MFI2067AES Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

I just exchanged it, was really easy. Ordering of your well set up internet page was very easy and the part arrived extremely fast price was very competitive. I am very happy with the service provided.

we removed all the lower stuff,so we could get to the part.
unscrewed all pieces 3 screws
than removed it all in order..
than the hard part came ,when we had to figure out how to remove all the moving parts.from the back ..after a little wiggling we figured it all out and got a part...the new piece in and all back together...my husband and i did it in about 45 minutes,,,also gave us a chance to get those really hard places in the back to clean...thanks for all your help in helping me id the part..
thanks
linda landsdowne

First it was critical to have gone on-line to see that many other people have had the EXACT problem with their Maytag refrig. It went crazy at 830pm the Wed before Thanksgiving! There would have been NO WAY that we could have had that repaired with the holiday! I went to Parts Select and ordered the part that very night ( they were open and taking customer service calls until 11p EST). They had the part to us first thing Monday morning!

The installation was simple and they provided perfect instructions as to the programming of the code.

I cant believe that Maytag has not dome some sort of recall on the control board for these refrigerators. When we looked at the old one, there was moisture on the plastic panel and the 2 capacitors were corroded and bulging. We are going to try and get those replaced, so we have a spare board.

It was a whole lot cheaper to replace the board, and many would just resort to paying a repair bill of >$500.00 for the cost of a $200.00 part and about 15 minutes. You dont have to be an electronics major to fix this either!

This whole thing saved us well over $2500.00, as we are not buying a new refrigerator. I will say that we will never buy another Maytag at this point! All beware and might want to have an extra control board handy!

A jar was dropped on the chef's pantry lid and cracked the lid. I unhinged one side of the lid from the pantry drawer by gently pushing outward on one of the hinge pins. The lid slid out easily. I then reversed the process using the new lid and it went in smoothly. Be sure to align the lid so it rests on the shoulder of the pantry drawer. Simple task, no tools, and less than 5 minutes effort. The replacement part was perfect.

Unscrewed all related parts and also took out drawers and glass shelf. Reused plastic slider which raps around right corner to the back wall of the unit. Make sure to remember how this plastic slider fits into the new end cap, it is a little tricky putting it back without cracking it. Suggest take a digital picture as to how it fits together before taking the slider out of the old end cap. Reinstall same way as you took it out. Good time to clean while everything is out of the bottom of the refrigerator.

The old cover was off and I just slid the replacement part that I got from you'll, it just slid in place and snapped close. Perfect fit. Thanks guys

Looked at the new part to determine what I would need to remove the old part. It was very easy to figure out. I removed the old end cap by taking out the screws. Once the screws were out I popped the side of the end cap off. There is a horizontal piece along the back wall that is connected to the end cap. On the left side of this piece of plastic there is a small tab that clicks into the back wall. On the right hand end cap there is a sliding lever which controls the air in the deli tray. This control is made of plastic and appears to be pretty fragile> By gently bending this lever I was able to remove the control lever and install it on the new end cap. In all it took me about 15 minutes to complete the entire job. Very easy.

First pull out bucket, then slide side plastic piece that hides wire harness on lower left side out.. Then pull /slide whole unit forward/out. Disconnect wire harness plug when doing so. Set old unit on table standing on end, put new unit right next to it. remove whole tray assembly from old unit, 3 screws on back. Use new wire harness that comes with new ice maker. put new tray assembly on end unit where the other came off. replace the three screws holding it to fan unit. remove on/off switch from old unit and put in new unit cover. Use small screw driver to remove old end switch cover. On off switch is pushed into place on new end cover. Purple wire on bottom plug and other on top. observe what you have and Just replace what you removed. Piece I did not use was flat plastic piece,flapper? This did not come with instructions, so basically I changed everything incl wire harness, put back together and put back in freezer. Ice bucket was full by next morning. Instructions and or video would have been nice. Tool;s used was a 1/4 in nut driver, small flat blade screwdriver.

Maytag PS12349472 CNTRL-ELEC W11221359
If you can fix things around the house, you can do this!
First, try resetting the touchpad by unplugging the refrigerator electrical cord for about 10 seconds, then plug it back in and try the touchpad. If it starts working you don’t need to replace it yet.
If it doesn’t work, order the replacement touchpad and install it as follows. The one I ordered came with the low power control panel (#13). This repair takes about 30-45 minutes depending how much elbow grease is required to clean the old touchpad’s adhesive off the front panel. Read all the steps below first before attempting this repair.
Step 1. Unplug refrigerator electrical cord.
Step 2. Remove drip tray (#14) and remove two screws with nutdriver.
Step 3. Remove front panel (#11).
Step 4. Disconnect low power control board (#13) from all wiring harnesses.
Step 5. Remove low power control board (#13) from front panel (#11).
Step 6. Remove touchpad (#12) from front panel (#11).
Step 7. Clean adhesive completely from front panel (#11).
IMPORTANT: DO NOT USE ABRASIVES - use appropriate solvent (e.g. rubbing alcohol, Goo-Gone, Krud Kutter, etc.) to remove adhesive completely from front panel (#11) - DO NOT USE ABRASIVES.
Step 8. Mount new low power control board (#13) on front panel (#11).
Step 9. Very carefully align and mount new touchpad (#12) on front panel (#11).
IMPORTANT: Pull new touchpad wiring harness all the way through the opening to the back of the front panel (#11) before exposing the new touchpad’s (#12) adhesive backing. Mount new touchpad (#12) exactly where the old one used to be.
Step 10. Reconnect all wiring harnesses to low power control board (#13).
Step 11. Mount front panel (#11), install two screws with nudriver, and drip tray (#14) back on refrigerator.
Step 12. Plug in refrigerator and check operation of new touchpad (#12).

