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11741405-1-S-Whirlpool-WP3387134-Thermostat, Internal-Bias
11741405-1-S-Whirlpool-WP3387134-Thermostat, Internal-Bias 11741405-2-S-Whirlpool-WP3387134-Thermostat, Internal-Bias 11741405-3-S-Whirlpool-WP3387134-Thermostat, Internal-Bias https://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/RSDYZ2AA.gif

Thermostat, Internal-Bias

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PartSelect Number PS11741405
Manufacturer Part Number WP3387134
Manufactured by Whirlpool

A cycling thermostat is in tune with the temperature of your dryer and regulates it in order to maintain a certain temperature. This thermostat reaches a temperature of 155 degrees and will then turn off and then on again once it has dropped by 25 degrees. If your dryer is not giving off enough heat, is over-heating, is not turning on, or is having issues with the timer functionality, this could indicate an issue with the thermostat. The installation of the cycling thermostat is simple and the only tool required is a 1/4 inch nut driver (and gloves for safety).

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Crosley, Inglis, Amana, Admiral, Magic Chef, Jenn-Air.

This part works with the following products: Dryer, Washer Dryer Combo.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • No heat or not enough heat.
  • Takes too long to dry.
  • Will Not Start.
  • Timer will not advance.
  • Too hot.
  • Shuts off too soon.
  • Will not shut off.
  • Will not tumble.

Videos For installing this part.

Questions & Answers

Ask our experts a question on this part and we'll respond as soon as we can.

Most Helpful

Question:

I’m not sure how often this happens because it hasn’t happened to me or anyone I know before. But our dryer seems to be getting too hot during cycles. The clothes are way too hot when they come out, even on the lower settings. The heater element is still cycling on and off though which is think is normal. I’ve already checked the flow and the vents and everything seems to be square there. What would you recommend I check next. Do you think it’s the thermostat?

Kealan
Answer:

Hi Kealan, we recommend trying to dry a load with the vent unhooked from your dryer. If you are still experiencing these symptoms you could have a faulty dryer cycling thermostat WP3387134. I hope this helps!

7 people found this helpful.
Question:

My dryer is turning on and “working” but it is not heating properly. It is a gas dryer and it doesn’t seem to have a problem igniting. What should I check?

Leo
Answer:

Hi Leo, we recommend testing the coils 279834 to see if they are faulty. You can test them using a multi-meter tool. Please let us know if you have any further questions.

5 people found this helpful.
Question:

My dryer is taking too long to dry the clothes in it and I am not over filling it. My friend suggested a blockage but we already checked for that. We also tried using the different settings and the only one that seems to be buggy and not working is the highest setting. So do you have any suggestions of parts to check or tests to try to fix this.

Dylan
Answer:

Hi Dylan, we recommend testing the temperature coming from the dryer when on high heat, which should be about 110 (low end) to 160 (high end) degrees. If your dryer is cycling before it hits the 150 degrees, you most likely have a faulty cycling thermostat. This can be tested with a multi-meter with temperature. Best of luck with this repair!

5 people found this helpful.
Question:

Is there a way to test the thermal interna bias switch to be sure it is the problem

Jerry for model number Ler7646ez2
Answer:

Hello Jerry, thank you for contacting us. With a multimeter you can test the two large terminals on the thermostat, they should read closed for continuity and the two small ones should show an ohms resistance value. We hope this helps and good luck with the repair!

3 people found this helpful.
Question:

None of the components are testing bad. ? The thermal fuse, the high temp sensors, start switch, door switch, all are showing continuity or resistance. The heating element is good. I have only 2 choices left. The timer or the motor. The motor is last as it is hard to get to. The problems began when the timed dry cycle quit heating as it ran. So i used the auto-sense cycle and it worked great. Problem solved for 6 months. Yesterday i put the clothes in and set the timer and pushed start. Nothing! No hum, no buzz, nothing. Not on any cycle. Both parts left are expensive. So, is there a go, no go test for the motor? Would you be inclined to suspect the timer? How can i be sure it is one or the other? Thank you for the help.

