A206 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Removed front access panel--very easy, two screws at bottom of panel, near the floor. Removed two more hex-headed screws that secure the top panel/lid to the top of the washing machine frame.
Most difficult problem was identifying the source of the leak. I saw water running out of a white, rectangular (about 1" x 3/4" x 3/4") box-like device that was installed in the water line that leads from the mixing valve (blue box, mounted at the back of washer) to the top of the tub. Discovered this device is called the injector assembly, have not yet been able to figure out what function it serves.
Disconnected one of the hose clamps that secure the injector assembly to the water hose. Removed the rubber injector valve and injector nozzle, the two parts that fit inside the above-described "box." Soaked the assembly "box" in vinegar to eliminate hard-water deposits. Replaced the two internal parts (injector nozzle & injector valve) with new (about $15, including shipping). This almost resolved the problem, still saw a small amount of water leaking from the whole assembly, but only about 5% of what was leaking. Haven't yet figured out why it's not completely dry, or what function that injector assembly serves.

Turn the water supply off. Disconnected the hot and cold hoses from wahing machine. Unplugged the machine from power supply. Removed two screws holding the water inlet valve to the machine frame.
Took the old valve out and marked the wire connectors. Removed the wire connectors and the remaining hose from the old valve. Took the new valve and connected the wires paying attention to the markings made earlier. Uses the little adapter hose which came with the new valve to make the new hose connection on the outlet side of the valve. Put everything back and it worked fine.
These partselect guys are very prompt in sending the things you order. I have used them many times and am very happy to deal with these guys.

The instructions were clear. Did every step. Did 2 loads so far and everything works like new.

Removed front, loosened top & tilted up. Placed tub top assuring it would not rub inner basket. Placed clamp on Ridge & gasket & tightened. Reassembled & started washing.

I used two vise grip wrenches in place of specialized tool that is no longer available. I put the vice grip wrenches on the brake assembly and hit them alternately with a hammer. I also used penetrating oil.

Note, the parts package stated made in USA but the bearings had China stamped on them.

Removed two screws and lifted the control console then tilted forward the shell. Removed two screws holding the latch cover and assembly then disconnected two wires. I played with the assembly until I discoved the element was toast. Ordered the part but when I got it I was confused because it had three prongs (two on one side and one on the other) when the burnt one had only one and one and I only had 2 disconnect wires. I thought I had gotten the wrong part but figured it out. Actually putting the assembly together was the easy part, trying to get the outer shell back together was a little tough. Between taking it a part, figuring out what was wrong and ordering and receiving the part was about three weeks. So when putting it all together took awhile but I did it and it works great.

My washer is very old but in very good condition, it was my mothers when I was a teenager and now I am 50! This is the first repair ever done on it, my son was sure I should just buy a new one but my daughter and I had other ideas. We went on line and looked it up and followed easy directions and found the small part that was leaking right away.It had just worn out. we then ordered the parts for under $20.00 and within a few day's it was here and we were back in the laundry washing. Thank you soooo much, we are not going to let this one down with my son for some time =)

Lets just say thank god for part select!!!! # 1 By far. This was a one two three job.

I turned the water off, detached the hoses and unscrewed the water inlet valve. I unhocked the wires and reattached the wires in the correct sequence on the water inlet valve. Done in 15 minutes.

After turning the water off and unplugging the machine, I took the front panel off the washing machine. I then slipped the belt off the pump sprocket. The pump was right in the front and easy to remove. All I needed was a screwdriver, for the hose clamps, and a 5/16" socket to remove the old pump. I then installed the new pump, with the existing screws, re-attached the 2 hoses, slipped the belt back on, and popped the front panel back into place. The new pump works great and the leak is gone. The whole job onlt took about 30 minutes.

Removed the front panel. Then blocked up the front of the machine. Removed the pump belt. Removed the 3 5/16" screws from the bottom of the old one and tilted it slightly to remove. Put the new one in and reinstalled the 3 screws. Put the belt back on and slid new pump all the way to the right and tightened 1 screw. Loosened the screw until there was about 1/4" of gap when squeezed the belt together. Tightened the one screw, then the other 2. Put the front panel back on and lowered the machine. New pump works great.

Found noise to be belt slapping the base sheet metal, from being too loose. Belt was loose because the drive pulley was worn and one side of pulley was loose! Used allen wrench to loosen the pulley set screw, and pryed off the old pulley. Replace d with new pulley and new belts. Works and sounds like new!

Removed top. Removed agitator and tubs . Replaced seals and reassembled.

Cleaned the cavities. Lubed them with olive oil. Inserted one ball on left side, while holding tension against that side to hold the ball in the lid and top indentations. Applied olive oil to right hand side indentation, and placed the new ball into lid indentation. Put lid down into closure cavity with ball, and with lid vertical, began pushing it rearward so as toslightly spring metal lid rolled edge and top metal away from one another UNTIL the new ball snapped into the hinge indentation in the machine cover. Done.

I unscrewed the bottom two front phillip screws. Lifted the front panel at a right angle then popped off downward. Used a 3/8 socket to unscrew the two screws inside in the upfront corners holding the top to the sides. Pulled off the top bleach line.
Lifted the lid upward until it rested on the back wall. Unscrewed the water fill tube connected to the top side panel which to reach the inlet valve area. wrote down which color of the four wires went where. Unscrewed the back plate and disconnected the valve wires. Reversed procedure for installation. Cleaned other parts while I was in there. Installation went quick and smooth.