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Rear Tub Gasket

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15 Reviews
$25.44   In Stock

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PartSelect Number PS3522855
Manufacturer Part Number 4036ER2004A
Manufactured by LG
Product Description

Rear Tub Gasket Specifications

If you notice your washing machine is leaking water from the top of the transmission, it might be due to the gasket being damaged or worn down. When replacing your gasket, consider replacing your tub bearings at the same time. The gasket (or seal) is located at the back of the outer tub of your washing machine. To access this part you will need to pull the top off of the appliance by releasing the screws holding it in place. This part is sold individually, is black in color, and measures 3 inches in diameter.
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Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Noisy | Leaking | Shakes and moves
This part works with the following products:
Washer.
This part works with the following products:
LG, Kenmore.
Part# 4036ER2004A replaces these:
AP4438637, 4036ER2004A
Questions and Answers

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Customer Repair Stories
 Average Repair Rating: 2.5 / 5.0, 9 reviews. What's this?
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    Sorry, we couldn't find any existing installation instruction that matched.
    Bearing seal out causing bearings to get wet and very noisy
    Watched a short video to figure out to remove panels. After panels were off I removed as much as I could from the inside of the machine. This was not completely necessary however for an extra half hour it made inspection, cleanup and removal of tub housing out the front of the machine much easier. Once out, I split the two halves of the outer basin and sprayed the spider shaft with penetrating oil. Using a brass drift I did have to get a bit aggressive to drive spider shaft out, then I used a heavy metal punch to hammer out the bearings. For those who may not know using brass or a soft metal will keep from damaging reusable parts. At this point it was cleanup time, with dish soap I scrubbed the two halves of the outer basin and the wash basin itself then used emery cloth on the bearing casing and spider shaft. I am a firm believer if u take the time to cleanup properly things go back together much easier. At this point I began to reassemble, replacing tub bearings and seal, the wash basin then putting the two halves of the outer basin back together. I strongly recommend replacing gasket for the halves of the outer basin, for as much as it takes to get there it is money well spent to up the chances of a leak free system. Now with the wash tub back together it was time to reset the tub and hook everything back up. I skipped a lot of steps but if a person pays attention, takes pictures if they have to, even numbers lines with a sharpie it is a very easy repair. Very easy but very time consuming. I am DIY’er, in all I spent about ten hours over two days to do this job. Thus being said I am very particular spent a lot of time cleaning, scrubbing looking at as many wear points and checking for rubbed wires. Hope this helps someone out there, definitely not a strong writer or like doing it. Oh one other thing, I ordered the shocks on the bottom side of wash tub just because I guess not thinking they were bad just thinking I could help tune it up. Was surprised to find the old ones were completely shot, was glad I ordered new ones. After repairs, noise is gone and machine is quiet again. Thank you, your website is very easy to find parts and order.
    Other Parts Used:
    Locking Pin BEARING,BALL Washer Tub Bearing, Rear Gasket Shock Absorber Kit
    • Todd from STOCKTON, KS
    • Difficulty Level:
      Really Easy
    • Total Repair Time:
      More than 2 hours
    • Tools:
      Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
    55 of 57 people found this instruction helpful.
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    Dry bearing noise, rough bearing, very loud in spin cycle
    I went online and looked at the different parts companies for this brand of washer. This is an LG Tromm steam washer. I am pretty mechanically inclined so I watched videos on this machine which you can also find on line and U-Tube and took down some notes that I felt relevant for the disassembly and the repair. I looked at the break down parts schematics and ordered all the parts I felt I needed for this machine. The parts I ordered were the tub hub seal and the inner and outer bearings that go on the spindle shaft which is connected to a piece they call the spider that connects to the inner tub. I also ordered the outer tub o-ring where the outer tub splits in half. Note that I mentioned the spider and that they have a tendency to corrode bad, but you cannot see it until it is disassembled, the parts I ordered are reasonable, the spider can cost upwards of a hundred plus dollars so make sure you evaluate the cost of parts to the age of your machine and to the cost of a new one. Well on my front load washer when I finally took it apart and I felt I got lucky with just the two spindle hub bearings and the seal and the outer tube seal. After looking at the videos and taking some notes, written and mental, I started the disassembly of the washer. First " unplug the power to the washer". the next step is to shut off your two water supplies to the washer and disconnect the hot and cold water lines, note that I disconnected the lines at the washer just for the convenience of not having those lines hanging off the machine and out of your way. another note is that you will want an area with some space so you can keep everything organized and give yourself some room to work. Once you have your machine moved to a open space, start by removing the top of the machine. there are two screws, 4 total in the back of the cover that are removed with a plastic bracket on each side, these are Phillips head or cross type screws. once removed, take the top and shift it back about 1 to 1.5 inches, you then can lift the top off and out of the way. The next step is to remove the front control panel by starting with the wire connectors that go into the control panel. Each connecter is different so there is no mix up. next is to remove your soap dispenser tray, on top of the tray about in the center towards the back is a spot that you gently push down on and this will release the tray for removal and move it out of the way. There are two Phillip screws on each side where you removed the tray that need to be removed to be able to remove the dispenser section out of the way. there are hoses connected to the dispenser but once lifted up an out you can lay the dispenser with the hoses connected over towards the back. There is a large rubberized hose connection that needs to be removed which has a clamp on it that you need to loosen up to take loose the connection. back to the front control panel there is one more screw on the back side on the right side looking at the front that must be removed then the front control panel assembly can be removed. there are some plastic clips on the control panels back side that need