Danny for model number EED4400WQ0
Answer:

Hello Danny, thank you for contacting us. It does not sound like an issue with the motor. It sounds like it would be the timer. The dryer timer is used to control the unit's cycles by regulating the length of time that power is directed to each setting. If it becomes faulty it could cause nothing to happen when you start a cycle or only work on certain cycles. Hope this helps!

Related Parts: Timer - 60Hz
2 people found this helpful.
Question:

I have a KitchenAid dryer that has stopped heating. I have checked thermal fuse and it shows conductivity. I checked the thermostat with a multi meter and the two red wires(large post) show conductivity but the two purple wires(small post) do not show any conductivity. This was done with the power cord unplugged. Are both the large and small post suppose to show conductivity?

paul for model number KEYE760WWH1
Answer:

Hi Paul, Thank you for the question.The two large terminals on the thermostat should read closed for continuity and the two small ones should show an ohms resistance value. We hope this helps and good luck with the repair!

2 people found this helpful.
Question:

My dryer is taking forever to dry, usually 80-90 minutes for a regular size load. It seems to get hot, but I'm not sure if it is shutting off too soon. I replaced the internal bias thermostat, but it's still not drying properly. I have also checked for blockages and cleaned the back of the dryer and the vent system as well. What part would likely need to be replaced next? Thanks!

Brandy for model number WED5100VQ1
Answer:

Hi Brandy, Thank you for the question. If the appliance is still getting heat but not drying in the proper amount of time you might not be getting enough heat. I suggest testing the element with a multi meter. PartSelect Number PS334313. The element should test between 9-12 ohms. If the you do not get the reading between 9-12 ohms then you have a defective element.If you check for continuity the meter will beep, if you do not get a beep then the element is defective. Hope this helps!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

How do you test thermostat internal-bias

vic for model number lgr4634pq0
Answer:

Hi Vic, Thank you for your inquiry. To test to see if the internal bias thermostat is working you will need to use a multimeter to check the continuity of the part. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

Is there a difference between the part number 3387134 that has a label that's says 250v and the original part that says on it 125v? Will it over heat with the higher voltage t stat?

Roger
Answer:

Hi Roger, Thank you for your question. That part number is the same part as the the one we have on our website. The manufacturer just updated the part number with a WP at the beginning. You should have no problems with this part. If you want to be sure that this part goes to your machine, try searching with the model number of your appliance and see the parts listed. Good luck with your repair.

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

I have a KitchenAid dryer that has stopped heating. I have checked thermal fuse and it shows conductivity. I checked the thermostat with a multi meter and the two red wires(large post) show conductivity but the two purple wires(small post) do not show any conductivity. This was done with the power cord unplugged. I have i done this correctly and if so is the thermostat good or bad?

Paul for model number KEYE760WWH1
Answer:

Hi Paul, Thank you for your inquiry. If the internal bias thermostat is not showing conductivity then you may have to replace it. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Question:

So i had too much heat and no air dry/ cool down. After inspection i found heater short to housing. I temporarily moved it back in place and adjusted the ceramic holder and reinstalled. Now i don’t have any readings from heater terminals to case but now i have no heat at all. ??

Steven for model number 11096272100
Answer:

Hi Steven, Thank you for your inquiry. There are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the thermal fuse, the internal bias thermostat, the heating element, the heater element connection wire, the high limit thermostat, the belt, the door catch and strike and the timer. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Most Recent

Question:

Could a bad thermostat cause my dryer to run too hot and not go in to air dry/ cool down “mode/cycle?

Steven for model number 11096272100
Answer:

Hi Steven, Thank you for the question. I suggest replacing the Thermostat, Internal-Bias,PartSelect Number PS11741405.A cycling thermostat is in tune with the temperature of your dryer and regulates it in order to maintain a certain temperature. Hope this helps!

