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Large burner would not get hot
Repair was very simple. Removed 2 screws under the cooktop, tilt the cooktop back, unplug 4 wires from 8" burner, remove two screws holding retaining clips, install new burner in reverse order. Very simple!
Turn the breaker off to the oven.Removed both wire racks,using a 1/4 nut driver unscrewed the old element.The flashlight was so I could see inside the oven.Having removed the two screws ,the old element came right out.With my needle nose pliers removed the wires one at a time,replacing them on the new element as they came off.Replaced the two screws holding the element ,replace my wire rack, turned the breaker back on.As for the price for the part ,it was less than a service call from a repairman,which would not have included the part.
Old gasket had become brittle. Was able to find the 22 yr old model and part on PartSelect (could not track it down on GE's site. Inner panel was removed with four screws. Old gasket came out. Installed new gasket making sure the bead fit into the groove provided in the door panel. Re-assembled. All is well. Thanks
Unplugged range. Opened oven door and removed two screws from top of oven opening. Lifted oven top and propped up with a 2 x 3.Unscrewed the two screws that were holding
Plastic end brackets for the oven door handle were both broken
We had to buy star shaped screw driver bits to get the screws out. After that it was easy, unscrewed 2 screws, removed the old end pieces, and replaced with new end pieces and new screws. We used the original spacers and nuts. Repair was quick and easy. We found these same parts on the Sears website for $33 each. Here they were only $14 each.
First I turned off the circut breaker. Then removed the two wire racks. Then I removed the two 1/4" hex head screws holding the rear of the element in place. Pulled the element out far enough to remove the two wires. Discarded the old element. Installed the new element in the reverse order and turned the breaker back on. Took no more than 10 minutes. Ordering the part was easy. The diragrams with measurements of the part made it easy to insure that I was getting the right part. I'm sure I save myself at least a $65 plus service call. Not to mention a mark up on the part itself. I will use this website in the future if needed. Thanks
1. Removed the back panel. 2. Disconnected the wires from the old switch while connecting wires to the new switch one at a time. 3. Installed the new switch and broke off the excess metal on the post which fits into the burner knob on front of the range. 4. Replaced the burner knob and replaced the back panel.
FIRST TURN OFF THE CIRCUIT BREAKERS THAT POWER THE COOKTOP!! Remove the cooktop from the counter by removing the screws from the mounting straps under the counter. Then remove the screws that hold the glass cooktop to the frame and lift off the glass top. Next lift up the bad element and unplug one wire from the bad element and plug it into the new element. Make sure to put it on the exact same terminal of the new element. Do this for all the wires. Remove the two mounting tabs from the old element and put them on the new element. Turn on circuit breakers and your done.
Removed oven from cabinet. unblug old sensor pluged in new and reinstalled oven. Esay repair though wish oven was designed so did not have to pull itout of cabinet which requires disconect electric cabel
When baking at temps > 400 the oven would beep with an error code F5 and shut off
I downloaded the installaion manual from the web for this model. First htings first, I located the circuit breaker for the oven and turned it off. Removed the lower trim piece from the bottom, next lifted the oven door off its hinges and set it to the side. I then wrapped a couple of small towels around the hinges for the door as per the manual (the hinges can pinch a finger). I then removed the four screws which secured the oven into the cabinet. Next I slid the oven forward allowing me access to the rear. I removed the pieces from the rear to gain access to the sensors connector, and unpl;ugged the sensor. Went around to the front and unscrewed the 2 screws securing the sensor and removed it. I then installed the new sensor, replaced the rear covers, slid the oven back into the cabinet, secured the four screws, snapped on the lower trim, remounted the oven door, and turned the breaker on. Oven working fine now.
Took off oven door and removed racks. Removed the cover on the back side (5 screws removed with nut driver) Pulled sensor out the front side of the oven. Threaded the new sensor through and put all back together.
Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.
Fastening screws loosened and handle end caps fractured
I dis asymbled the door to access the broken end cap screw holders(plastic) Take great caution with the door glass. It is held in place by thin stamped steel slots and when taking the door face apart, the glass is free to fall out. I placed four strips of adhesive tape on the glass to hold it in place while I replaced the handle end caps. Use an electric screwdriver to place the retainer screws. It speeds up the work, and allows your other hand to stabilize the door. Caution to not over torque the steel screws. They screw into plastic and can strip easy. Another point: These replacement End Caps did not come with any supporting hardware - screws. I was lucky in that I retained the original screws and they were in good condition and could be recycled. Very impressed with the service, would recommend to all. Frighteningly fast delivery. I was shocked to see the box on my porch in just a few days.