Gasket 4036ER4001B

Started with some resin paper on the floor, some painter’s tape, and a sharpie to keep track of screws and removed parts (painter’s tape to stick hardware to). Set up iPad on dryer and followed every step by step instruction by pausing the video. The instructions were perfect (but would have liked some more close up shots). Installation of new bearings was exactly as demonstrated and truly appreciated the step by step descriptions to put it all back. Hardest part of the repair was replacing the wire ring on the rubble gasket — only step not displayed. Suggestions for future repair videos: 1) how to organized hardware as removed; 2) more close ups; 3) a video showing the problem at the start followed by a video showing post repair. As a visual person, I have spend the past few days watching the spin cycle wondering if there is a wobble or shudder etc… Similar to the feeling of buying a used car…every clunk or shudder gets you worried. Love that I saved $1000 plus taking on the repair.

I researched the symptom, watched a repair video, ordered the parts: one rear bearing, seal, and gasket. After disassembly found inner bearing to be bad. Ordered inner bearing. Then found the spider or hub shaft corroded, and ordered spider. Finally with all the parts replaced, assembled washer and returned it to service.

The repair went good but time consuming. I replaced both inner and outer tub bearings along with the tub seal. I removed top by removing two screws in back then pulling back slighty then lifting up. I removed soap tray by pressing down tab and pulling out. Loosened soap dispenser and folded back on top. I removed control panel then front door panel. Remove back panel. Remove motor and shocks and hanging springs which there are two. Disconnect the hoses attached to tub then pull the tub. Remove screws holding the tub halves together. Use punch to remove bearings. NOTE: If you put the bearings in the freezer prior to installing, they go in much easier. I used the old bearing, set it on the new bearing then I tapped the old bearing so not to damage new bearings. I replaced the seal then put everything back together. Not difficult but time consuming.

Watched a step-by-step video on you tube and ordered parts. I took apart the washer by following the steps in the same video to disassemble. Once apart I took the opportunity to pressure wash the tub and housing then let dry overnight. It takes a minute to get the washer apart then back together, but no part was difficult. No special tools were needed. Before I put the back and top panel on, I hooked a garden hose with a splitter to the supply lines and ran a cycle in the garage just to make sure all connections were nice and tight. No issues. Washer is running like a champ since. As you take the washer apart for this type of repair you basically unhook or remove every single part that could go out. Great opportunity to familiarize yourself with other components for the "next time".

I removed the tub. Thin included disassembling the washer and disconnecting various hoses electrical connectors to facilitate the removal of the tub from the machine.
Once removed, I separated the two halves of the tub and removed the metal basket to gain access to the bearings and seal.
Removal of the bearings was much harder than expected as they were very difficult to drive out of their pressed in mounting.
I finally was able to remove the bearings and fabricated a press using a piece of all thread and two steel plates to install the new bearings and seal.
I would not attempt to do this again with the proper bearing pullers and an official press to install the bearings gently without beating the tub housing.
This repair I feel is beyond the scope of your average DIY. The bearings can be damaged easily without the specialized tools to install the components.

Watched a YouTube video on how to disassemble the washer step by step, replace the bearings, and reassemble the machine. was very helpful.

Methodically, no hurry and it went smooth. Most difficult was removing old bearings and installing the new. Glad I had experience doing this. Would not recommend this as a first time experience replacing bearings. Replaced shocks in the process, glad we did, made a huge difference.

Viewed two (2) on-line video's for bearing replacement. Produced a 40 item "punch list" as to action to perform following video. Followed sequencing of video's. Noted a 10mm and 17 mm socket needed, used 3/8 drive sockets. Also noted that a "deep Socket" of unspecified size used to aid in removal of nylon pins attaching (3) shock absorbers. Found that 1/2 inch sized (SAE) socket in my 1/2 inch drive socket set fit in the confined space nicely. Did not need the "deep sockets" (3 plus inch overall length) rather a normal sized 1/2 drive socket worked nicely to depress the nylon pin retainers. During reassemble replaced outer tub gasket, checked bolt torque six (6) times over 45 min. to assure complete seating.

as expected, the rear bearings were GONE!.. hard part was removing the inner tub from the outer one. hint... put the bolt in the shaft, tighten and pond the crap out of it ... takes time but the tub will come out, after that it's easy

Google LG washing machine bearing replacement, you'll find a very informative video narrated by a British gentleman who will walk you through the steps. If you are even a slightly handy DIY'er this is an easy job although very time consuming. Take your time with reassembling the machine. I missed a couple of connections and while testing it out I flooded the laundry room. Could have been avoided if I had taken a picture of every individual item I disconnected.