Question:

Dryer runs a short while with heat and tumble, but then shuts off. How can i confirm problem is thermal fuse or thermostat, but not the motor causing overheating?

tony for model number LGR7647EQ2
Answer:

Hi Tony, Thank you for your inquiry. There are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the thermal fuse, the drive motor, the electronic control board, the timer, the door switch and the dryer catch and strike. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Question:

My dryer doesn't heat up. I replace the thermal fuse and it still doesn't get hot. So what is the problem?

Rene for model number LGR4634EQ3
Answer:

Hi Rene, Thank you for your question. There are a couple of parts that could cause the issue. I would suggest checking your m series coils, thermostats, radiant flame sensor, and your igniter. You can test all of those parts with a multimeter. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

Question:

My dryer cycles between 120 and 160f no matter what the temperature selection (high, medium or low). If I stick wires into the back of the temperature switch connector (contact with the only 2 wires violet and blue going to the switch) I measure 0.0 ohms for low, 6,200 ohms for medium (same resistance as the resistor jumped in), and infinite resistance for high heat. The wiring diagram says the resistance should be 10 ohms Max for low heat and 10,000 ohms min for high, so I think it is working. The internal bias thermostat reads 0 ohms across the big leads and 7,100 ohms across the small, which I believe indicate it is fine. What should I do now?

Roger for model number WED4800XQ1
Answer:

Hi Roger, Thank you for the question, I suggest checking the Thermal Cut-Off Kit,PartSelect Number PS334299.This dryer thermal cut-off kit includes one high-limit thermostat with a limit of 250 degrees Fahrenheit, and one thermal cut-off fuse (309 degrees).The thermal cut off turns off the heating component when the dryer overheats, ensuring there is a consistent level of heat at all times. Hope this helps!

Question:

This dryer works the whole cycle, but still the cloths are wet and cold. No heat. One time this had happened I had replaced fuse.

Abe for model number WED5530SQ0
Answer:

Hi Abe, Thank you for the question. Sounds like you need to replace the Thermal Fuse.When this fuse is faulty, your dryer will not start or it will not heat properly. This is a one-time fuse, meaning it cannot be re-set. It must be replaced when there is no longer continuity between the terminals. Hope this helps!

Related Parts: Thermal Fuse
Question:

Dryer stopped working. I replaced the thermal fuse. Dryer worked fine one time and stopped working again. I replaced the thermal fuse again and vacuumed the duct work inside the dryer and dryer pipe leading outside. Pipe is solid not Flex pipe. Again after one load the fuse blew. Could this be the heat sensor unit?

Jim Heinold for model number keys677ezo
Answer:

Hi Jim, Thank you for your inquiry. If your dryer is constantly blowing fuses, it sounds like an issue with a circuit breaker on your electrical box and you may have to have an electrician examine it. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Question:

My Roper dryer runs but doesn't heat. Will this correct the problem?

Roger
Answer:

Hello Roger, thank you for contacting us. Yes, that could cause this issue, there is usually a few of these in a dryer that can be tested with a multi-meter, as well you can check the heating element. Good luck with the repair!

Question:

My Crosley dryer will heat for twenty minutes than shut down the rest of the cycle. I can go and start the dryer again and it will repeat the process. I have installed a new fuse and coils. I now think it may be the internal thermostat. Any suggestions

Donna
Answer:

Hello Donna, thank you for contacting us. A cycling thermostat is in tune with the temperature of your dryer and regulates it in order to maintain a certain temperature. This thermostat reaches a temperature of 155 degrees and will then turn off and then on again once it has dropped by 25 degrees. If your dryer is not giving off enough heat, is over-heating, is not turning on, or is having issues with the timer functionality, this could indicate an issue with the thermostat. Hope this helps!

Question:

I already replaced the fuse.The door switch,but it will not start.So I wanted to check the timer.How.

Karen for model number RED4440VQ1
Answer:

Hi Karen, Thank you for the question, This dryer timer is used to control the unit's cycles by regulating the length of time that power is directed to each setting. You will need to use a multi meter if you wish to test the timer. Hope this helps!

