient. I'll go with PartSelect for all my future appliance needs.
