YTW4514PN0DG General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Use putty knife to unlock top panel from base. Remove 2 bolts from back of washer holding control section. Don't take completely off. 2 bolts needs to be removed to unsecure top from base. Lastly 2 screws hold lid in place. Remove lid. Slide top panel to left just to access lid lock. Unplug sensor. 1 screw and tabs hold lock in place. Watch position coming out so you don't get confused putting new lock in. Squeeze tabs, replace screw. plug in sensor. Reverse procedure to put top section back together.

The replacement part looked absolutely nothing like the defective part. The old part was easily accessible and was easily unplugged from the wiring harness. I assume when the new part came, I would just plug it into the wiring harness, snap some of the trim pieces in place and be done. 5 minutes. But no. The replacement part was completely different and came with its own wiring harness and length
of wire which had to be installed. The installation of the wiring harness was extremely complicated which involved popping off the control panel of the washer, prying up the top and disconnecting some other pieces to complete the install. There should have been a clear warning on the replacement part, that it was completely different and likely too difficult for a non-professional repair man.

Tilt washer back.
Remove belt gaurd.
Remove belt.
Remove pulley.
Remove clutch and shifter.
Install in reverse order

Replaced the agitator.
Very difficult to remove..Have to apply force and pull.
Theres no bolt inside if the fabric softener part that needed to be adjusted...

Removed the control panel back plate cover. Removed the 3 screws that held the water control valve in place. I then unplugged each solenoid one at a time and plugged it into the new control valve. Once all wires were transferred, I pulled the old valve up and put the new valve on. Then reinstalled the screws that held it down and reinstalled the cover plate. Very simple job !

I removed the back panel at he top of the washer, then remover the two screws that hold the top control panel in place. Then I removed the three screws that held the water valve in place. I removed the valve from the water ports and then disconnected the four electrical connectors. I plugged in the new valve and plugged the valve back into the water ports. Reinstalled the screws, control panel and the back panel. Very easy repair, anyone could do it!

Put washer on it side. Removed shield belt and pulley from motor.
Unplugged and unsnapped speed sensor and replaced with new one . Washer spinning like it should. Problem solved

unplugged old part plugged in new, took about 2 minutes.

this is a great web site, I didn't have to wait for a serviceman to come. and maybe not have the part and come back again. ........thanks

The most important item I learned is the original lid switch is no longer available. It has been replaced with the entire Lid Switch Assembly. I read the new switch is magnetic versus the old which was mechanical. The kit comes with everything you will need (switch, wiring harness, lid lock bezel and instructions). I found the written instructions to not be the easiest to follow. However, I found someone had done a YouTube video on the replacement which made the repair easy (under 15 minutes). Although I did the repair by myself, a second person would be handy to hold the washer cover and controls while changing the wiring harness. When testing the new switch, remember to test during the Spin cycle.

We disconnected the rear of the dashboard and folded it toward. We unsnapped the top cover and exposed the lid lock. We removed the old lid lock and replaced it with the new parts from SelectPart. Put it all back together.

I just took old one out an put new one in

Took off belt/motor housing and replaced belt. Put housing back on. Very easy.

Upper portion of auger spins on bottom portion so they need to be locked together with a screwdriver to twist off counter clockwise. Good instructions here: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Qr4GzTJBho0&vl=en. Someone needs to hold the tub while another uses the strap wrench to turn the auger counter clockwise. Should pop off with a bit of force. New one pops on easy.

Extremely easy. You will need a helper to make it easy. The best directions are on you tube.

Unplugged washer and hoses. Removed 4 screws in back control panel and 4 screws holding control panel down. Drained capacitor and checked that. It was good. Pryed washer top off with screw driver. Used vice grips to remove old and install new spring rods, replacing them one at a time. While lid was off I cut a small diameter pool noodle in half and cut 4 half noodles the size of each side. I unclipped one side of the tub cap and ran an 11" zip tie through the hole in the middle of one side and back up and out where the tub skirt and cap meet, then tied the half noodle to the edge of the tub cap and snapped down cap. Then repeated with the other three sides. I did this so heavier clothes, if they got out of balance, would continue to spin. The noodles keeping the tub from moving too far out of balance. The rod springs helped with lighter loads but still shut down spinning with heavy clothes. The machine always handled heavy clothes for 7 years until the last month or so. If it breaks with the noodles, I'll get another new machine.