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Noisy fan
1. Removed the 7 nuts using the nut driver from the freezer back panel inside the freezer. 2. Remove the back panel. The evaporator motor and fan are located above the coils. 3. Unplug the wiring harness. 4. Remove the two gold mounting screws holding the motor and fan in place. 5. Remove the motor and fan including the brackets. 6. Install the new motor and fan onto the mounting bracket. 6a. Attach the green ground to the mounting bracket. 7. Screw the two gold screws back into the freezer. 8. Attach the new wiring harness. Note, the old harness had a mounting hole/space for it to connect to the wiring harness of the freezer. The new motor's harness was not long enough for this, so it is connected freely to the freezer harness. 9. Use the hair dryer to melt any ice that may have formed on the coils and hole where the fan goes. 10. Turn the freezer on to see if the fan turns on. 11. Reinstall the back panel. All done!
The fan motor all but caught the inside of the freezer on fire . Had to remove then clean, and I mean clean the walls of the freezer . Then had to pry out the old fan without breaking anything . Replacement of new fan was quick and easy because all the parts that I needed were in the bag
Located the many screws which hold the inside surface of the door on. The screws are located between the seal and the inside surface; you have to hold back the seal to find the screws.
The seals are attached to this inner surface by a snug fit, and clamped in place when the screws are tightened again. Its simpler than it sounds.
Finally, it is wise to get a food safe RTV sealant to glue down the corners of the door seals to make they don't scoot around during the life of the seal.
First, I unplugged the appliance. Safety, first. Than I removed the shield which was held in by screws. This covered the fan, thermometer. The defrost thermostat was taken out, with a little extra force. The wires on the defective part were no longer attached to the part. The instructions were easy to follow in replacing the defrost thermostat. I stripped the coating on the wire, attached it with the enclosed electical bugs. The assy was able to follow, and the part went back on. The refrigerator is working perfectly. I couldn't have done it without the help in diagnosing the problem and with the speedy delivery of the new part. Thanks for all your help and the ease of the installing the new part!
took cover off inside freezer control . removed old fan and unpluged wire harness plugged new one up and fastened back in place and put control cover back on.
Drip pan had rusted & was leaking water on the floor
The BIG problem was getting the old drip pan off. The bolt on top of the compressor was too long to allow the removal of the old drip pan. I removed the old drip pan by cutting most of it away with tin shears then cutting the remaining part of the pan around the bolt with a hack saw (taking care not to damage freon lines and raising the pan above the threads of the bolt so as not to damage the threads). I still had to cut half the bolt away with a hack saw by replacing the nut and cutting a third of the bolt away (above the nut), so the new pan would fit. Putting the new pan on was a breeze after that. It may be easier to just cut the bolt off altogether on top of the compressor and use the wire clips per the instructions supplied with the kit to install the new one.
Freezer starter acumulating lots of ice and the lower part of fridge was not cooling at all.
just took the back cover of the freezer of and then the fan. To do this, I just removed like four bolts at the corners and then four bolts that attached the fan to the cover. At the end, I just unplugged the cables. I got my new fan the very next day, which was like extremly fast, plug in the cables and attached the fan to the cover and then attached the cover to the original place. It's a pretty simple repair. My fridge is now working like it should be.
Simple switch repair: Unplug fridge, pull down to remove switch assembly, slip contacts off. Reverse with replacement switch. HOWEVER, check first to see if the bulb filament might be broken, as this could cause the same symptom. OR in my case, the light socket connection was the culprit. Check that too before ordering a replacement switch.
1. turn off the refrigerator using the inside temp dial 2. take all food out of the refrigerator door 3. pull up the gasket along the door frame and loosen all the screws starting with the bottom and the sides 4. loosen the screws underneath the gasket on the top of the door (be ready to lower the door frame when you loosen the last screw!) 5. pull the old gasket off the door frame 6. put the door frame on the floor insulation side up 7. lay the new gasket out on the floor and use a blow dryer to heat the new gasket to make it flexible 8. put the new gasket on the frame by fitting the crease of the gasket over the edge of the frame making sure that the magnet side of the new gasket is facing the refrigerator when the frame is re-attached 9. apply RTV Silicone sealant along the entire lip of the gasket (on the insulation side of the frame) and press the gasket to the frame to form a bond ( I got a tube of RTV silicone at Wal-Mart in the automotive dept. near the motor oils) 10. wait 5-10 minutes to let the silicone bond to the frame 11. lift the frame up and re-attach to the door starting with the top middle screw first, the side middle screws next, the bottom middle screw last (you may want to get a second person to help hold the frame while you are attaching these initial screws) 12. go back and re-attach all remaining screws 13. close the refrigerator door and check for a good seal all along the gasket 14. your done!
Note: you may want to close the refrigerator door and block it with a chair to keep in some cold air after you remove the frame to install the new gasket
Did the obvious. Removed the stick-out cover, then the back of the freezer wall, after taking the bad evaporator fan out. Replaced the old motor with the new one, stuck the fan blades back on, and put the replacement back in place. Checked to see that the new motor and fan, before final hook up, had no issues. That was a success. However, when I put the parts in place, I had some significant vibrations. By taking things apart and re-doing the install, the vibrations went away. However, the final install, even if quiet, did not work. Apparently the condenser was kaput. No cooling after all the adjustments. We gave up and are replacing the fridge.
I removed the plastic cowl in the rear of the freezer to gain access to the fan, took out two screws that secured the brackets holding the fan. Then I separated the coupling wires which had a sort of locking mechanism that was simple to undue. I took out the brackets along with the fan, separated the brackets and removed the screw for the ground wire. Then I simply reversed the process.
Removed the old and installed the new. Electrical plug/socket made connection easy. Biggest problem is working space in freezer side of a side by side with the fan in the back. If I can do it anyone can.
Both the Freezer and Refrigerator Seals were defeated.
You lift the old seal and unscrew the nut, being careful not to break the plastic holding the seal down, do not remove the screw the whole way. If you take your time and be methodic it is not difficult, just time consuming. Remove the old seal and start putting the new seal in. I would advise finger tightening the screws every 12 inches or so as you go. Then go back and tighten each side as you complete it.
Wasn't sure if it was the derost timer or the heating element. Since the timer was much cheaper, I bought it and crossed my fingers. My story is like the others. Unplug the refrigerator, snip the old wires, strip back the wire insulation, use the supplied connectors to attach the new defrost timer to the existing wiring. Success! My coils no longer freeze up. Only difficulty is I am a large guy, and fitting my upper body into the freezer was challenging.