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This OEM filter measures 2.5 inches deep, 12.5 inches high, 5 inches wide and roughly 1.5 lbs. It is recommended to replace this filter every six months or 300 gallons, whichever comes first. If you n...
$86.79
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This ice maker assembly is a genuine OEM replacement unit for LG refrigerators. It is responsible for producing and dispensing ice cubes. You can find the ice maker assembly inside the freezer compart...
$230.28
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This water tubing clip holds the water fill tube in place in your refrigerator. The water fill tube attaches and supplies water to the ice maker/water dispenser in your fridge-freezer. If the tubing i...
$16.78
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removed the upper freezer door to access screws to remove lower door. laid bottom door on its side, removed bad bushing, put new bushing in, put bottom door back on refridge, put upper door back on fridge. Door worked easy as when new. good closure of door and story..Happy customer, and wife even happier.....thank you....
removed 3 fasteners for top door and placed freezer door aside, then removed 3 more fasteners on bottom refrigerator door and place that aside. replaced bushing on lower door bracket and reversed the above procedure to reinstall doors.
This is bottom drawer type frige. Icemaker is inside (not in the door) and hard to reach. I first tested the solenoids by disconnecting them and using a test cord, energized them independent of the frige wiring. They worked ok. Note: this frige has (2) solenoids going to the icemaker. And it has (3) solenoids serving the water disp
... Read moreenser. The icemaker solenoids are wired in parallel. I removed the icemaker by removing (1) screw from the bottom and loosening (2) on the top. Then removed icemaker as a complete unit disconnecting the wire connector at the same time. On the bench I tested the icemaker to verify it was defective. The wire harness has a 10 amp fuse in the black wire (hot wire). `The fuse was blown. This was sufficient to indicate the icemaker is shot. I did however, do some other tests. Cold resistance of the mold heater was 72 ohms. The timer motor was 4000 ohms. These measurements should be ok. I then activated the icemaker with a test cord, bypassing the blown fuse. The unit cycled one complete rotation then stopped. The mold heater worked. I tested the amp draw on the mold heater and it was only .1 amps. I should be a about .8 amps. I then cycled it again and then the timer motor began to sizzle and smell. Then it smoked and stopped mid-rotation. I then purchased a new icemaker. I believe the mold heater was going bad over time as this unit made ice but very slowly. This put extra strain on the motor as the mold was not releasing quickly. This damaged the motor causing it to fail.