Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Condenser Fan Failure
Partition between Freezer and Fridge was running very hot. (Warm is normal). Oiling fan did not work. The only problems encountered in the replacement were getting fan out and in through coolant lines, cut plug off to accomodate generic fan wiring, getting the screws back in without cooking your hand on a hot compressor. Unit works great!
I removed the nuts that held the motor mount, then removed fan blade, cut the wires, and slid the motor pass the mounts and the coil shroud, Installed motor in reverse order. worked out ok.
figured out the condenser fan was kaput. Tried WD, worked for several days then gave out completely. Took off back of fridge and trained small fan on compressor while I ordered new condenser fan. The swap was easy, undid the housing bolts, stripped off the connector, reconnected and voila! works perfect.
removed lower back cover. diconnected fan ass'y electrical connection, removed fan housing (3 screws). removed fan motor from housing. cut old connector from fan and installed on new fan with wire nuts included. re-installed new fan to housing and re-installed housing to frame.
The freezer worked but the refrigerator wouldn't cool.
When we got the part, we read the instructions, which were easy and very clear step by step. Taking the old part off took most of the time, it was attached a little differently than was described in the video and the instructions for the part. Once we detached that, the replacement part went in very easily and quickly. It took a short while for the cycle to start, we were actually a little worried that it wasn't going to work. Then it started cycling. After the first day the freezer had started icing up, we took a blow dryer and melted it and waited. It hasn't started freezing up again. The refrigerator is keeping the proper temperature and the freezer is also working properly, it's been a week. We seem to be obsessed with going out and checking to see if it's working but I think it's a success. Doing this ourselves only cost $26.00. A huge savings if we had hired someone else to repair it for us. We will definitely choose this option with any other appliance that needs repair. It was easy and simple to find the correct part thanks to the website. And the video tutorial was very informative and helpful.
Motor noise while running and clicking when shutting off
The instruction sheet supplied with the new motor described the steps to take very good. Replaced the rubber grommets for the three motor mounts also. A flashlight or light source was needed or was very helpful.
The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.
Removed rear cover to see non-operating fan - removed three mounting screws on the motor that were a challenge to access. Swapped fan from old motor onto new motor - one threaded nut on the motor shaft. Spliced new fan wires into fan wires of the wiring harness and mounted with three self-tapping screws supplied with new fan motor. Replaced rear cover and plugged it in! Now the refrigerator cools like new (1981 model side-by-side Admiral)
first confirm that freezer is cold. if is frozen solid it needs to be defrosted. take the freezer items out,take shelf out, bottom cover, 2 screws. then ice maker, 3 screws and unplug wires. then back panel 2 screws. In refrigerator compartment were the controllers are located, look under it you will see 1 hole, insert a flat end screw driver and turn clockwise till it stops. this action will turn on your defroster, also the compressor will stop. is the heater melting the ice? if so soak up water and clean tray, use hair dryer in drain hole to aid in the defrost, check tray under fridge and if its dry keep defrosting. it should take half an hour. now take the flat head screw driver and turn the defrost timer clock wise out of defrost mode a quarter turn or so. the compressor should come back on, soon after the fan in the freezer compartment should also come on. this steps lets you no that the defrost heater works, fan works and drain hole is clear. if its defrosted place parts back in the reverse order. if not defrosted replace heater or mother board. in refrigerator compartment were the dials are located their are 2 screws, one on the left and the other on the right side take them out, the cover will drop down, you will find wiring schematics you will need them to install defrost timer. is timer making ticking sound? if no replace timer. new timer will be different from original so follow instructions that come with it. timer is above were the hole is located. the plastic hold downs will break when you try to take them off, unplug fridge, lift timer out and remove from wire harness. the new timer has a black wire that slips over either 1 or 2 depending on color of wire on the wire harness. check schematics. some silicone adhesive will keep unit in place, ad some into the plastic shaft prior to installation, plug wire harness return wiring instruction along with new one inside of cover, plug in fridge, turn defrost timer clock wise with flat head screw driver making sure that you hold timer from above so it wont move. did compressor come on?. put all paper work inside of cover before installing cover
I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.