Replaced mullion and pivot block
The pivot block and the mullion showed signs of wear and tear where they would meet up to close the left door.

The old plactic ring can be removed with flat bladed screw driver, starting on the right side prying it up worked best for me. The new seal snaps in only one way take your time to get it wright.

Maytag Refrigerator – MFI2568AES - Replacing ice maker.

PartSelect Number PS8260210
Manufacturer Part Number W10583817

Tools used:
Small 1/4 in nut driver
Small flat blade screwdriver
Needle nose pliers
Flashlight
Time: about 30 minutes

#1 Unplug the refrigerator.

#2 Pull out the ice bucket.

#3 Slide bottom left edge plastic cover that hides the wire harness out. (To do this you need a small screw driver to pry the front out a bit and to insert into the slot in the middle to unlock it, then pull forward. Be careful not to break).

#4 Disconnect wire harness. (Plug has a small catch in the middle you must press to pull apart).

#5 Pull the whole unit out. (To do this you need to pry a small catch on the left out, then pull. It may be tight since it’s been in there a while and there is a small rubber water tube protruding from the roof that it will rub against).

#6 Carefully empty any water still in the icemaker into the sink. (Try not to get any of the electrical components on the fan assembly wet. If you do, a blow dryer works well to dry out quickly).

#7 Put old unit on a large table and new unit / parts next to it.

#8 Remove ice maker and tray assembly from old unit, three screws on bottom of ice maker. (Do not confuse with the three screws holding the ice dispenser motor in place). Unplug wire harness, remove small funnel.

Replacement Parts Assembly - The next few steps get a bit tricky as you may need to do several things simultaneously.

#9 Route new wiring harness. Route under the plastic clips on the new plastic tray. (Black connector and switch wires run around the bottom left corner of the ice maker head to the front).

#10 Install the new water funnel. Loosely attach new tray assembly to new ice maker ensuring wire harness is routed properly. Plug in the wire harness connectors with the exception of the black connector and the O/I switch wires.

#11 Push loosely assembled unit onto fan assembly ensuring correct funnel seating. Secure the entire assembly by replacing the three screws.

#12 Connect the black connector to the ice maker head. (Match up the holes)

#13 Check your work. (If you forgot something or misrouted your wires you may need to take it apart and do it again).

#14 Remove O/I switch from old unit. (Use a small screw driver to pop out and needle nose pliers to carefully remove the connectors). CAUTION: Be very careful as these switch connectors are not very robust and can easily pull right out of the switch if not done very carefully. (Why a new unit doesn’t come with a new off/on switch is beyond me).

#15 Push O/I switch into place on new end cover. Install power wires.

#16 Carefully push the cover onto the head ensuring the cables do not bind or get pinched.

#17 Check your work.

#18 Install plastic flapper onto the control rod. (This takes a little study to get it on right).

#19 Install control rod/ flapper assembly into hole on the ice maker. (Note: Ensure rod is all the way in and that it also goes through the hole at the opposite end. The position seems a bit odd at first but after the ice maker cycles it will drop into position. This is needed to let the ice maker know when the ice bucket is full of ice).

#20 Carefully slide assembled icemaker into freezer. (Mine was tight but it will slowly pop into place). Ensure the catch pops back into place. Observe the rubber hose protruding from the roof, it should be directly over the small funnel.

#21 Reattach the wiring harness.

#22 Reinstall the wire harness cover.

#23 Flip the switch to on. ( O = OFF I = ON )

#24 Reinstall the Ice bucket.

#25 Plug in the refrigerator.

#26 Wait several hours and you should start getting ice.

Saw U tube instrctions how to install and it was easy

Took a putty knife and
Removed the old switch removed the spade terminals from the old switch and replaced them on the new switch and just pushed the new switch back in place

We came home from a long vacation to discover a warm refrigerator with its contents in various stages of decay.

Turning the freezer thermostat to its warmest setting then back to cold generated clicks, and after a few tries the compressor started and cooled the refrigerator to its normal cold temperatures. But… later the compressor again failed to start, and everything warmed back up again. With persistence and turning the thermostat up and down several times a day, we could keep the fridge cold.

It was time to order parts. We needed a new start relay and capacitor for the compressor. For our Amana ARB2214CW a start relay (WP12555902) and capacitor (WP65889-4) were listed on the first page of the Partselect parts list for my refrigerator. I ordered them, received them, removed the old capacitor and start relay (which rattled when shaken). and prepared to install my new parts. The new start relay did not match the old. The old start relay fit my wiring which had a single plug with two small female spade connectors in the plug. The new start relay required wiring with two separate female spade connectors; one the normal size and one larger. Phone calls to Partselect and to Westinghouse shed no light on the discrepancy. On the second page of the Partselect parts list was a combination of a start relay and a capacitor (W10613606) that matched my electrical connector. I could see the connection in the photograph. I ordered it and it fit. Easy peazy. That fixed the compressor start problem. Every time the freezer thermostat clicked on, the compressor started. Success.

But… from our troubleshooting we now had a thermometer the freezer, and it was obvious that the temperature difference between the cold point where the thermostat turned the compressor off and the warm point where the thermostat restarted the compressor was much too wide. In addition, the knob was hard to turn and was sticky as it turned. Oiling it fixed the sticky knob problem but not the wide temperature difference problem. I ordered a new freezer thermostat (WP67003000), received it, installed it, and all is now fine with my refrigerator. The new thermostat was physically a little different from the original, but it fit and worked.

I returned the first compressor start relay and capacitor and received a refund including the shipping charge.