WJRR4170G0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

I took the two screws out that was holding the bracket and hose in place. I then pulled the hose out and then had a little bit of a hard time taking off the bracket (it was plastic and felt if I bent it to hard it would break) wiggling it down to the end of the hose. Re inserted the hose attached bracket, and I was done.
It would have cost me a lot more then $20.00 to have a repair man come in and fix it.
Love the service, delivered in two days.
Will use them again.

Pulled off front cover of machine. Unplugged unit. Used a channel lock (water pump pliers) to squeeze the hose clamp on the suction hose. Pulled hose off of pump suction. Did same for discharge hose. Some standing water came out onto floor of unit. Unscrewed 2 screws from base using nut driver. Pulled the 2 wires off of the stabs of pump. Re-installed new pump in reverse order. Unit back on line in 15 minutes, and works fine.

R & R drain hose

The staff at parts Select are one of a kind, my order came before expected. Thanks Parts Select

I checked the motor,it was bad I was pulling to 20 amps too much. The washer was still not working and the motor was bad so I checked the lid switch for continuity. The switch was a magnet type so with the lid down you should have continuity. In other words, a closed circuit. When the lid is opened, you should have a open circuit, Which would show no continuity. An open circuit means a break in the circuit. To change hinge bushings, raise lid, remove the screws on the outside of the lid, remove hinge, remove lid, insert new hinge bushings, place hinge through lid into bushings, and then put the screws back into the lid. If you followed these steps you should be done.

This job did not take much longer than 15 minutes if that.1st take the cord or twine and loop it under 2 paddles of the agitator.( there is a small groove under each of the paddles that has enough space to put the cord in) Pull up on the cord to remove the agitator. 2nd. Under the agitator is a bolt that secures the agitator coupling. Remove that bolt. Keep bolt(you may want to replace this bolt if rusted and worn. Mine was still ok so I reused it.) 3rd pull up on Agitator coupling to remove. Teeth were worn on Coupling, So discard. 4th Insert new coupling, replace bolt to secure coupling. finally slide agitator back over coupling till locks back in place. ....Done.

watched supplied on-line video

replace knop

Remove clip, remove knob. Replace knob replace clip

Just popped new knob on shaft , took about 1 min.

DISCONNECT POWER----1.- No pump sound when energized but I know it energized as the coil became a magnet. 2.- You need a drain pan to catch the water from the lower tub when the drain hose is disconnected from the pump. 3.- Water pump or channel lock pliers needed to remove the spring clamps on inlet and outlet from pump. 4.- Remove the 2 hold down bolts and the plug in power connection and the pump comes out very easily. 5.- On my pump I found a plastic tie wrap lodged in the pump impeller vanes-- this caused the pump either not to work at all or cause a cavitation effect caused the water in the tub not to drain completely. 6.- Since I had already purchased the new pump I installed the new pump and cleaned the old one to keep as a spare-- probably never going to need it though.7.- On the large diameter drain hose ( pump inlet ) I decided to use a auto hose clamp instead of the original spring clamp because the area to work on this pump is very cramped and getting the original spring clamp back on was very difficult. The hose clamp made it very easy and the seal was just fine. 8.- The new pump functions perfectly- PARTS SELECT delivered a quality OEM product and I am extremely satisfied with their normal delivery which was 2 days because the warehouse was only 150 miles from me.

My washer didn't come with a fabric softener dispenser. I found one on your website and purchased (the part arrived in two days). I popped the top off the agitator, lined up the notches on the fabric softener dispenser with the inside notches on the agitator and pressed down. Voila! Less than 5 minutes, no tools needed.

I pushed out the pin that held the old knob in place with a thin flat head screwdriver. Old knob came right off. Put on the new one and pushed the new pin in with the screwdriver again and it was good to go.

I searched the internet for the problem resolution & purchased $40 of the parts before I disassembled the machine. This was to minimize the downtime. Not one of the internet sites recommended changing the shaft & mode shifter assy so all the parts I ordered were not needed. Once I determined the correct part I had the reorder & pay expediting fees to deliver next day.

After watching the YouTube video on how to disassemble the GE Profile washing machine the repair was relatively simple.

replaced cycle selector knob. received part in less than 24 hrs.

Step one: Order the Belt and the $10.00 tool that fits on the motor sprocket to keep the belt from slipping off. Step 2: Lean the washer back at about a 45 degree angle, you may have to disconnect the water lines to achieve this. This puts the machine in a good position when you sit in front of it as you are installing the belt. Step 3: Install the tool over the motor sprocket leaving the grooves exposed. The belt fits in these grooves. Step 4: Slip the belt over the motor sprocket first and than the large sprocket wheel behind. This will take a little muscle as the belt is considerably smaller. After a couple of attempts at rotating the big sprocket the belt kept slipping off. I than took a plastic tie and strapped it around the belt and the big sprocket wheel, this kept the belt from slipping off as I rotated the wheel. Once the belt is on snip off the plastic tie and you are home free.