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The spray arm would fall off during the washing cycle.
Repair was simple. I unscrewed the old grommet which held the old spray arm and screwed-on the new one. About 30 seconds was required. Other people having this problem should note that the spray-arm is made of three pieces which are inseparable when the arm is new. The arm is sold in this form. However, when your machine is having the problem that the arm falls off, the three pieces become separate. When you want to replace the spray arm, only one new part needs to be ordered because this part encompases all three components.
Remove the bottom cover plate. Disconnect the water inlet and black rubber hose. Remove 2 mounting screws. Pull out electrical connector. Reverse order. Be sure to get the brass inlet connector really tight so it won't leak. I did the final tightning after the part is mounted. Not a bad repair at all. The only problem was that it leaked in the first place and messed up my subfloor and laminate flooring.
First I opened the door all the way. Second I reached down to the bottom gasket then grabed it on the right end of the seal that is on the right side of the door. Then I pulled the end outward from the bottom of the door toward the heater coil in the bottom of the washer. It came out real easy. You see it just snaps into a little plastic groove under the door. I then cleaned up the area for food and soap particules. I then placed the new gasket in place by lining up the notch toward the right end with the piece of plastic that encloses the right end of the plastic notch on the bottom right end of the door. Then push it in untill it stops going into the notch. It snaps in but does not make a snaping sound. It just won't go in no more.
I have had to keep replacing the spray arm on the bottom of my dishwasher which takes like 2 seconds to do.. First you open the dishwasher and than pull the bottom basked forward and reach down and pull the spray arm up and pop the bottom of the spray arm off and put it on the new spray arm and slip it back into the dishwasher over the thing that makes it spin around.. but the tricky part is and I didn't know this and this is why my dishwasher spray arm kept falling over and melting on the heating element.. you have to turn it till it clicks in.. and your done..
I removed old tub gasket, which the door presses against to make a seal, and put the new one in. Flat tip screwdriver was used to gently press gasket in.
1. Shut off water supply. 2. Removed inlet water hose where it connects to the vavle assembly. 3. Removed the two bracket screws holding the assembly to the frame, and detached the electrical connection from the solinoid. 4. Removed the inlet hose adapter connection from old valve and installed into new valve. 5. Attached electrical connection to new valve solinoid. 6. Remounted assembly to the frame. 7. Re-attached the inlet water hose to the hose adapter connection on the valve. 8. Turned on the water, washed some dishes.
Received the part 3 working days after order. Part was exactly like the original. Removed the door. Slipped off old gasket and replaced with new gasket. Replaced door and tried rinse cycle. Worked perfectly.
With the door wide open and lower dishtray out, I pulled the old gasket out of its channel. I cleaned the channel with a rag and replaced it with the new gasket. It needed to be trimmed about an inch in order to get the door to close properly. Took me about 5 minutes. Then I removed the old bottom door gasket. Just grasped the plastic edge showing while the door is completely open. Pull outward with fingers moving toward the heating element. Cleaned this area also. Took the new gasket with notch on the right hand side of the dishwasher and pushed it into place. If you get down and look closely, you can see where the notch hooks up. The rest of the piece just slides in after that. Hasn't leaked since! No leaks AND no service call fee. Parts came super fast! So glad I found this website. I'm a housewife, you can do this!
The hardest part was disconnecting the dishwasher. the motor is located on the bottom so after pulling it out and laying it down on the front of the machine the motor unplugs and 2 screws hold it in place.The new motor comes with "O" rings so I applied a little grease and put it back together. 2 minutes to replace motor, 15 minutes to disconnect water and electric, 15 to reconnect.
I looked under and found that 2 brass nuts that secured the heater element through the base housing of the dishwasher has split down each side of the nut and no longer was tight enough to keep water from leaking around either end of the heater element. I powered down the dishwasher at the circuit breaker and then reached under the dishwasher and pulled away the 2 wires that were attached to each side of the heater element. I removed the two nuts and replaced them with the parts I ordered from partselect.com. I then put the appropriate wires back at the end of the heater element and ran the dishwasher to check for leaks. No leaks... it was fixed.
Water in dishwasher did not heat up. Dishes came out dirty and greasy. Some fungus started to grow in dishwasher.
Unplugged the dishwasher. Closed and disconnected the water supply. Removed two screws that attached the dishwasher to the countertop. Pulled the dishwasher out from underneath the countertop. Laid the dishwasher on its side to access the bottom. The high limit thermostat had shorted out and showed signs of electrical burn. I removed the high limit thermostat by unscrewing the single screw that holds it in place. I then pulled the two electrical terminals off the high limit thermostat . One terminal (i.e. small electrical plug connecting electrical wire to high limit thermostat) was burned badly. I cut it off the wire and attached a generic terminal bought at local hardware store (six for $3). The other terminal was fine. I plugged the new high limit thermostat in and attached it with the single screw to the dish washer. Put the dishwasher back in place. Test ran dish washer and dishes came out shiny, clean and dry. Done.
The strip comes right out when you pull, there is a space to grip it on the left and pull it out. The notch goes on the right side when you put it back in; it only goes in one way. I didn't get it all the way in the first time and closed the door; the gasket came right out. A clear sign that I had done something wrong! So I put it in again, this time pushing it as far as it would go. It went all the way in and stayed. It doesn't click or anything, but you can kind of feel when the notches all connect. Also, it doesn't slide right out again.... very easy!