undone, gently and be careful not to force these clips but slightly lift up on the rear of the control panel and it should come out of there and then set the control panel aside. There are I believe 6 screws on the top of the front door panel assembly that need removed but before you do that down on the left bottom corner you have a panel door which pops open then is easily removed out of the way. there is a small rubber line with a plug in the end of it which can be pulled a little ways. Get a container that is low profile and pull the plug on the hose and direct it into the container, you may or may not get any water out of it, it is the tub drain. reinstall plug when done and put line back in place. Next take the pump screen out by unscrewing it out counter clockwise like a bolt, it is about 1.5 inches in diameter, you may want to put a small towel down in front of it because you will usually get a little water out of it. Once removed, inspect the plastic screen for any debri and remove it and reinstall the screen. Now down in that same area below the screen there is a Phillips screw which needs to be removed and set aside. Now you go to the rubber boot behind the washer door when the door is open on the outer edge there is a metal wire that goes around the boot to hold it in place with a spring on it. You want to gently take a flat blade screw driver and not to tear the boot, work that wire and spring out of its groove and remove it out of the way. now you may take the rubber boot on the front and take it off its edge and push it back in towards the tub. Now we go back to the six screws at the top of the panel and remove them. at this time you should be able to lean the panel out enough to disconnect the wires to the door latch. Once the door latch has been disconnected, lift up on the front door panel and bring it out
    Other Parts Used:
    Washer Tub Bearing Washer Tub Bearing, Rear Gasket
    • Cherie from PHOENIX, AZ
    • Difficulty Level:
      Easy
    • Total Repair Time:
      More than 2 hours
    • Tools:
      Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
    18 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
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    washer grinds while running
    as expected, the rear bearings were GONE!.. hard part was removing the inner tub from the outer one. hint... put the bolt in the shaft, tighten and pond the crap out of it ... takes time but the tub will come out, after that it's easy
    Other Parts Used:
    Washer Tub Bearing Washer Tub Bearing, Rear Gasket
    • mark from REEDSVILLE, WI
    • Difficulty Level:
      Easy
    • Total Repair Time:
      1- 2 hours
    • Tools:
      Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
    8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
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    Washer sounded like the 3:10 to Yuma was rolling through the laundry room when the washer hit the spin cycle.
    Google LG washing machine bearing replacement, you'll find a very informative video narrated by a British gentleman who will walk you through the steps. If you are even a slightly handy DIY'er this is an easy job although very time consuming. Take your time with reassembling the machine. I missed a couple of connections and while testing it out I flooded the laundry room. Could have been avoided if I had taken a picture of every individual item I disconnected.
    Other Parts Used:
    BEARING,BALL Washer Tub Bearing Gasket
    • Joseph from YUMA, AZ
    • Difficulty Level:
      Easy
    • Total Repair Time:
      More than 2 hours
    • Tools:
      Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
    4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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    Bad/worn drum bearings
    Followed the step-by-step video, you end up taking most of the washer apart. Got the drum out & apart, then ran into a wall with the bearings. Couldn't get them out - acted like the housings were frozen. Took all the pieces of the washer to the curb for garbage pickup.
    I never opened the replacement parts and will be returning them.
    Other Parts Used:
    Washer Tub Bearing, Rear BEARING,BALL Gasket
    • Michael from DUBLIN, OH
    • Difficulty Level:
      Difficult
    • Total Repair Time:
      More than 2 hours
    • Tools:
      Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
    3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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    Washing machine making terrible noise
    Service guy came
    all we thought was problem, was not. Need new maching soon.
    But as far as service
    Parts/this company
    I would definitely use them again
    Gal placing order was EXCELLENT
    ARRIVED in perfect time.
    Couldn’t use parts
    Return policy great
    Thanks to you all
    J murray Az
    Other Parts Used:
    BEARING,BALL Washer Tub Bearing
    • Jeanne from SAFFORD, AZ
    • Difficulty Level:
      Really Easy
    • Total Repair Time:
      30 - 60 mins
    3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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    grinding noise, at spin
    I followed instructions, posted by this site ln so doing, I saved at least $ 800. Dll`s
    Other Parts Used:
    Washer Tub Bearing Gasket
    • Joe from OCEANSIDE, CA
    • Difficulty Level:
      Really Easy
    • Total Repair Time:
      More than 2 hours
    • Tools:
      Screw drivers, Socket set
    2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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    Thank you for voting!
    Loud noise on spin cycle, berrings went bad
    Methodically, no hurry and it went smooth. Most difficult was removing old bearings and installing the new. Glad I had experience doing this. Would not recommend this as a first time experience replacing bearings. Replaced shocks in the process, glad we did, made a huge difference.
    Other Parts Used:
    BEARING,BALL Washer Tub Bearing Gasket Shock Absorber
    • Dennis from OVERLAND PARK, KS
    • Difficulty Level:
      A Bit Difficult
    • Total Repair Time:
      More than 2 hours
    • Tools:
      Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
    2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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    Thank you for voting!
    Very noisy when tub was spinning , tub bearings and seal were bad.
    Watched a YouTube video on how to disassemble the washer step by step, replace the bearings, and reassemble the machine. was very helpful.
    Other Parts Used:
    Washer Tub Bearing, Rear BEARING,BALL Gasket
    • Gerald from CENTRALIA, KS
    • Difficulty Level:
      A Bit Difficult
    • Total Repair Time:
      1- 2 hours
    • Tools:
      Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
    2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
    Was this instruction helpful to you?
    Thank you for voting!
      Customer Reviews
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      Model Cross Reference
      This part works with the following models:
      PartSelect Number: PS3522855
      Manufacturer Part Number: 4036ER2004A
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