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plastic ice cube guide installed
Mine is a simple tale of the missing ice cube dispensor guide. When we moved, the guide was missing so when I built our new home with a kitchen in the basement I wanted to hook up the ice dispensor but when I did, the ice cubes always fell off to one side. I decided to order the misssing part on-line. I ordered it paid for it and then received it the next day-wonderful. Within ten minutes, I was ready to go. Thanks for great service. Rick Davis, Bloomington, IL.
Ice maker auger motor runs but wouldn't dispense ice
My Kitchenaid side by side freezer has an ice dispenser on the door that would not dispense ice. The electronic door opened and the motor would come on with a repeated clicking noise. The Auger would turn with a few ice cubes in the bin, but not under load. After ruling out a clogged chute, I figured that the motor was stripped. The rod that turns the auger is a hexagon shaped piece, much like a screw driver you would use with your drill. After years of breaking down ice, it stripped the hexagon key in the motor, and would just spin under load. Now, PAY ATTENTION TO THIS PART. I looked online for a repair and saw a very similar motor repair that involved taking off the front panel and electronics. I did this, and ran into a solid piece of plastic with no way to get to the motor. I then looked at the inside of the freezer door more carefully. About 2/3 down I saw a small panel held in place by four 1/4 inch hex nuts. What was a 15 minute job, cost me over an hour removing and replacing the front of the freezer. Anyway, the replacement motor fixed the problem without a hitch, and now we have ice. Of note, this is the second repair of this ice maker system, after first having to replace the ice maker itself. And, this the second Kitchenaid built in refrigerator of this model as our first had ice maker issues and was returned as a recall. It is only 5 years old.
This was a pretty easy repair...I removed the retaining screws and slid the assembly off its tracks. Disconneting the wiring hardness was a pain but after a few minutes I had that off (use gloves, it gets cold in the freezer after a minute)
Once I had the unit completely out of the freezer the replacement part took only minutes to replace.
Reversed the process putting the ice maker back in - a few hours later my ice buck was full again.
Turn off water supply too ice maker and unplug the fridge power. using a nut driver remove one bottom screw from the bottom, near the front. The other two from the side atop the ice mold. (loosen screws and ice maker will lift up and off.) I set the ice maker on the counter, snapped of the front cover by hand. using a phillips driver, remove two screws near the bottom corners.(they go through the circuit board into the ice mold) circuit board in one hand, other end of ice mold in the other, slowly pull apart about 1 inch. remove the silver colored "on, off" bar at the end by snapping the retainer out of the ice mold. (the silver bar stays with the circuit board end) Watch how the ice guide(white fingers stationary on side of ice mold) hooks too the ice mold on each end. swap ice guide to new ice mold, insert three guide pins on end into holes on the circuit board, while holding ice guide onto ice mold, watch rotation bar while inserting into motor.(it only splines one way.) when each piece is lined up, simply push together and reinstall two screws. snap circuit board cover into place. reinstall ice maker into freezer in reverse order.
Old motor was not resetting back to proper position halting ice production.
Removed the three motor screws pulled off old motor put new motor in place replaced screws and re-installed. It was producing ice three hours later. I originally tried to obtian these parts directly from Whirlpool in which twice they shipped me the wrong parts. Finally gave up on them and entered the whilrpool part number which crossreferenced to new part number which was correct the first try. Thank you!
Ice Maker quit working. Seemed like a water supply issue but when I read the other reviews, I decided to install and see. bolted the bracket on with three screws, slid in place. Nothing happened and about 10 minutes later, I heard the water release to the ise maker and have been making ice ever since.
The water dispenser flow was very slow and the housing leaked when the filter was removed.
Removed front plastic grill and screws holding the filter in place. Also removed lower back cardboard panel to access water lines. Video on this website told me how to remove water lines from filter, you must depress a collar around the water line while pulling out the water line. Then install the new Water Filter Housing and water lines. The only problems I had was the tight space to work in and one of the water lines was leaking, but pushing the water line in further solved the problem.
This is in a rental house; Refrigerator/freezer has been off for a few weeks so just opened the freezer door and used screwdriver to pry out one corner then pliers to grab and pull old gasket (seal) off. Had the new one laid out overnight to relax it; placed one corner on and then the opposite corner then repeated the other two corners. Positioned the keeper edge plastic all of the way around to place the gasket in the door. Closed the door to check the seal and plugged unit back in. Waited and then checked air temp with hand held IR temp gauge. All checked good, no cold spots anywhere. Piece of cake!
i took the cover plate off the inside of the freezer under the ice bin[two screws] then I disconnected the wiring harness, then removed the four screws to remove the motor and then put the new motor in and the ice dispenser dispensed ice. Less than 1/2 hour with only needing a nut driver,and a flashlight.
Shelf rails were broken so the crisper tray fell out
We removed the old shelf. Put the new shelf in place and slipped the crisper tray on the new rails of the replacemnet shelf. The crisper no longer falls off the broken rails when you open it. We noticed the replacemnet shelf has metal rails and the original had plastic which is probably why it broke after heavy use over 12 years.
First I unplugged the unit, then I popped off the cover to the icemaker electronics. Removed 4 screws, pulled out the broken electronic panel, and replaced with the new one. Returned the screws and cover. The next moring the ice bin was full.
This must have saved me $300, and the inconvernience of waiting around for the repair man. He would have made two trips since he would never have had this part with him.
Resistance on solenoid for water to ice maker measured low (5 ohms). I assumed the coil insulation had degraded because there was almost a short with such low resistance. Replaced the water inlet valve kit and ice maker filled with water and everything worked great. I had to cut the ends of the hoses because my model use compression fittings and this new valve kit used the push on fittings. No leaks no problems. The cables plugged in the opposite direction from the old valve kit, so I had to re-route the cable a little and create slack by removing from 1 cable clamp.
Water leaking from under refrigerator. Initially believed leak was from filter assembly. Removed filter and shut off water supply but leak appeared at different intervals again. Large puddle of water coming out from under refrigerator. Removed back lower panel and checked for leak, but didn't find any. My wife was also checking for leak and found a crack in drip tray. Only way we could get the drip tray out was to first remove front lower panel, disconnect and remove wiring harness in front of drip tray, unbolt water filter assembly, and unbolt water solenoid unit at rear of refrigerator. Their water lines connect to filter assembly. My wife controlled the water solenoid unit to give me play as I pulled the filter assembly out as much as I could from the front. I could now wiggle the cracked drip tray out from under the filter unit. Replaced drip tray and reinstalled wiring harness, water filter unit w/new filter, and re-bolted water solenoid unit at back of refrigerator. Replaced back lower panel after turning water back on and checking for leaks. Replaced front lower panel.
The reason still had leak after initially turning off water supply was because the drip tray is used to catch the water when refrigerator goes into the defrost cycle. Since the original drip tray had cracked, water only appeared on floor after defrost cycle.