Question:

How do you check the timer switch,everything else checked out good. My dryer will not start.

Karen for model number RED4440VQ1
Answer:

Hello Karen, thank you for contacting us. If the dryer will not start and nothing works the most common part for that would be the thermal fuse PS11741460. It is a safety mechanism that stops the flow of electricity to the heating element when a dryer overheats. When this fuse is faulty, your dryer will not start or it will not heat properly. This is a one-time fuse, meaning it cannot be re-set. It must be replaced when there is no longer continuity between the terminals. Hope this helps!

Related Parts: Thermal Fuse
Question:

My dryer would get too hot and overheat. I would need to turn it off to cool down and restart. We replaced the thermostat, and internal-bias and thermal cut-off kit(but my husband did not use the new red wire in the kit) dryer worked fine for a few minutes with heat and now no heat at all. Suggestions? Thanks

Tracie for model number LTE6234DQ0
Answer:

Hi Tracie, Thank you for your inquiry. If your husband did not use the red wire in the thermal cut-off kit, that may be causing the issue. I would also check the heater to see if that is working correctly as well. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 3.7 / 5.0, 147 reviews What's this?
 

1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Bob from SOUTH WINDSOR, CT

N o heat

Did not have a voltmeter to diagnose so bought several thermostats ,fuses, heating element .Replaced them all and the culprit was one of the the thermostats.Good investment and easy install.

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Thermostat, Internal-Bias
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Jon from SIMI VALLEY, CA

Pushing start button made buzzing sound but dryer didn't start.

The repair video provided for this model 110.97584810 gave erroneous info. It says to remove the back vent cover. The back on this model is not removable. I wasted an hour trying to remove back and top of dryer before discovering that the bottom front panel below the door pops off. Then the cover of the blower must be removed by removing two screws. The thermostat part can then be accessed and replaced as shown in the video. You'll need a 1/4" rachet to remove the screws as there isn't space to use a nut driver. Note that the statement in the video "This repair is done all from the back" is completely wrong. It is done entirely from the front. It can be done without even moving the dryer.

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Michael from LAKE FOREST, CA

Dryer not heating after 5-10 minutes

Remove the dryer door hinges from whichever side they are attached to.Remove the two plastic tabs on the opposite side from hinges. Tilt the front panel forward and lift to remove. All the parts are located in the bottom front side of dryer. Two screws remove coil valve cover, the coils slide upward for removal. One coil has two prongs, one has three, replace them in correct positions and reattach cover. One screw holds igniter in place, remove and unplug old one, carefully install new one so not to damage it. Thermostat has one screw holding it in, remove and unplug four wires, remember to plug each wire into new thermostat before removing the next one so you don't wire it incorrectly. Reinstall front panel of dryer and you're done.

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: More than 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: Matthew from INDIANAPOLIS, IN

Low heat, too long to dry, seal loose and deformed

Thermostats go right in after removing the back. Drum felt seal manufacturer's written instructions and diagram were not clear. The projecting part in the middle of the felt needs to cover the rear drum edge to prevent metal-to-metal contact of the spinning drum with the rear inside bulkhead. The PartSelect video that shows this cannot be viewed in my web browser, Chrome. User the Explorer browser to be able to see the videos to see how to do it. The front panel screw boltclips were loose. Tape them in place before repositioning the front panel. The time to repair included letting the seal adhesive/glue dry. Let it dry completely outdoors since it is stinky.

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: Ricardo from JOLIET, IL

Only cold was blowing

I take me less then 15 min easy to change parts all you need is a screwdriver and replace the parts save me some good money thanks.??

