A206 Maytag Washer - Instructions

I took the front panel off and was able to easily access and remove the leaking drain pump. Then I propped the front of the washer up onto some boards so that I could put the two pulleys back onto the new pump, then I just tightened the three bolts in order to tighten the pulleys. However,when I started another load of wash there was a leak in the bottom of the tub, so I removed the new pump and went out and bought a new washer, figuring that our 13-year-old Maytag was going to cost more to fix than to buy a new washer. Then I wrapped up the new pump and sent it back. Thanks for all your help and for letting me send back the new part...I received confirmation of my refund today. Bob Trautman

Disconnected the electric plug and removed the water hoses from the washer. Took off the old water inlet valve under a plate on the washer and hooked in the new one. As we dismantled each section of the valve hook-up we connected that area of the new valve to be sure we got it connected correctly.

real simple i just layed it down and replaced the belts DWIGHT SHAW PS. NO TOOLS REQUIRED.

Remove the front panel by removing the screws at the bottom of the panel; remove the screws holding top and swing back on hinges; loosen the screws on the back holding the valve and replace the valve following how the defective one was attached and then reverse the operation.

tilted the machine back 45 degress. took both belts off and replaced them with the 2 new ones. put some tension on the drive belt and put the machine back in place, did a test run and it worked great.

removed 2 screws holding on front panel,tilted machine back and remover belts checked stretch against new belts.stretch was minimal.removed 3 screws of pump from underneath machine.pump impeller was free slipping replaced pump installed new belts reattached front cover& started washing clothes again.less than 15 min to do everything

After watching the video the repairs were easy to do.Thank you for the videos.

Watch the video on how to open this model washer. Unplug the unit. Remove the front panel. remove the bolts so you can lift the top. Disconnect the bleach tube at the top. Lift the top and hold in place with a stick or broom handle. Locate the air gap unit on filler tube. Unscrew the hose clamp on the inlet side of the air gap. Disconnect the hose and pull out the rubber tube. Fold the edges of the rubber valve off the inner nozzle and remove. Install the nozzle into the new Rubber valve. Reverse process to finish.

I hastily (miss diagnosed) the symptoms by assuming that the Drain Pump was in fault, Ordered the Drain Pump part online on Sunday got it early on Wednesday. Installed the Drain Pump but the timer would not move. So back to drawing board. Got on the phone with the nice people on PartSelect ordered the Lid Switch Assembly. Got the part in less than 20 hours To install the Lid Switch assembly remove the back panel by removing 3 sheet metal screws at the top and 2 at the bottom now you will have access to all the wires and the Lid Switch Assembly. It is attached with one sheet metal screw. The hole in the Assembly is slotted so you may have to slide it back and forth for the switch to get activated when you open the door. Installed the part, plugged the washer machine in filled the tank. The washer machine came alive the timer was moving (the washer machine start working again). This washer machine should be good for another 20 years. By the way this was the first breakdown on this washer machine after 20 years of service. Thanks PartSelect for well trained people and prompt service I couldn't have done it with out your help.