WWSS2601KS3 Crosley Refrigerator - Instructions

Consult the exploded view of the Ice Container on this site. A likely cause the end plate (17) is worn. This plate connects the rotating corkscrew to the final plastic worm that pushes the ice into the crusher and thence to your waiting glass. The worm alone will not do the trick. To replace this plate, you need to take out all of the screws you can see, including the one that holds the spring for the crusher select bar.. First, the front cover, then the plate, and finally, locking ring from the worm and the black housing for the crusher. Now you can remove the whole worm assembly. Using a cloth or rubber insulator to protect it, unscrew the end screw and slide off the crusher teeth. Store on the table as a unit to facilitate re-assembly. Slide off the old bar and worm, put them back, and re-assemble. Takes a little dexterity to get the crusher select bar back, but not hard. Easy job.

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

Remove the bottom freezer drawer. Remove back metal evaporator panel. Wire in new defrost terminationT-stat. Reassemble evap panel. Good to go.

This was a replacement part, a simple snap in. What really impressed me was the PartSelect web site and the ease of locating the part and making sure it was the right one. Finally, the price beat out all the others. Since this tray looked like others on the same unit, I needed the details, the different view angles and dimensions to make sure it was correct. No other web site was even close in ease of use or in providing such details. I know I won't waste my time at PartSelect and I've always gotten the right part at the best price.

Support studs have an expansion fitting - center post has to be pushed through to allow expansion joint to collapse for removal. After installation, this post can be pushed in or pulled out to secure the stud and be the proper length to hold the bins.

None of this was obvious - an online tip from another member was invaluable.

Looked at video on how to remove and reinstall support and followed the instruct ions

REMOVED THE DRAWER, LIFTED OFF THE GLASS, REMOVED THE BROKEN SLIDE, AND PLACED THE NEW SLIDE IN THE PROPER SPACE. REPLCED THE GLASS SHELF TOP AND THE DRAWER. PEICE OF CAKE

So simple! I just slid the drawer out of the old frame, inserted it in the new one, and added the glass cover.

Remove the screws that hold the old valve to the side of the refrigerator. Next, detach each plastic tube and attach that tube to the same place on the new valve, and repeat (there are many valves). Afterward, I realized that many of the plastic tubes had become brittle and had mineral deposits, so I bought additional tubing for ice makers and replaced each tube, one at a time.

I unplugged the refrigerator and removed the back panel in the freezer. Here the coils were covered in a block of heavy frost. The coils needed to defrost, I allowed this to happen of the course of a few hours. Once this was done I used the wire cutters, cutting the two wires to the thermostat. Doing this I checked the continuity & got no reading. Having ordered the part at a more than reasonable price including 2 day delivery, I was ready to complete the repair. Stripping the thermostat wires connected the the freezer unit, I attached the two wires color to color to the new thermostat. Here I needed to insert both ends into the connector (butt end), crimping both sides. Making sure each end I'd secure. Do this for both sets of wires. Placing the new thermostat back on the the cooper coil (on the same one it was removed from), put the freezer back in place. Here I only screwed in two, in case I need to go back in. I plugged the refrigerator back in turn the settings back to default or factory. Allowed the refrigerator to come back up to temperature for 24-48 hours. I did these and I'm glad to say my 12 year refrigerator is working just like before.

I unscrewed the cover, took out old filter, put in new filter and replaced cover. End of story. Oh...don't forget to turn off the incoming water supply.

I broke off remainder of clip, and used phillip
screwdriver and pushed pin into wall. I lined up new support and pushed in peg to secure

I unplugged the fridge and removed the dispenser's drip plate. There are 3 screws holding the front fascia. I carefully slid the fascia up to removed it. I unplugged it from what looks like a circuit board from the dispenser. Remove 3 more screws that held the board exposing the ice dispenser's hole and the water actuator. To give myself a little more room to work, I disconnected the board from the fridge. Attempted to removed the water hose but i couldn't, but found out didn't need to. I used a longer philip's screwdriver to unscrew two very small plates that were holding the actuator in place. Need a magnitized screwdriver for this, my hands are too big to reach in there. It took about 15 minutes. NO extra parts or additional parts to order.

First I removed the cover for the filter.(long nut driver) then the two screws holding the filter housing, held the retaining plungers in, and removed the filter housing. Then reversed the process and put it all back together. Simple.

Pulled the unit out from the wall and with a flat head screwdriver and a utility knife I replaced the valve assembly. It was no problem at all.