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Very Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: john from kennedy, NY

Our dryer wouldnt heat

it was very easy just had to take two nuts off and wires and reapply

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Thermostat, Internal-Bias
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Michael from LAKE FOREST, CA

Heat stopped after a few minutes

Read this site and saw many fixed the problem with a new thermostat. Ordered one and it was simple to replace. Just removed the back panel of the dryer and the thermostat is right there. Two screws to remove it, swap the four wiring plugs onto the new one, reinstall it. Unfortunately that didn't fix it so went back online and ordered the coil kit, another common solution. Removed front of dryer by removing the two screws the hold the lint trap onto the top and the two hinge plate screws on back of dryer to tilt the top up ward and backward. Removed two mounting screws on inside of dryer front and slip front panel upward to remove. The coils are right in the front down at the bottom left of dryer.Used an offset screwdriver to remove the two screws holding them in place. They slide right out, one has two prongs, one has three. Replace them with the new coils and put them back in place. Reassembled and everything works now. Grand total of eight screws removed and replaced, pretty simple. I'd recommend buying two or three parts if you see several parts as possibilities for a repair. Easier than doing it the dummy way like I did!

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Socket set
Customer: Dawn from BAYVILLE, NJ

Only had one level of height and the timer would not move.

I followed the video that you had for each part and they were both in the same area. Finished in 20 min. It did not fix the timer from moving again but I do have different heat levels.

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Very Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Socket set
Customer: kerry from OLEAN, NY

Dryer taking a long time to dry clothes.

There is a video that explains in full detail how to install. Unplug dryer. Remove screws to take back of dryer back off. Remove wires from part. Remove screw holding piece in place. Exchange old part for new part and screw back into place. Put wires back in part( they just snap into place) Put back to dryer back on with screws.

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Thermostat, Internal-Bias
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: charles from cuba, MO

Dryer not getting clothes dry

removed door and front panel this exposed all the control devices I changed out the thermostat ndn repaired the dryer

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: Mark from MILPITAS, CA

Timer not advancing irratic heating

Gas Dryer, bought used over ten years ago. Timer not advancing, so I came to the site to check prices on a timer. Looked at troubleshooting guide and determined problem was most likely thermal fuse and not timer. Because thermostat was also suggested as potential problem, I bought that also. Figured it was cheap enough that since I had to go through aggravation of pulling dryer out, I only wanted to do it once,Pulled dryer out and unplugged it. Turn off gas valve, dis connect gas line at dryer with crescent wrench. Pull back panel using screw driver. Replace both parts. Clean lint from dryer, sweep area behind dryer and reassemble. About 40 minutes. Tested dryer, could feel heat, so A-ok. But, not really. Timer still not advancing, heat erratic. So, ordered coil kit. Unplug dryer. Remove 2 short phillips screws under lint trap door , pry top up. 2 screws removed with nut driver, lift front up and off. I can see coils readily accessible on bottom left. Using stubby phillips screwdriver, remove and replace coils. Clean lint, reassemble. Dryer works great, and repair was actually easier than anticipated after watching video. Close call, because wife as naggin' for new dryer. If the coil kit didn't work, I would have lost the argument!

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers
Customer: Michael from HENRICO, VA

Not heating very well

I replaced the Thermostat, heating element and thermal fuse. Took 30 minutes and dryer is working fine

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Thermostat, Internal-Bias
Level of Difficulty: Very Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Ed from GRAFTON, IL

Clothes never completely dry

I watched the video then called them to order parts. They were VERY helpful & NICE. I had the parts the NEXT day. I followed the video instructions & it worked. They made my day! THANK YOU JoAnn & Teresa!

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Socket set
Customer: Rodger from DURYEA, PA

The dryer would not heat up

I unplugged the machine and removed the back panel with a 1/4" socket. I unplugged each thermostat in turn and pulled them out. The internal bias was a bit tricky to remove without breaking the tabs or wires. I then placed each thermostat back in and replaced all the wires. Not bad at all. Weird thing is the dryer heats just fine now, until I put the back panel on; once I replace the back panel, it will not heat.

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Very Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: JOHN from TULSA, OK

Dryer wouldn't start

removed the back panel as described in the tutorial. then removed the two parts as the repairman described, it took maybe 10 minutes beginning to end. Dryer works like a charm now.

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Model Cross Reference

This part works with the following models:

PartSelect Number: PS11741405
Manufacturer Part Number: WP3387134
Brand Model Number Description
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