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Surface burner switch malfunction allowing the burner to remain on high heat after turning to low heat.
I removed two small screws located on the underside of the control panel. I then rotated the bottom of the control panel up and dislodged the few connections at top back of control panel. The control panel became loose enough to lay forward exposing the inner control switches. The old problem switch wiring was removed one by one and placed in the same spot on the new switch. The old switch was then removed by pulling off the front control knob and then unscrewing two screws holding the old switch in place. Then the new switch was installed exactly as the old switch was removed.
Remove the two screws from the back wall holding the element. Remove from the three clips holding the element up and pull forward slightly. Remove the clips from the ends of the elements. Put back in reverse order.
When moving the range, the 220 wire popped off the terminal and arced melting the plastic terminal
I looked for a new terminal locally, but no one had s terminal that would fit a 40-year old range. I went on line to PartSelect and could not find my model range, so I looked through all the terminals listed on the website (about 500) but found only one that was close to mine. Mounting holes did not match, but it had 3 connectors with 220 capability, so I ordered it. I requested express shipping by UPS and thought I paid for the extra charge. When I got notification of shipment. I saw it was via ground. It went from Louisville to Jacksonville to Clearwater, FL. I ordered it on Thursday night and received it the following Tuesday night. Meanwhile, we had no stove to cook on. When the part came, it took two days to get the contractor back to our condo. He drilled new holes on the mounting box and jerry-rigged the wiring to make it fit. The range is now working, but I was disappointed in the delay in shipping which I agreed to express shipping.
Before ordering, I took the element out to make sure I could do it. A flashlight was helpful.
I flipped off the circuit breakers to the stove, removed the racks and lifted off the oven door. Not having a nutdriver or socket set, I used a 6' crescent wrench to remove the two screws which hold the element to the back of the oven. I carefully pulled the element out until the spade connectors to the wires were exposed. I wiggled the connectors apart. I had pliers handy, but didn't need them.
I connected the new element to the wires and gently pushed the two connected prongs through their holes, trying not to disturb the insulation. I put a little WD-40 on the screws so they would go in easier. After tightening the screws with the crescent wrench, I replaced the racks and door. I flipped the circuit breaker back on and reset the clock. It works as good or better than new.
Easy Repair. Remove the storage draw under the oven. It lifts out. Lift oven door off of hinges. Remove 3 screws & unhook the spring. Reverse the procedure with the new hinge. Good as new.
After reading the other DIY's directions, we explored how to remove oven door. When the part came in, my sister who was visiting, removed the oven door (30seconds), removed bottom drawer (30 seconds), noted where spring was attached, took off screws and spring, installed new hinge with roller, took a minute to decide if the new hinge came through the back or the front (front), she reattached the spring and screws. Put door back on and then struggles to put the drawer back into place. Total time less than 5 mintues, most time spent on returning bottom drawer to its home. Thanks part select for helping me not burn my self every time I try and get food out of the oven!!! I open the oven door all the way and am so delighted!!
F2 error code when oven was set at a higher temperature.
I pretty much followed the youtube video posted under the part that I needed. Turned off electricity to that area of the house. Unplugged stove. Took out the old sensor, pushed new sensor cord through the back hole. I did put a small amount of tape,so I could pull it through from the back better. It was impossible to get the clip disconnected in the back and the new clip didn't match up correctly anyway. Ended up having to cut the wires and strip them. I twisted them together and put on the ceramic wire nuts on. Reversed ever thing I did and F3 appeared. Looked that code up on internet. It was from an open or shorted oven. Suggested I check the connections. Pulled stove out again, unscrewed caps on wires and noticed the sensor's wire had another cloth type coating on it. I gentle cut that off, twisted and capped wires again. Plugged in oven, turn on electricity, and tried out stove. Everything is working just fine. Everything took a little longer because this was first time doing this type of repair.
1. Turned off power at the breaker box. Removed oven door from oven, and removed bake racks. Determined replacement element from PartSelect was correct. Inspected new element. Using meter, determined new element was OK via continuity test. Gathered all appropriate tools to do the job. 2. Using 1/4" nut driver, removed two retaining screws at back of oven that secure element 3. Pulled bad element out a few inches from oven back to reveal wires and spade connectors 4. Using screwdriver, pushed off electrical connectors from bad element and removed element 5. Inspected wires and connectors and determined them to be OK 6. Installed new element in reverse of above. Inspected oven controls and determined them to be OK. Turned on the breaker. Tested oven. 7. Baked a delicious chocolate cake
