Multi Rib Belt - 91-5/8 Inches WP33002535

I removed the control panel and front panel, then the brace holding in the drum. Then the drum came out easily.

Replacing the rollers is easy, use circlip pliers to remove the old circlips, replace the rollers, and reinstall the circlips.

After removing the idler pulley by removing one bolt and the spring, I replaced the idler roller, again with the circlip pliers. Then the idler arm bolts back to the motor mount, and the spring is replaced.

Reinstalling is easy - place the drum, have someone support it while you install the drum brace, then replace the front panel, then the control panel.

Did an internet search for parts for my older Maytag dryer. Landed on PartSelect and man I am glad I did! Entered my model number and boom! Complete schematics on the dryer, with part numbers. Also have diagnostic questions to point you in the right direction. Figured out what parts I needed, ordered via phone. Fantastic customer service. PartSelect also has excellent installation videos you can watch to assist. Took me a little over an hour to open up the dryer, replace the drum rollers, drum belt, idler roller and both front and rear felt seals. Buttoned dryer back up, hit the run switch and it purs like brand new. I cannot recommend PartSelect to highly. Great company, great customer service, quick shipping.

This is the dryer of a 28 year old Maytag laundry pair. I had replaced the glide kit 8-10 years before. Did them again because they were worn in half again but this time I added the 2 roller kits and the belt, really just guessing. I was surprised how full of dust and lint the inside was, especially the blower fan blades. I ordered the screw because the belt idler pulley assembly was very wobbly and I hoped that was the screw anchoring it to the motor housing was the problem but it wasn't. Turns out the threaded hole in the housing was stripped, due I guess to years of vibration. It was too tight to get a tap and dye in there so I drilled the hole out and replaced the screw with a bolt and nut and lock washer. Before drilling it out I tried a few strands of wire and JB Weld, like the trick with stripped wood holes where you break off toothpicks in the hole and fill with wood glue. But that stripped out too so I drilled and used the bolt. Turned out I didn't need that $7 screw. Probably should have known comparing it to the old one which looked the same after I cleaned it. Anyway, it sounds fine again.

We inherited this dryer three years ago upon purchasing our current house. At that time I found this website to purchase and install a couple of the baffles that were missing. This time, I checked the troubleshooting for my current problem and ordered all of the parts I felt I needed to resolve the problem. Once I received the parts, I followed the great how-to videos by Steve to disassemble the front of the dryer and remove the drum. I could not get to the repairs right away since the interior of the dryer was quite dirty and I took a lot of time to clean it out. Once I got to removing and replacing the drum rollers, idler pulley, rear drum felt shaft, and drum belt, everything went smoothly and was just as easy as Steve described in the videos. If I didn't have such a dirty machine interior, removing the old parts and installing the new parts would have taken less than an hour. I had to hold off on installing the front glide kit and front drum felt seal since I forgot to order two of each (I'll install these at a later date. I proceeded to putting everything back together and testing the dryer. The dryer now runs quietly and works great.

Changed motor

Disassembled dryer and replaced drum support roller and shaft. That took care of the noise but I still replaced the belt and idler pulley while I had it apart.

Followed the directions on the video. I recommend changing both tumbler wheels and idler pulley when you have unit apart as well as the drive belt. When I opened the dryer cabinet I immediately saw what my scraping noise was being caused by. A screw holding a baffle in the dryer tub had backed out and was scraping the cabinet wall on each rotated pass. Like I said, when you have the cabinet apart you might as well change parts that are going to fail. The repair was very easy and now I have many more years of service with my dryer. Had I opened the dryer before to see what parts I needed I would have seen the loose screw.

Okay, first of all, just let me say, if I can do this, ANYONE can. I am not very handy when it comes to things like this. I watched online videos and they will walk you through everything. I am so pleased with the results. Quiet as can be now. Before, we would have to shut the door when it was on because the scretching was so loud! The parts on this site were far more affordable than at my local repair store and they all came right to my doorstep. Overall it took me about 45 minutes and three beers :) Good luck!

Replaced damaged parts and recommended parts normally causing the problem. Dryer is working again like new. I expended $112 rather than $600 for a new equipment. Good deal!

i took off the door and the front of the drum and removed the drum. I removed the locking clip from idler pully and replaced and lubricated the shaft and slid the new idler pully on. I hung the belt over the back and put the drum back in and aligned the belt and turned by hand to get the belt in the correct position. Belt came off a couple of times because i think the belt was twisted. installed the front panel and the door, plugged the cord in and started it up and it was perfect.